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[mdjak1]

I was charging a new to me 2017 FXS recently and when I unplugged the 110V cable, I noticed it was quite warm. Especially closer to the charge port. So today I rode the bike to about 70% and came home to charge it. After about 3-4 hours of charging and the SOC showing 94%, I used an infrared thermometer to check the temperature of the charge cable. At the plug, I got a reading of 150 deg F. The cable close to the plug was about 122 deg F. AFAIK, this is the 9 foot long OEM charge cable. Not some random computer cable. Has anyone noticed this with their Zeros before? Is this something I should be concerned about? I assume the charge cable uses 14 awg wires inside. The manual says the draw should only be 11-12 amps maximum. So that wire size should be acceptable. Any thoughts on this?

[Richard230]

My factory charging cable that I use to recharge my 2018 S gets warm at both ends of the cable, but only about 80 degrees F. You might want to make sure that all of your male and female connectors on both ends of your cable and at the power port on your bike are clean and free of any corrosion.

[mdjak1]

Will definitely look into the charge plug.   Maybe even try a newer, shorter, clean computer cable. 

I was reading the thread about the FXS on board charger going bad and was wondering if that might be an issue.

[ESokoloff]

You might have a heat damaged plug connection like I did. 
https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=10514.0

[mdjak1]

You might have a heat damaged plug connection like I did. 
https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=10514.0

I looked at the plug and it looks in perfect condition.   The bike does have 12k miles.  It has been ridden in the rain and stored outside.   The plastics were badly faded but it doesn't look like there is any damage to the plug.

[DonTom]

I was charging a new to me 2017 FXS recently and when I unplugged the 110V cable, I noticed it was quite warm. Especially closer to the charge port. So today I rode the bike to about 70% and came home to charge it. After about 3-4 hours of charging and the SOC showing 94%, I used an infrared thermometer to check the temperature of the charge cable. At the plug, I got a reading of 150 deg F. The cable close to the plug was about 122 deg F. AFAIK, this is the 9 foot long OEM charge cable. Not some random computer cable. Has anyone noticed this with their Zeros before? Is this something I should be concerned about? I assume the charge cable uses 14 awg wires inside. The manual says the draw should only be 11-12 amps maximum. So that wire size should be acceptable. Any thoughts on this?

if you have used that cable with 120 VAC a lot, try changing it to a new one of the same type.  At many hours at 12 amps, there could be high resistance in the AC cord and that will heat up the cable as it reduces your charge rate. Those cables will age after a lot of use at 12 amps.  If you can charge at 240 VAC, it will greatly reduce the current in that cable and then perhaps even that cable will be okay at 240 VAc. A lot less heat at higher voltages on Zeros because the OBC will lower the current draw by half to get the same wattage.

-Don-  Reno, NV

[mdjak1]

I was charging a new to me 2017 FXS recently and when I unplugged the 110V cable, I noticed it was quite warm. Especially closer to the charge port. So today I rode the bike to about 70% and came home to charge it. After about 3-4 hours of charging and the SOC showing 94%, I used an infrared thermometer to check the temperature of the charge cable. At the plug, I got a reading of 150 deg F. The cable close to the plug was about 122 deg F. AFAIK, this is the 9 foot long OEM charge cable. Not some random computer cable. Has anyone noticed this with their Zeros before? Is this something I should be concerned about? I assume the charge cable uses 14 awg wires inside. The manual says the draw should only be 11-12 amps maximum. So that wire size should be acceptable. Any thoughts on this?

if you have used that cable with 120 VAC a lot, try changing it to a new one of the same type.  At many hours at 12 amps, there could be high resistance in the AC cord and that will heat up the cable as it reduces your charge rate. Those cables will age after a lot of use at 12 amps.  If you can charge at 240 VAC, it will greatly reduce the current in that cable and then perhaps even that cable will be okay at 240 VAc. A lot less heat at higher voltages on Zeros because the OBC will lower the current draw by half to get the same wattage.

-Don-  Reno, NV

I do have access in my garage to a J1772 charger for my Chevy Bolt.   So I guess I could order the J1772 adapter and charge at 240 volts.   However, for just $10 I could order a computer cable off eBay or elsewhere, that is 14 awg compared to the OEM cable that is 16 awg.   I think I will try that first since it is a much cheaper route. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6ft-14awg-gauge-Heavy-Duty-PC-Printer-Power-Cord-Cable/293025781919?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Also, I think when I charge next time, I will unscrew the other portion of the plug from the bike and see if the wires behind it are getting hot too. 

[DonTom]

I do have access in my garage to a J1772 charger for my Chevy Bolt.   So I guess I could order the J1772 adapter and charge at 240 volts.

Does your J-1772 plug into a 14-50R?

If so, another  option is to make your own cable. 14-50P to your Zero cord. You could probably use the same cord that has been getting hot. Just snap off the 120 VAC plug and put on a 14-50P and plug it into 240 VAC.

No need to wire the neutral, (middle bottom flat pin of the 14-50P). You can leave that blade out of the plug. Just have both 240 VAC (left and right blade) and ground (green to the odd looking one of the four).

Your charger is more efficient at 240 VAC, so even the charger will work cooler with 240 VAC.

FWIW, I almost never charge with 120 VAC. Only when I have no other choice but I normally do have the choice.

-Don-  Reno, NV

[ESokoloff]

...............

Also, I think when I charge next time, I will unscrew the other portion of the plug from the bike and see if the wires behind it are getting hot too.

In my case the plug wasn’t the (initial) issue but rather the the crimped wire connection on 1/4” Sta-kon (brand name) flag (90°) electrical connectors.

For me, the fix was to get away from these connectors as I don’t trust them past 7.5 amps.
The plug I found uses direct wire connection via built in compression terminals.

I believe Don is correct in that the built in chargers will run on voltages between 120-240 but at a set wattage so if applied voltage is doubled, amperage will half & connections will run substantially cooler. 

[Crissa]

I replaced my OEM cable with a 12ga cable.

Cables do wear out; they're being twisted and flexed as we move them around.

-Crissa

[DonTom]

I replaced my OEM cable with a 12ga cable.

Cables do wear out; they're being twisted and flexed as we move them around.

-Crissa

The hotter they get, the more the resistance goes up. After so much of that, it's permanent high resistance, so then it even gets hotter and hotter the more it is used as your charge rate goes down as the power is lost in that heat.

But yeah, moving them around a lot probably adds to such. But it's mostly from the heat making the resistance higher than when  the cable was new.

-Don-  Reno, NV

[ESokoloff]

I replaced my OEM cable with a 12ga cable.

Cables do wear out; they're being twisted and flexed as we move them around.

-Crissa

Where did you find a 12awg cord?
I’ve not found one & I think the reason is because both ends have connections only rated at 15amp so what’s the reason to have a cord rated higher (20amp)?
Might behoove us to source field installed  connectors along with 12awg cord & make our own.

When I changed my IEC320 C14 socket I also purchased a new 6’ hospital grade C14x15-5 cord. A few thousand miles ago I noticed that the neutral side on the 15-5 has heat damage on the site to blade crimp connection so I’m not trusting the crimp connections & will eventually have to cut the plug off & replace with field installed type with screw clamp connections. 

Also worth noting is I found that the contact patch on the C14 plug/socket can be increased significantly by shaving off the last few mm of rubber from the end of the C14 plug (also removing the same few mm from the plugs exterior where it insulrts into the socket.

[Richard230]

About once a year my daughter's stock charging cable welds its male contacts to the female contacts of the years-old 50 foot 14 gauge extension cord that she connects the cable to. Since her husband never likes to buy anything new, he just cuts off the end of the cables and attaches new male and female connectors to the cords, which works for another year.     Eventually, I imagine that the cables will not be long enough to reach the wall outlet. 

I might add that when I visit my daughter I bring over my own heavy-duty 8-foot long Yung Li 12 AGW (3.3 square mm) rated for 300V and 105 degrees C charging cable that I purchased off of Amazon to recharge my Zero.   

[Crissa]

Where did you find a 12awg cord?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078V9K14V/
D'Addario Bass Amplifier cable.  But the description recently changed and says 18ga on it so now I'm a bit annoyed.

I just bought two more (ironically, one is really going to be used for a bass amplifier!) so I'll tell you if they changed the cables inside.

About once a year...

This is why I put in this thing called a 'switch', to turn off the outlet so that won't happen.  Ever. ^-^

-Crissa

[ESokoloff]

Where did you find a 12awg cord?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078V9K14V/
D'Addario Bass Amplified cable.  But the description recently changed and says 18ga on it so now I'm a bit annoyed.

I just bought two more (ironically, one is really going to be used for a bass amplifier!) so I'll tell you if they changed the cables inside.

..............

-Crissa

Well I’ll be!!
Per the discption I found, yes these are 12awg

But this discussion has me thinking of making my own plug again.

I think the 14awg wire will be Ok for what I need (6’ of cord) & that the weak link is the crimp connections.
I found these  https://www.webberelectronics.com/product/pa130100rbk-right-left-iec-lock-locking-rewireable-iec320-c13-right-left-angled-connector IEC C13 “rewireable” plug that also feature a locking ground arrangement (not that it’s needed).  They come it straight as well as 90°  The screw down clamps can be checked/tightened from time to time unlike a conventional crimp type.