Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[2020_SRS_Commuter]

Yep thanks I will try those next. First I need my money back so I can spend it again.
Perfectbrakes was pretty cool, they answered quickly and there is a printed return label already in the shipping box.

[lunarx]

Just a quick note, my disks arrived today from EBC and they are NOT replacements. These are completely flat and don't have the offset inner part to attach to the wheel. Very frustrating. I've contacted them for a refund and shipping label. Don't buy MD1187C . The EBC rep was wrong.

This must be because of your case....
New update (in Red) , in the on-line catalog (see Pg 30)
https://ebcbrakes.com/assets/Flip-Catalogues/EBC_UK_MC_CAT_202a_July_2021/EBC_2021_UK_MC_CAT_ISSUE_202a_FLIP_July_COMP.html

Nice to see EBC acting so quickly.

[Demoni]

Good luck on the hunt for higher quality aftermarket rotors.

Rotor manufacturers that build products to a low price point can cut corners when it comes to the formula and quality of the steel used. Metal that needs to be flat and stay that way should go through a stress relieving process. Not saying that is the issue here but I have never seen surface cracking on quality discs.

Since you mentioned that you rarely use your front brakes it seems unlikely they are warping from heat. Unless your pads are dragging on the rotor due to the piston seals being dirty. Do you have any photos of the braking surface or the outer lip? A lip that is showing signs of bluing is getting too hot.

Did you fully bed your rotors and pads in when the bike was new? What about when you replaced the rotors?
It is possible to unevenly bed in your rotors, this can cause localized hot spots that may lead to warping.

You might want to try to clean and lube the rotor buttons, one or more of them could be seized. Will have the same symptoms as a warped rotor as this prevents the rotor from properly aligning itself with the brake pads. Ideally the buttons should spin freely. Most stock rotors are "semi floating" and use a spider washer on the back side to limit the amount of side to side movement.

[Richard230]

I have had problems in the pasts with pulsating rotors on both a 2005 Triumph Bonneville and my 2009 BMW F650GS. However, the rotors were not warping, as checked with a dial indicator. Apparently, they had developed an uneven deposit on the surface that resulted in uneven braking that felt like a warped rotor, especially when coming to a stop. Carefully, cleaning the disc with alcohol and a plastic dish scrubbing pad brought my braking back to normal again. But the problem did return after a few thousand miles. Eventually, I managed to find the right combination of replacement pads and quality aftermarket rotors and haven't had a problem since then. If I recall correctly, I think using both EBC pads and discs was the solution to that issue.

[2020_SRS_Commuter]

That's a good point about the pads. I'll buy new ones just to be sure. But I don't think any hot spot caused it because I seriously don't use the brakes much, and I'm very very easy on them. I keep myself entertained at stops by slowing early and gradually, and trying not to have to put my feet down waiting for it to turn green. Cant balance the bike when its still but I get as close as I can. 100% regen does most or all of that.

The pads aren't dragging anymore than they normally do. The wheel turned as easily as you would expect.

A stuck rotor button is probably not the issue because the warpage is across about 45 degrees of rotation, and the rest is true.

[Richard230]

That's a good point about the pads. I'll buy new ones just to be sure. But I don't think any hot spot caused it because I seriously don't use the brakes much, and I'm very very easy on them. I keep myself entertained at stops by slowing early and gradually, and trying not to have to put my feet down waiting for it to turn green. Cant balance the bike when its still but I get as close as I can. 100% regen does most or all of that.

The pads aren't dragging anymore than they normally do. The wheel turned as easily as you would expect.

A stuck rotor button is probably not the issue because the warpage is across about 45 degrees of rotation, and the rest is true.

I am one of the easiest brakers around and my disc brakes still developed hot spots. But I do think it was because of some sort of incompatibility between the material brake pads and the material of the brake discs that happened to be specified by the manufacturer. However, it did take about 10K miles for the problem to arise. Finally, I might add that 15 years ago I wrote to the service guy at Rider Magazine regarding my disc pulsating problem. He claimed that it was likely due to my easy braking habits which caused the hot spots on the disc. He recommended braking hard at times to rub the disc clean. That advice always made me scratch my head, but so far that seems to have helped. Either that, or I have just been lucky with my choice of replacement pads and rotors.

[Crissa]

Braking hard will scrub off oxide layers that accrete.  Perhaps oxides create hot spots?

It's always good practice to throw some emergency braking into your routine, anyhow.  Just like U-turns and swerves, you don't get better (or even keep up) if you're not doing them.

-Crissa

[Richard230]

Braking hard will scrub off oxide layers that accrete.  Perhaps oxides create hot spots?

It's always good practice to throw some emergency braking into your routine, anyhow.  Just like U-turns and swerves, you don't get better (or even keep up) if you're not doing them.

-Crissa

True. 

[2020_SRS_Commuter]

I bought the parts as NervEasy described. EBC rotors, new EBC pads, the Yamaha bolts.
Post back when I get all the kit together and compare it to the old.

[NervEasy]

Ok, succes! those should fit.

[DesignerDan]

EBC rotors, Yamaha bolts, Galfer organic pads…

So far so good. The organic pads have a lot less bite but modulation is really good. Regen is strong enough to do most of my braking anyway so think the organic pads are better suited for my needs. Will report back after a few thousand miles.

[lunarx]

EBC rotors, Yamaha bolts, Galfer organic pads…

So far so good. The organic pads have a lot less bite but modulation is really good. Regen is strong enough to do most of my braking anyway so think the organic pads are better suited for my needs. Will report back after a few thousand miles.

NICE 
The Gold Carriers look good.

Now we need to see what NervEasy recommended:

The TRW ones have a very cool blueish titanium colored inner part. which I think would be pretty with the blue SR/S or the Mint SR/F.

Let's see those pics NervEasy 

[stevenh]

That's a good point about the pads. I'll buy new ones just to be sure. But I don't think any hot spot caused it because I seriously don't use the brakes much, and I'm very very easy on them. I keep myself entertained at stops by slowing early and gradually, and trying not to have to put my feet down waiting for it to turn green. Cant balance the bike when its still but I get as close as I can. 100% regen does most or all of that.

The pads aren't dragging anymore than they normally do. The wheel turned as easily as you would expect.

A stuck rotor button is probably not the issue because the warpage is across about 45 degrees of rotation, and the rest is true.

I am one of the easiest brakers around and my disc brakes still developed hot spots. But I do think it was because of some sort of incompatibility between the material brake pads and the material of the brake discs that happened to be specified by the manufacturer. However, it did take about 10K miles for the problem to arise. Finally, I might add that 15 years ago I wrote to the service guy at Rider Magazine regarding my disc pulsating problem. He claimed that it was likely due to my easy braking habits which caused the hot spots on the disc. He recommended braking hard at times to rub the disc clean. That advice always made me scratch my head, but so far that seems to have helped. Either that, or I have just been lucky with my choice of replacement pads and rotors.

I've been dealing with surging on the front disks on my SR/F for a long time.  Yesterday I did about a half dozen "hard stops" from a decent speed.  That seems to have solved my problem at least for now.  I, like you, pretty much never use the brakes since I rely on 100% progressive regen, I'll try to remember to use them hard from time to time to see if it keeps the pulsing away.

Steve

[2020_SRS_Commuter]

Just wanted to follow up to thank everyone for their help. I wanted to wait a good while to see what the final results were.

The problem is solved. EBC brakes continue to work just fine. They did have a bit of a weird feel at first until everything bedded in, as if I could feel each one of those milled slots in them passing through the pad's grip. But it went away and they are smooth as butter now.

ThankS!!!