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[MVetter]

it was off-camera sheesh none of you questioned how the pizza magically appeared in my hands

*mod edit:  check your capslock key

[MVetter]

We can accept there was a pizza on the passenger pillion that disappeared and reappeared whilst making vaguely 'italian' hand gestures, but the second you imply there was additional hardware is where I mash the report button to moderators, meow.

*mod edit:  check your capslock key... again. Zero-punctuation impulse seems to be malfunctioning as well.

[Crissa]

I don't think I have ever had 'pure clean sine wave' in my home power.

-Crissa

PS:  Hey, I asked how you got it there!

[NEW2elec]

it was off-camera sheesh NONE OF YOU QUESTIONED HOW THE PIZZA MAGICALLY APPEARED IN MY HANDS

Just look at your avatar picture you obviously are a master of the dark arts so no I didn't question it.
LOL

[DonTom]

I don't think I have ever had 'pure clean sine wave' in my home power.

Where does your home power come from?

If you have PG&E it should be a clean perfect sinewave, not counting a few  millivolts of noise that you won't even be able to notice. Home generators vary like crazy. My RV generator is quite good, not perfect, but good enough to use to charge of my Zero (at ~2.3 KW)  on RV trips in areas that have no juice.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[DonTom]

We can accept there was a pizza on the passenger pillion that disappeared and reappeared whilst making vaguely 'italian' hand gestures, but the second you imply there was additional hardware is where I mash the report button to moderators.

Either additional  hardware or that pizza cooker had a DC  motor.

Or the entire thing was BS. We can only guess.

You have to tell us.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[MVetter]

It's not BS. The prototype hardware we used is larger than we want any sort of production units to be so we didn't put them in the foreground. You can hear them 'booting up' when I plug the CCS gun into my bike; listen for the series of relays clicking on and then fans powering on.

[Electric Cowboy]

AC & DC are not equivalent in resistance heating equipment, DC will invariably cause an AC heating system to melt sadly. I know, I have tried it. If you don't believe me, go get an electric tea kettle, plug it into a 116vdc Zero, and heat a pot of water, before you know it, it will be on the floor with the melted metal and plastic.

We do have a small 4kW AC inverter, 5kW peak, in the cable here. We can pair them up for 8kW/10kW as well.

[Electric Cowboy]

Also, instead of speculating, why not just watch the videos where we explain it all? I know pulling things from thin air is a favorite past time of this forum, but when the data is available... why not use it?

[DonTom]

AC & DC are not equivalent in resistance heating equipment, DC will invariably cause an AC heating system to melt sadly.

That is if there is a lot of inductance in the heating element. Then the AC impedance is different from the DC resistance. The heating element must be a tight wound coil for there to be such a difference at 60 HZ compared to DC.

Note that Wikipedia says:

"For alternating electric current, RMS is equal to the value of the direct current that would produce the same average power dissipation in a resistive load."

Your heating element had to be an inductive load.

IOW, the resistance (impedance) on AC was a lot higher than on DC in ohms. So it will get a lot hotter with DC because then you have more watts. It could not have been a straight solid heating element for there to be such a difference.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[DonTom]

Also, instead of speculating, why not just watch the videos where we explain it all?

Why bother? We already "speculated" that an inverter was used, which was correct. A 5KW inverter. I think that is the size of the inverter in my RV but it could be a 4 KW. I have not looked at it for a while because it is located in an area where it cannot be seen.

But your 5 KW inverter is overkill to cook a pizza. Inverters are more efficient if they are rated  for  just a little above what is required and not a lot more. You could probably cook another pizza or two if you used no more inverter than necessary.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[NEW2elec]

Well I knew what you were using to make the little oven work.  Because I watched your videos of that huge wagon load of electronics being pulled around.
I asked you what the hell it was and what the hell it did at that point.  You never responded.

Now does this thing pull power from any EV other than an Energica?
That's a yes or no.  Because at this point that is the only EV you have mentioned that it works with.

I know you really want to work with Energica and that's fine but you need to realize that:
A.  There aren't that many Energica owners at this point.
B.  A Tesla with 100kWh battery is a nice option for a few days of no power but 13kWhs won't even power a refrigerator for 2 weeks.
C.  The early Tesla power walls couldn't be used when the the house lost grid power because it could hurt a lineman working to restore power. (From Fully Charged)  You needed to have the house wired to safely do this.   Does the Siphon have this fail safe approved?
D.  A natural gas backup is a far superior option for about $2k if the house uses NG.  If not there will be no AC no Heat and no hot water anyway as those pull far too much power for either option.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Generac-PowerPact-7500-Watt-LP-6000-Watt-NG-Standby-Generator-with-Automatic-Transfer-Switch/1000815538?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-sol-_-bing-_-pla-_-240-_-1000815538-_-0&kpid&placeholder=null&msclkid=85d969a14aeb16f90f3a36d04a6ef6b7&gclid=85d969a14aeb16f90f3a36d04a6ef6b7&gclsrc=3p.ds

E.  If you drain your EV, and then if you have no other vehicle, now your stuck until the power returns.

Go to the 20:00 mark for the "won't work during a power outage" explanation.




If you make a teaser you have to end it with a reveal then there isn't any confusion.

[Crissa]

C) That's a stupid excuse.  Why have a battery that can't unplug itself (or be unplugged) from the grid?  My computer UPS does that just fine without barbecuing linemen.

-Crissa

[ESokoloff]

AC & DC are not equivalent in resistance heating equipment, DC will invariably cause an AC heating system to melt sadly. I know, I have tried it. If you don't believe me, go get an electric tea kettle, plug it into a 116vdc Zero, and heat a pot of water, before you know it, it will be on the floor with the melted metal and plastic.

We do have a small 4kW AC inverter, 5kW peak, in the cable here. We can pair them up for 8kW/10kW as well.

First off I enjoy the videos you guys are putting out.

I’m thinking that the AC appliance that melted on you while using the same voltage DC was not pure resistive or a control (thermostat &/or safety) did not like the DC.
A pure resistive load doesn’t care if the voltage is AC or DC (providing voltage is within range).

Induction load is on AC only & will not work (last long) on DC as the current is limited by induction & without that resistance excessive/destructive current will flow.

[Electric Cowboy]

Nobody cares about the technicalities of why one appliance catches fire and the other doesn't.

These are foolish things to say. You want ac for ac appliances so no matter what nerdy reason there is, nothing catches on fucking fire. Nobody cares about technicalities, they only care that their shit doesn't burn down.

This is the biggest group of negative Debbie Downers I have run across in a while. Sorry you guys don't think powering anything off of any electric vehicle is cool.

Also to the person asking about what evs this will work on, watch the other videos including the one where I power my house off a leaf, and explain manual and automatic transfer switches.

Posting in this forum is starting to seem like a mistake.