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[ESokoloff]

About 15 months back I was seeing that my charge socket was heat damaged. 
I contacted Hollywood Electric to see about procurement of a replacement (I figured OEM would insure the highest quality as I was/am leery of standard crimp electrical connections when the amps exceed 8 amps. 
I’ve seen plenty of heat damaged connections during my HVAC carrier.

Harlan said that I was (just) under the warranty period & that it would be covered. 
It’s was replaced but that didn’t stop my worries for a reoccurrence.

Gradually I’ve felt the back side of the socket becoming quite warm during charging.
Well, a few weeks ago when I went to plug in the charge cord to the socket, to my dismay I found one of the sockets pin stuck in the socket of the cord!!!!
I plugged in & monitored the temperature.
Turned out it was acceptable so I was able to continue commuting while I sourced a more robust solution & had time to replace. 

I found this plug on Amazon
Viborg AC 250V 10A IEC320 C14 Panel Mount Plug Adapter Power Connector Socket Screw Mount 3 Pins Inlet Male Power Plug Socket Audio Grade (Rhodium Plated, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6M3CHF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_Kb-AFb9X67HXG

I like that it has compression screws rather then the usual 1/4” crimped flag connectors. 
I found that this plug is a bit larger in the dimensions that mate to the bikes frame so had to remove material as necessary to fit.
I was able to cut the last 1.5” of the cable leading from the old connector & then cleaned up the individual wire strands with some sand cloth.
I pre positioned several layers of heat stink (note that the OEM used glue lined heat shrink but I didn’t have that type so used sealant injected on the wire end before shrinking to help insure no water migration).
I was able to double up the wire into this sockets junction points.
I inserted a small piece of copper between the setscrew & the wire to protect the wire as well as distribute the pressure from the setscrew. I was careful while tightening the screws as I had read a review stating that the Phillips head strips easily.
Getting this socket to fit into the bikes frame was a challenge due to the fact that the wires go back from the plug, not 90° like the OEM.
I abandoned trying to get the M3 .5x8mm screws to work & instead ordered m3 .5x25mm threaded rod as well as flanged m3 .5 nuts from McMaster Carr (delivered to my door less then 21 hrs later).  NOTE that the nuts require a 5.5mm driver that will have to be hollow if rods aren’t shortened or standoffs used).

[Edit: NOTE 7/32” is close enough to work as a driver or in my case, box wrench]

Space is VERY limited & this work can be frustrating so not a task for the weak at heart. 

I used blue thread locker on the rods & fully screwed then in via dbl nutting.
I found a small tube that I put over the screws so I didn’t have to struggle screwing down all that distance. 

It turned out well & Im hoping this ends my overheating charge cord/socket situation.
 

[Crissa]

Nice!

Do you plug and unplug hot alot?

-Crissa

[Shadow]

FWIW 38k miles of DSR that C14 kettle socket (and plug) melted through a few cords. Anecdotally people at Zero are aware that socket is a hot mess for the N. America market (120Vac double the amperage of 240Vac). It's been completely deleted from SR/S and SR/F correct?... and so problem solved for the long term. If it fails under warranty on S/DS/FX get it handled under warranty. Out of warranty just try something new eh, let us know if your re-work lasts 

[ESokoloff]

Nice!

Do you plug and unplug hot alot?

-Crissa

By this you mean plug an energized cord into the bikes socket thus subjecting it to arching due to the sudden inrush current connection &/or break that connection thus subjecting the socket pins to further arching?

If so, no.... I’m not that silly. 

The issue with this specific socket type is it’s max amperage rating is 10 & it needs to be 15 (@ a min.) for 120v.
Its not up to the task it’s asked to perform.

As I said before, I don’t trust crimp on electrical connections much past 7.5 amps.
The exception to that is air conditioning/refrigeration compressor motor terminals but that application involves plenty of heat sucking mass that’s influenced by oil &/or refrigerant to wick away excess heat. 

[ESokoloff]

FWIW 38k miles of DSR that C14 kettle socket (and plug) melted through a few cords. Anecdotally people at Zero are aware that socket is a hot mess for the N. America market (120Vac double the amperage of 240Vac). It's been completely deleted from SR/S and SR/F correct?... and so problem solved for the long term. If it fails under warranty on S/DS/FX get it handled under warranty. Out of warranty just try something new eh, let us know if your re-work lasts 

Will try to remember to give an update but it needs lots of time/charge cycles to tell the tail.
That said the OEM did exhibit elevated temperature from the flag connectors early on so will monitor its heat signature. 

My original socket made it to around the 38k mark as well with countless cords consumed
Will have 50k (miles) on the clock next week.

[TheRan]

Would a C19 socket fit in there? Looks like C14 needs a 20x28mm hole and C19 needs 25x33mm. If not, it's a bit more work but perhaps there's somewhere that you could relocate the socket to.

[ESokoloff]

Would a C19 socket fit in there? Looks like C14 needs a 20x28mm hole and C19 needs 25x33mm. If not, it's a bit more work but perhaps there's somewhere that you could relocate the socket to.

No it will not (if it did, I’m sure Zero would have already gone that route.

I’m REALLY hoping that I’m done with toasted wires, sockets, & plugs.
If not, will have to abandon this plug spec & up the  Ampicity  capabilities of another type. 

[ESokoloff]

After about 2.25 months & 2.25k miles I’m very satisfied with the outcome. 
The new plug along with the downstream splice is running only slightly warmer then ambient temperature.

Also worth noting is I modify all my charge cords by removing several mm of plastic from the tip of the C13 plug to allow deeper insertion of the conductors into the socket so the metal to metal connection of the plug/socket is greater. 

[crankypants]

Can you post any pics or video of your plug adapter replacement? I might look into this myself and want to see what it looks like.

Thanks

[ESokoloff]

Sorry, no video & the few images I took of the procedure are of little instructional value. 
Other then the brown color of the plug no way to tell that it’s not stock.
Still quite pleased with the lasting results tho 👍👍