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[remmie]

Here are the 3D STL files for the type 2 cover. It is a housing and a lid.

the cable length is 3 meters if I recall. About 1 meter is used for routing the cable to the silly tray. So I have about 2 meters of cable available to reach the EVSE.
If in a pinch I can also quickly remove the rider seat with the M6 knurled knob (see picture in previous post) and get another 50 cm or so to reach the EVSE. Most of the time I can easily park within reach of the cable.

To route the cable like I did it is most convenient to remove the plastic tank. It is just 6 bolts (2 under the charge flap, 2 next to the ignition switch and on both sides the bottom screw of the silver "wings" Then the plastic tank should just lift up.
The cable is also routed behind (or rather in front of) the frame bar so getting the cable with connectors out would have to involve cutting the cable 
Also leave enough slack on the female connector side so you can still temporarily remove the connector from the bike and attach a tethered cable from a fast charger or granny charger

The male end of a type 2 connector does not fit directly into a female connector of a fast charger with tethered cable. But if you cut off the front 12 mm it will fit. But then it won't have the locking tabs any more, so take care that the 2 connectors don't get seperated under load.

Also if you remove the front 12mm the locking tabs are no longer there (like i said) and i've come across some chargers in Germany where the EVSE checked for those locking tabs. It took me a while to figure that out. I did keep the piece that i cut off of the connector and used some small screws to be able screw the sawed off piece back on the connector. That worked OK for the EVSE that did the check for the locking tabs.

At another EVSE my shortened male connector (even with the attached locking tabs piece) did not accept the cable. In the end the flap on the connector OF THE EVSE had a sensor on it. Due to the smaller connector the flap did not open fully to 90 degrees. I stuck a piece of cloth under the flap and all was well. Took me a while to figure that one out too. It kept saying that I could only use 1 of the 2 connectors (type 2 and schuko linked). So it was a wrong error message.

I really don't mind if you build the exact same cable. Just happy to help.

 

 

 

[Hans2183]

Mine is ready, 2m length should be plenty. I just turned the pig tails inside the pistol housings for now. Might shorten things if they are still to big to carry.



Instructions were pretty clear but still good I had all this advice so at least I knew what I was doing. Also the cable selection and config is identical to what Remmie used.

[petewarm]

Wow, lots of good stuff:
 small cover for type 2 plug means can be left plugged in to bike.
 smart use of 2 1.5mm2 cores to allow rating at 32A.

From these two, I can now see how to perhaps get both 16A and type2 plug under seat.  Haven't done it yet, but the attached is my proposal, based on remmies wiring schematics.

Next step is to get the cover/lid printed and then probably modified to allow both cables in and enough room for EVracing PWM module.

[Gary]

Granny Charger - 1st version

Many thanks to everyone who has contributed to this forum.  We couldn't have achieved this with out you.  Here is a photo of our first Granny Charger.

We had a copy of Remmies 3D plug printed (Thanks Remmie!), purchased the Simple EVSE kit from evracing.cz and a plug with the screw terminals.  The 12V converter is a 23mm cube.  To squeeze it into Remmies plug, we had to discard the existing base plate in the plug and make our own base plate from a discarded PSU ABS black plastic box.  Now the 12V converter just fits.

We sleeved the 680 ohm resistor in a couple of layers of heatshrink to protect the leads.  We replaced the switch with a small 12v relay so the signal to the charger occured as soon as the mains supply was switched on.

Please forgive the crap soldering/wiring, we usually do much better.

To hold Remmies plug cover onto the plug itself, we used a couple of 2mm screws.

We have sourced a much smaller 240V to 12Vdc converter from China so we think we can now still use the original base plate in the plug.  There is plenty of room for the next size up relay and, we think we can fit a PCB into the cover to hold the new 12Vdc converter, the 680 ohm resistor and the relay as a single unit.

I can put together a pdf document with all construction photos and link to the parts used if anyone would like it.

Cheers

Phillip and Gary

[MrBlc]

This i would like to read the pdf on yes.
Any idea on what the pricing would be?
Any possibility to buy it as a kit? (i can get my own cable and cut to length)

[Gary]

Hi MrBlc,

OK, I'll put a pdf together for you and post it here.  I'll include the links to the suppliers and the prices I paid.  We had thought of creating a kit but haven't got round to it yet (only recently finished the cable!).

About the cable.  We found the ordinary armored cable we used became very stiff at low temperatures, ie, early autumn mornings, so we changed our cable to the 'Artic Blue' brand.  This is used for extension leads on building sites during the winter so must remain flexible.

Regards

Gary

[MrBlc]

Hi Gary

Thank you.
I work for a cable manufacturer, so finding a flexible cable shouldn't be too hard.
I also exist in an arctic country, so we are used to look at cables for low temps.

Only issue i have is the same as Remmie experienced. Finding a 5x4/6mm+1/2x0,25 is difficult, but we can use alternatives.

[Gary]

Hi Mr Blc,

Herewith my pdf instructions.  When I get the new 12Vdc converters, I'll make up a better set of instructions, hopefully with a PCB for the components.

Regards

Gary

[Shadow]

Nice! 

Topic moved to Parts, Modes And Hacks.

[MrBlc]

Nice work Gary!

[Gary]

Hi MrBlc,

Thank you!  Let me know if any parts of the instructions need clarifying.  I'm ordering a set of ultra small 12Vdc converters today, so I may be amending the instructions quite soon.

Cheers

Gary

[remmie]

Great work guys! Looking good. Glad to be of help

[MrBlc]

@remmie Dude.. This would not have happened without you. So.. Thank you too for all the input and wisdom.
That said, and this is just a personal comment that bears no meaning at all for anyone but me, whenever you mention Ölflex, my backside tingles.
The reason for that is simply that it has a rather conflicting history with a (now) competing brand called Rheyflex.
Rheyflex is the originator in all of this, and full disclosure, the brand that is produced by the very company i work for.
So.. You lot are of course free to choose whatever brand you want, but to me they would always be translated to a Rheyflex variant.

Actually, i'm contemplating getting my hands on a Pureax variant as it is even more flexible and sturdier, as well as being the proper color for HV EVSE connections..

@Gary Well, if you're asking, i would like even more details on the electronic components to make it easier to source.
Apart from that, this is a very good start and i'm already thinking on doing this project during winter as my driving season is nearing it's end nowadays..

[Gary]

Hi MrBlc,

Apologies for the delay in responding.  I have only just logged in again.

PARTS

The very small 12Vdc converters are on their way from China.  Looks like they are on a container ship so it will be some weeks before I get them

The small relays I already have along with some veroboard to prototype the layout.

The EV Simple pcbs' should arrive this week from evracing.

I'll post again as soon as I have all the bits.

PLATE FOR PLUG

As I mentioned, I had to fabricate a new plate to hold the plug pins in place and allow enough room for the components.  I just figured out how to use eMachineShop again (after a 5 year layoff!) and have created a new plate to 3D print.  It should fit nicely inside Remmies plug cover.

Regards

Gary

[Gary]

Hi All,

The tiny 12vDC converter pcbs have arrived from China, along with the charging pcbs from evracing.  I'll let you know how the testing goes.

Cheers

Gary