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[remmie]

No, not really. I think it works like it should with V5 (as well as with V4 by the way)

For me and my body position the lever is in exactly the right spot, I only have to move my thumb to reach it. I also like that it is totally reversible.

With V5 there is no more room to position the lever any further towards the handlebar. With the CC-button fully depressed by the lever there is a 1 mm gap where you can push the lever further (it can do so because PETG is flexible enough) but bringing it any closer to the handlebar would mean that the CC-button will not be completely depressed. And it needs to be completely depressed to work I have found.

I've tested some more versions but they were more cosmetic and some didn't work at all. I've tried making the lever higher so that it obscures the CC-button completely but that resulted that the lever hit the CC-button housing before it fully depressed the button. The same happened when I made a version where the lever was positioned 3 mm higher.
So basically the only thing I would consider is breaking any sharp edges that are present but that may mean the strength is different and is purely cosmetic so I'm not going to do that any time soon. In black the button is hardly noticeable and the little bolt cap aids in hiding the solver colored bolt.

1 thing to emphasize is to have it printed with 100% infill (so basically a solid model instead of a partial hollow one). Obviously the part where the bolt runs through needs to be ridged to hold the bolt securely so your brake assembly stays in place (rather important  ) and also the lever part needs to be solid because it must not flex too much otherwise the CC-button will not be depressed enough. And off course do not use a non-flexible material or a UV compromised material to print it. I used PETG which is pretty flexible but strong and does not wear out with UV. PLA is therefore NOT to be used. I imagine that ABS or Nylon or similar may work as well.

If your ordered part comes in and the lever proves to be a little too flexible you can always take a file and make the beveled? edge (is that called a beveled edge?) on the tip of the lever a little more beveled, bringing the lever a little bit more to the handlebar. It already has a little bevel of about 5 mm. The lever is 4 mm thick so you would hardly compromise the strength of the lever tip.

[didierm]

No, not really. I think it works like it should with V5 (as well as with V4 by the way)

Thank you for the elaborate feedback ; much appreciated.

Parts have been ordered (Dutch company, no less ).

[stevenh]

No, not really. I think it works like it should with V5 (as well as with V4 by the way)

For me and my body position the lever is in exactly the right spot, I only have to move my thumb to reach it. I also like that it is totally reversible.

With V5 there is no more room to position the lever any further towards the handlebar. With the CC-button fully depressed by the lever there is a 1 mm gap where you can push the lever further (it can do so because PETG is flexible enough) but bringing it any closer to the handlebar would mean that the CC-button will not be completely depressed. And it needs to be completely depressed to work I have found.

I've tested some more versions but they were more cosmetic and some didn't work at all. I've tried making the lever higher so that it obscures the CC-button completely but that resulted that the lever hit the CC-button housing before it fully depressed the button. The same happened when I made a version where the lever was positioned 3 mm higher.
So basically the only thing I would consider is breaking any sharp edges that are present but that may mean the strength is different and is purely cosmetic so I'm not going to do that any time soon. In black the button is hardly noticeable and the little bolt cap aids in hiding the solver colored bolt.

1 thing to emphasize is to have it printed with 100% infill (so basically a solid model instead of a partial hollow one). Obviously the part where the bolt runs through needs to be ridged to hold the bolt securely so your brake assembly stays in place (rather important  ) and also the lever part needs to be solid because it must not flex too much otherwise the CC-button will not be depressed enough. And off course do not use a non-flexible material or a UV compromised material to print it. I used PETG which is pretty flexible but strong and does not wear out with UV. PLA is therefore NOT to be used. I imagine that ABS or Nylon or similar may work as well.

If your ordered part comes in and the lever proves to be a little too flexible you can always take a file and make the beveled? edge (is that called a beveled edge?) on the tip of the lever a little more beveled, bringing the lever a little bit more to the handlebar. It already has a little bevel of about 5 mm. The lever is 4 mm thick so you would hardly compromise the strength of the lever tip.

I've done a few rides now with V5 installed (a 30mm M6 will work by the way, plenty of thread "bite", the hardware store was out of 35mm ones).  Works great and very natural and responsive.  Great design.  I used solid PETG.

Steve

[petewarm]

Just fitted this, thanks again Remmie, only confirmed operation when switched on, will try for real tomorrow.

[Hans2183]

I installed mine using an M6x40 that I grounded down to a little more than 35mm. Couldn't find a hex head M6 longer than 30mm in the local shops for some reason. And 30mm was just too short. The mirror on the other hand has 2x 30mm in case you want to try that.

Had to position the brake lever down a little from factory position for the piece to align with the button but other than that it just fits. And works great. Did a test ride and love it.

[PaulZero]

I printed and installed the V5 extender and after riding for a while I had a thought that Zero never intended the rider to reach across whilst all 4 fingers were on the throttle grip.  So I removed the extended and tried this:
- move right hand towards the cruise control button such that three fingers are on the throttle grip and the index finger is on the throttle control housing (plastic between the grip and motor on/off switch).  Move thumb to cruise control button.

I find this position to provide fine motor control over the throttle and the cruise control button.

Maybe just a preference thing.

[Zelidar]

Happily using it since now well over 500 km, many thanks for sharing that information Remmie, that is much appreciated, and greetings from Switzerland.

[petewarm]

Thanks Remmie, much more useful than the standard switch, which is frankly dangerous to operate.

I've made some slight mods:

-rounded the end to stop the corners catching my gloves.

-rotated the whole throttle/stop/cruise wing mirror mountings away from me to get a more comfortable angle.  Note this means dealing with the Zero throttle location stud (mine was plastic and non existent, I now suspect this was me rotating and pulling the throttle off when fitting some Renthal 845 bars).

Anyway, I now use the cruise extensively, to the point that I now immediately switch it on at the start of a ride, and on and off according to road conditions. Bit of shame the function is a little basic, there is no "return to last set speed" or nudge up or down function. (well actually you can do the down by turning off and then on again with the bike naturally slowing slightly between each press..)

Brilliant Forum, Brilliant Members!

[SpeedRacer]

what size bolt head did you guys use?  This looks great but I got a standard philips head bolt and the head is too wide to sit inside the level.  Sticks up and that makes the bolt too short.

[LectricRyder173]

I have no access to a 3D printer.  Would you consider making one for me and others and selling them ?  I could acquire the bolt I suppose but if included I would like that too for a little extra in the price.

[Skidz]

Hey remmie, great idea as always! I'm going to steal the idea and try to design something for Energica's, which have the same problem

[jotjotde]

Hey remmie, great idea as always! I'm going to steal the idea and try to design something for Energica's, which have the same problem

Totally agree! Saturday I rode a Energica Ribelle and can tell you that the CC switch is even WORSE positioned than on the Zero.

[2020_SRS_Commuter]

I don't need that but that is a very clever solution. Well done!

[Protonus]

Thank you SO much for this STL and design!  I used v5 as pictured.  Had a friend print it in clear PETG - all he had on hand, at least it should be be even more UV stable.  I might have him redo it in black at some point, but for now, I'm just happy it works so well.  I had to rotate my brake lever down so that the bolt would be in the right spot, since AFAIK the throttle is indexed to the bars and won't rotate without modification.  But it's ok here, still comfortable. 

I ordered this set of M6 socket head black bolts, and used a 35mm one, from here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P3RDYLL

[LoremIpsum]

I registered a forum account to contribute this back. My thanks to remmie for sharing the design in the first place.

I made a V6 version of the lever. I added a rounded corner on the end as my thumb would tend to snag there when circling around to press down on the lever.

The stl can be downloaded from Tinkercad, or modified further if people are up to it.
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/0rQ7y4TiLu9?sharecode=bAEGpbofybI-vp14no-WRBpUeNVoomlWXOWK4ErVg64