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[GaryArt1]

So I had my first major problem with SRF and I didn't even update firmware.  I went for a ride Wednesday and postponed the update after all I read here.  All was good.  Bike ran great. I was getting down to about 30% SOC and saw a charging station in a shopping center.  I thought it is an ideal time to top it off.  I turned off the bike and connected the charger.  Nothing happened.  The bikes display didn't come on and the charger waited for the bike to communicate.  I thought maybe an issue with the charger so I unhooked (had so problem doing that) and went to continue on my way.  Well i got an check engine light and 12 v fault error and the bike would not run.  I switched it off and on a few times but same.  I disconnected battery to reboot system but same thing once I reconnected.  Each time I tried it, the lights and display would shut down sooner and sooner after I keyed it on.  So I am guessing the 12v battery must be dead or dying.  I have a call into dealer who has a call into Zero and now just waiting.  It took a whole 3 months until I had to have the bike towed home.  Not good Zero for a 20K bike.

[MVetter]

Sorry to hear that. I know they're using the same DC-DC converter in the SR/F as the S/DS line, and in those it's one of the most miserable things to replace on the bike. The good news, on the SR/F, is they moved it to be much, much more accessible. Replacing it should be a breeze.

[gborgan]

Well that’s about 89 more days than I got before towing my ‘15 SR.  Charger failure first night! That was just one of 3 chargers in three years of ownership. Had to tow it when it went from 25% to 0 in 4 miles but that’s another story.

Best wishes.  They’re nice when they work but can become a paperweight amazing fast. 
-George

It took a whole 3 months until I had to have the bike towed home.  Not good Zero for a 20K bike.
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[GaryArt1]

Yeah I guess the good thing is it is 20 degrees F in NY and we have some cold weather ahead.  I would have been really mad if this was the middle of riding season.  The other saying grace is I have a pickup.  So between the ramps and a winch, I didn't actually need get get it towed. I am hoping Zero sends a new battery to dealer so I can at least get it going and drive it into them to check out.  Not fun getting a 500 lb bike into the back of pickup even with a winch.

[Curt]

I know they're using the same DC-DC converter in the SR/F as the S/DS line

Oops, they were supposed to have re-used only the turn signals and footpegs right? 

It does sound like the 12V battery was not charging and took 3 months to drain down.

If it's like the old bikes, then the DC-DC powers most everything but the motor: headlights, running lights, turn signals, flashers, dash, horn, ABS, MBB1. It seems like if those things are running then the DC-DC may be OK. Although maybe its output voltage could drop.

[siai47]

On my SR/F when the DC-DC converter isn't running (and you can see this on startup) there will be a red battery symbol illuminated on the dash.  It usually goes out after a few seconds letting you know the converter is operating.  After a minute or so, if the converter isn't operating, the symbol will start to flash.  I observed this when my bike wouldn't power off.

[GaryArt1]

On my SR/F when the DC-DC converter isn't running (and you can see this on startup) there will be a red battery symbol illuminated on the dash.  It usually goes out after a few seconds letting you know the converter is operating.  After a minute or so, if the converter isn't operating, the symbol will start to flash.  I observed this when my bike wouldn't power off.

So I am guessing you are right.  I gave the battery a full charge and it looks like it is good.  I resinstalled it and it is the same thing.  The check engine and battery light is on and the bike won't start.  It powers down pretty quickly now.  I guess back in the pickup it goes for a trip to the dealer.

[NEW2elec]

I hate that for you.  I was a little worried about the use of a 12V battery on the new bikes and how the DC-DC converter would handle it.
I hope they get it back up and running asap.  Maybe a firmware update for the bike to better monitor the SOC of the 12V battery is in order.

I've seen people have issues with their Tesla 12V battery going out and then they can't even open the door.

[ESokoloff]

Oops, they were supposed to have re-used only the turn signals and footpegs right? 

Don't forget the mirrors & side reflectors

[stevenh]

A friend of mine got a BMW I3 a couple of months ago and the 12v battery failed leaving him stuck on the side of the road on his first road trip (week 1).  BMW had to get a new battery from from Germany (it took a week to get him back on the road).

Personally, I think having a 12v battery in a car with that many watt hours available is just crazy...

Steve

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

The Sevcon DC-DC converter is shared across Zero models.

The SR/F places the 300W model in the tank area between the front of the tank and the storage bin, on the rear side of a metal bracket. I like the location because it should shield the converter and its sensitive connector from the elements better than the old model. However, if there's an electrical interaction with another component on the input side, or maybe even the output side, it might be vulnerable to early failure.

I wish this component had some more electrical protection, even a sacrificial component in front of the connector would hopefully be cheaper to replace and avoid confusing and costly side-effects. (FWIW the converter itself can be bought and replaced generically for about $200, which itself is reasonable if that's the only thing wrong.)