Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[zerodog]

Finally finish my seat locking latch for my 2017 S seats! Parts for it was a scooter lock and key set from Amazon (specifically this, Scooter Ignition Switch Key... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAL0E7K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf).  A 3/16" thick aluminum sheet for the latch mount.   A 1/16th aluminum sheet metal to reinforce the seat where the striker bolts to.  A 6mm or 1/8" steel rod for the striker, and some bolts and nuts and some time to adjust the distance between the lock to the latch (alot of trial and error there.)  I'll post the final measurement for anyone who wants to do this later.  All this cost me less than $20. (If you don't include the cost of a tail plastic because of some broken tabs because I didn't bother to read the instructions for its removal on the unofficialzeromanual.com site. Doh!)

[zerodog]

More pics

[zerodog]

More pic of it mounted.

[zerodog]

And on the seat.

[DPsSRnSD]

Nice job!

[zerodog]

For the latch, the total distance between the top of the seat subframe to the bottom of the latch is 48mm.

For the striker, the distance between the top of the striker to the seat plastic is 57mm.  This is the distance that seem to allow the seat to be lock tightly for me.  If you do this yourself, your distance might be a little bit different.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

This is interesting. Can you provide some more photos of how it’s used on your fully assembled bike?

[zerodog]

If I had to do this again, I would drill and tap the holes for the latch mount instead as the subframe metal is thick enough for that.  And drill them near the middle flat part, so I don't have to worry about the 2 struts that run down towards the taillight.  That way I wouldn't have had to remove the plastics.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk