I like to run an auxiliary terminal block on my ICE bikes to land all of my accessory connections so I don’t have bunch of connectors stacked up on the battery terminals and with the use of a relay I can have both switched and unswitched terminals. It’s cheap and provides a tidy way to organize all of your accessory connections. However, on the Zero it becomes more of a necessity since there are no battery terminals that you can directly connect to. Here is the terminal block that I used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UWVYA30/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1You’ll also need to buy a jumper strip to provide continuity between terminals.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0143YQ9OE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1With the jumper, you can typically decide how many terminals you want to be positive or negative and whether you want the positive terminal switched or unswitched. However, on the Zero all of the terminals are inherently switched (i.e. powered when you turn the key on), so there is no need for a relay. There is a video on the unofficial manual to shows how the get an “always on†power source, but that requires jumping the DC-DC converter which I didn’t want to get in to. Plus the only device I can think of where I would want constant power is for a 12V power outlet.
The way the terminal block works is the terminals across from each other are connected, but the terminals next to each other are not. Here’s where the jumper comes in. Depending on how you cut up the jumper determines what grouping of terminals have continuity. I just cut mine in half and made one half of the terminal block positive and the other half negative. The terminal block has 16 screw posts so there are 8 positive and 8 negative connection points. That is enough terminals to connect 7 different accessories (if you exclude the two terminals for the main + and – wires), which is more than enough.
I located the terminal block in the rear tail section, which fit nicely and provided easy access by only having to remove the seat. I used a piece of red shrink tubing which I cut in half and wrapped around the positive side of the jumper to identify that portion as positive. The photo shows the terminal block after I connected my Stebel air horn and Heise daytime running lights, which I'll describe in a separate thread.
I ran the main black negative wire to the terminal block using the negative side of the OEM SAE accessory connector. I bought a quick disconnect cable, cut it in half, and then cut off the red positive wire. I then spliced on a 12 AWG wire, added a ring connector, and ran the wire to the negative side of the terminal block. Sorry I don't have a photo of the SAE connection, but it's very straightforward. Just plug and play.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GK9HV56/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1For the main positive wire, I tapped into the top side of the OEM fuse block similar to the method described here.
https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Common_Modifications#New_CircuitsI then ran 12 AWG red positive wire with a ring connector to the positive side of the terminal block and spliced in a 30A fuse.