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[heroto]

Current model display options:

A  trip 1 mileage, range (before battery runs down), error code, and motor rpm

B: motor temp, trip 2 mileage, trip 1 energy consumption, motor temp, and long term energy consumption.

If I have this right, 4 choices for A, 5 for B.

Which have you chosen?  There is no right answer.
Some clever alternatives to the current factory options may be proposed. If Zero is paying attention, which they darn well should, they will thank you for your insights.

I would like to see ambient air temp and a tire pressure monitor option.

And cruise control, a low mounted high voltage charge option currently occupied by the 110 v charger, and factory option fairing. But that's a different thread!

[UW4E]

A: Range
B: Trip AV (what you called energy consumption)

[dennis-NL]

I just make a printscreen of my app from Zero because a Zero 2013DS has the old dashboard  ;-)

[Scotchman]

Range and motor temp for me.  Nothing really good on the second line, I'd much prefer range and trip 1 mileage.

[ashnazg]

A: range
B: trip 2 mileage

I still have less than 5000 miles of riding experience across my three Zeros since 2012, so my main skill to learn is knowing "how far I can go" vs "how far I've already gone".  I know to consider the range as an estimate.

I only occasionally bluetooth my phone to use the app during a ride, since I've never noticed any different values between the display and the app.

[Richard230]

Since I have never seen a higher temperature than 175 degrees F, I have my upper display set for range and my lower display for miles traveled, which I reset after every recharge.

[DPsSRnSD]

A: Range
B: Trip AV (what you called energy consumption)

^ this is also what I've settled on.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

A: Range
B: Trip AV (what you called energy consumption)

^ this is also what I've settled on.

Same (Trip AV reads as Wh/mi or Wh/km).

[Burton]

Same (Trip AV reads as Wh/mi or Wh/km).

worth noting. this number likely isn't accurate ... on my dsr the rear wheel size in the MBB was set to 2070 stock when it is actually closer to 2040 (likely below a bit as well)

This means your distance traveled, current speed, and Wh per distance unit will be off.

I have also noticed the energy at the controller is typically higher than that read on the zero app (Wh used per trip) even with the "buff" given to the zero app because of its wheel size being off.

So like all zero measurements ... take this one with a grain of salt and leave yourself a buffer.

[DPsSRnSD]

Same (Trip AV reads as Wh/mi or Wh/km).

worth noting. this number likely isn't accurate ...

So like all zero measurements ... take this one with a grain of salt and leave yourself a buffer.

I agree. I've haven't found it useful to treat these measurements as consistent nor as accurate. I find them useful, though, as figures of merit and watch them enough to know what they should be doing under different conditions. In that way I can predict if I'm going to get the range I want; or if something is amiss.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

While the efficiency measurements are not accurate, they do have some relative precision, in that the efficiency reading rises with increases in load and falls with decreases in a roughly proportional way.

See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Accuracy_and_precision

"Trip AV" or "Wh/mi" for reference is power divided by speed, so Burton's point about tire radius mismatch influencing this is valid. Of course, the speedometer inaccuracy will be in direct proportion to this, so correcting the speedometer via MBB settings adjustment would correct the same inaccuracy factor here.

Anyway, its visibility on the dash helps to adjust one's range estimate. The range estimate takes time to adjust to different conditions, but with a throttle lock on the highway it is straightforward enough to target a specific range or remaining SoC at your intended arrival point. After adjustments for headwinds, I can predict what SoC I'll arrive with which is very helpful on trips.

The mobile app I'm testing (an iOS port of https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mc.zero) to surface, graph, and log ride event parameters shows a lot of promise. Cycle Analyst would obviously be better but this is much more accessible.
- I've found that DC current measurement at the controller multiplied by pack voltage yields a more robust figure.
- I've also discovered that the throttle lock pretty much yields a stable current reading from the MBB for any given pack voltage / SoC state.
- Pack voltage varies quite a lot for a given throttle position. With enough testing, I can probably work out a pack impedance estimation guide from the variance.