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[nicktulloh]

2019 DS 7.2 900 miles  charge tank   100% charged

Turned the bike on today and all lights/horn are out. Checked the low power fuse and DCDC fuse and they were ok. Tried the key again and all lights were back but headlight flickered and went off, then came back on, then went off. Now everything is out again. Thinking there might be a loose connection and I might have moved it when I was checking the DCDC fuse?

Bike powers up and rides.

Any ideas before I trailer it to the dealer?

[TheRan]

All the connections go behind the headlight, it's a quick and easy job to remove it (two bolts on either side) and check the plugs.

[nicktulloh]

It's not just the headlight. It's the taillight, brake light, turn signals and horn as well.

[NEW2elec]

It's likely your DC-DC convertor.
Check the manual for the location of the fuse but if it's fine then the convertor is what powers all the 12 volt functions.

I assume the dash is out as well.

[Gains]

When all 12v is out ,check if you have 12v on the connector of the DC-DC converter. If there is no 12v ,the DC-DC is dead ,if there is 12v ,you have a bad connection somewhere .

[TheRan]

The horn and light switches go behind the headlight, I just assumed that the lights wouldn't work if the switches weren't connected but I could be wrong.

[nicktulloh]

Thanks guys. DCDC fuse is fine, I'll check output tomorrow. Dash is still working.

[Shadow]

Check for a short on the tail lighting (ran through the tail plastics on S/DS) that can become pinched or disconnected from vibration. Though if that were the case you would probably lose the dash back light as well. If something is shorting out the DC-DC output it will be well protected by that fuse. If the DC-DC is going bad you would see those same effects. The tail is easy to get to and you would want to include that wiring in your inspection of DC-DC output wiring.

[NEW2elec]

That's good that your dash works.  It's not the convertor then since you would lose all 12 volt functions.
Could be a short like Shadow said.  Good luck.

[Auriga]

The dash will still work without the DCDC. The dash backlight will stop working, but it's still visible. All indicators and the headlight would stop working though.


This sounds like a failed DCDC to me if the fuse is still good.

[NEW2elec]

My DC-DC went out on my 13 which does have a different dash set up for but the tach and all the liquid crystal display went out including the green "go" light to show the throttle is engaged.

There is a small 3220 (number off the top of my head but a quarter sized watch battery) in the modern dashes that powers the clock.
I can't see how the dash could get power without the DC-DC convertor giving it power.
Are you saying it runs off the full 116 volts? 
People report losing their clocks when the watch battery dies but not their dash function so it has to go off the DC-DC in my mind.

[Auriga]

The more modern dashes probably run off 5V or 3.3V from the MBB, and use the 12V only for the backlight.

All the coin cell does is store the clock time when off. The clock still works without it too.