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[rcavetroll]

Hi all,

First time poster... just bought a used 2016 FXS, and took it out for my first real ride this morning. Loved it!

When I got it home, the batteries were at about 30%. I hit the kill switch, got off the bike, and started pushing it backwards into its parking spot. It got a little hard to push though, and I was really confused. I finally turned the key switch all the way off to open the contactors. Still hard to push. I rolled it forward around in a circle, and then it was back to normal, and I pushed it backwards into its space. Now when I turn the key on or plug in the charger, as soon as the contactors close, I get a loud buzzing sound. The last time I tried it, the motor even seemed to turn just slightly (kill switch in the off position and kickstand down). Any ideas what happened, or what to test first?

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Congrats on getting a used FXS! What you're describing can't be good, though. I hope the previous owner can answer questions about anything that happened to it.

The only quick safe thing to check might be belt alignment; put the bike on a stand and check how the wheel spins with and without the contactor shut, and check belt tension. I see that you made a wiki account, so you're probably aware of what's available there on the belt etc.

Presuming that your bike is under warrantee and is not a rebuild, take it to a dealer and have them troubleshoot it. I suppose my first thought is to have them repeat motor/controller commissioning. The FXS has an IPM motor, which has custom programming that only a dealer can work with.

[jnef]

It is normal for the motor to make growling noises and resist when moving it while on or charging. Rarely it makes that growling noise when not moving (and on or charging) or for a little while after moving. How loud is this buzzing when off?  It doesn't sound like what you did should have hurt it.


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[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

It is normal for the motor to make growling noises and resist when moving it while on or charging. Rarely it makes that growling noise when not moving (and on or charging) or for a little while after moving. How loud is this buzzing when off?  It doesn't sound like what you did should have hurt it.

Good point. I may have over-interpreted what's reported. There's a manual entry about motor sounds, at least, but without sound samples it's hard to convey what's normal versus not.

http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Unofficial_Service_Manual#Motor_Sounds

The buzzing is what seems concerning.

[rcavetroll]

Thanks for the responses! Now the display is wonky as well... speedometer displaying random numbers. Here's a link to a short video (https://www.dropbox.com/s/w5p3udyz8qxwyxd/FXS_display.MOV?dl=0), though unfortunately it didn't really catch the noise. I'll try to get a better one tomorrow. To me it sounds like the motor is chattering... mechanical sound as opposed to an electrical one.

The first time (when I arrived back home after my ride), the noise started up as soon as the contactors closed. This time (a few hours after that), the motor/chatter sound was silent for the first ~20 seconds, but the speedometer display was displaying random numbers from the start.

[jnef]

Thanks for the responses! Now the display is wonky as well... speedometer displaying random numbers. Here's a link to a short video (https://www.dropbox.com/s/w5p3udyz8qxwyxd/FXS_display.MOV?dl=0), though unfortunately it didn't really catch the noise. I'll try to get a better one tomorrow. To me it sounds like the motor is chattering... mechanical sound as opposed to an electrical one.

That is definitely not the normal noise and normal dash flashing. Much louder than the contractors I've ever heard and louder and 'clankier' than the motor growling. If you are still under warranty, I'd go that route first.



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[odedmaz]

What error code are you getting?

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[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Even if you're not under warranty, a dealer is going to be better positioned to check on this and fix it. Definitely take it in for a diagnosis and try not to damage anything from using it like this at speed.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

You know what? Maybe the motor position sensor is loose. I don't really know how to check on that but the only cable running to the motor that isn't a big conductor is that one, and if the sensor doesn't work, the controller will likely make some very bad mistakes trying to operate the motor.

[rcavetroll]

Error codes are: 0025, 0044, 0048, 0049

I got the recommendation to check the position sensor from a friend as well... will check that and report back.

Unfortunately, it's not under warranty. It was modified for racing (different motor and controller), then rebuilt back to street configuration. I've got a bit of experience with EVs though, so will take a crack at fixing it myself before going to the dealer.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Error codes are: 0025, 0044, 0048, 0049

Those are ordinary interlock error codes. Check the official manual (2016 FX/FXS from Zero's website) on page 7.6.

I got the recommendation to check the position sensor from a friend as well... will check that and report back.

Unfortunately, it's not under warranty. It was modified for racing (different motor and controller), then rebuilt back to street configuration. I've got a bit of experience with EVs though, so will take a crack at fixing it myself before going to the dealer.

Okay, then it's definitely a good idea to get it checked out by someone knowledgeable.

If you're lucky, "the dealer" is Hollywood Electrics in LA. Otherwise, check with the builder or learn to get up to speed with IXXAT and the Sevcon toolchain, but be careful doing anything other than changing settings or running basic diagnostics; motor commissioning / field alignment is not going to work right for your IPM motor without Zero's software.

[rcavetroll]

Thanks for all the replies. I left town for a bit, and am only getting back to thinking about my Zero again now. And, I've got a new behavior...

- turn ignition key (kill switch in off position)
- display goes through its startup sequence (flashing all segments)
- temperature display alternates between 16 C and 555 C
- contactors open, contactors close, repeat about 5 times
- whole display starts's flashing

Here's a video of the sequence. I don't do anything in that video except turn the key.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0ri2jknn0be4hj/IMG_2280.MOV?dl=0

Any ideas? My local dealer (not Hollywood Electric, unfortunately) is on vacation for a week or so, but I'll ping him when he gets back.

[togo]

I would call Zero tech support.

They might be able to help, or at a minimum, may be able to give your dealer's tech a good starting point on the troubleshooting.

I've found dealer techs to do a lot better when they get a call from Zero before the service.