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[nigezero]

Just completed a swap to the smaller front pulley on my DS. In rough terms this moves the torque curve down to lower speed which means faster takes offs, closer to a DSR.

Downside is I'm warned belt life might be shorter and top speed down to around 135kmh - have to wait and see but it's an experiment I'm willing to live with for the boost.

The motor removal and re installation was fiddly but and absolute dream compared to an ICE bike. I really have to commend Zero on a tight but really nice design. Adjustment and alignment is all pretty straightforward and logical and with the right tools and some care anyone with some basic skills could do this - only caveat being you are dealing with dangerous power levels and need to be vey methodical and respectful of the danger for injury and damage.

I couldn't get the old pulley off and enlisted a friend with a workshop who did it for a song, swapped out the bearings while we were there. Notably, he left out the grub screw on the pulley all together " does nothing because the key stops the pulley moving and the main bolt locks everything in place" and they are notoriously prone to seizure.

Also swapped the swingarm and wheel bearings which wee bit on good shape after 30000 kms.

The most interesting aspect is that getting the belt adjustment right seems a little trickier.

I always start by string lining the wheels for perfect alignment then tweak the tension a bit at a time. The smaller pulley seems to have changed the way the adjustment behaves - its extremely delicate now and took a number of goes to get the alignment right AND the belt running dead centre on the pulley. Also noticed that when it's set and you tighten the axle nut it adds about 5kgs of tension, presumably as everything is tweaked into place.

Checked it all again after a test ride and it's all looking good will keep you posted.

[rayivers]

he left out the grub screw on the pulley all together " does nothing because the key stops the pulley moving and the main bolt locks everything in place"

If I were you, I'd install a set/grub screw as soon as you possibly can.  The pulley setscrew performs an absolutely critical function: it locks the pulley tightly to the shaft & key, and keeps the pulley from cocking under tension load (possibly causing belt alignment/centering issues - sound familiar? ) or worrying back & forth against the key & shaft with every torque application.  If installed with a small amount of blue Loc-Tite. the threads shouldn't rust or seize up hard enough to prevent removal.

I always start by string lining the wheels for perfect alignment then tweak the tension a bit at a time.

This only works if you have a motorcycle-centerline to compare the rear wheel rim line to.  Obviously the front wheel won't work for this purpose, as it moves and may be slightly off-center too - so you'll need something else.  I'm not saying you can't align the wheels to each other - of course you can - but that line may have no relation to the motorcycle's centerline, which is the most crucial wheel-alignment reference.

Ray

[nigezero]

he left out the grub screw on the pulley all together " does nothing because the key stops the pulley moving and the main bolt locks everything in place"

If I were you, I'd install a set/grub screw as soon as you possibly can.  The pulley setscrew performs an absolutely critical function: it locks the pulley tightly to the shaft & key, and keeps the pulley from cocking under tension load (possibly causing belt alignment/centering issues - sound familiar? ) or worrying back & forth against the key & shaft with every torque application.  If installed with a small amount of blue Loc-Tite. the threads shouldn't rust or seize up hard enough to prevent removal.

I always start by string lining the wheels for perfect alignment then tweak the tension a bit at a time.

This only works if you have a motorcycle-centerline to compare the rear wheel rim line to.  Obviously the front wheel won't work for this purpose, as it moves and may be slightly off-center too - so you'll need something else.  I'm not saying you can't align the wheels to each other - of course you can - but that line may have no relation to the motorcycle's centerline, which is the most crucial wheel-alignment reference.

Ray

Interesting feedback thanks Ray.

The very experienced guy who assembled it highlighted that the pulley, key and shaft fit is very tight so I'm not so convinced that a tiny 3mm grub screw binding onto a point perhaps 1-2mm across would stop any rock, even if it was there? It is also evident that the main bolt kind of compresses the whole lot down again minimising chances of movement.

Food for though though.

Take your point on string lining. I use this as a guide to alignment and assuming the frame isn't twisted the wheels should be very, very closely aligned. You're right though that ensuring the front wheel is dead straight is critical- I use straps to hold it in place and adjust. Having said this, ultimately the way the belt runs on the pulley under normal conditions is the final test. It will find its own position and my theory is if it runs dead centre, you are damn close to perfect?