Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[rayivers]

The Honda 45105-MY6-415 brake shoes (Nissin TT2501HH, for '15 CRF250R among many others) went on the 5.7 FX today.  The OEM ones that came off were Nissin TT2508HH.  The new ones look metallic, the old ones probably organic (to my non-expert eyes).

The first hard application the brakes made the same noise as before, and the second time it was even louder.  So much for the bad news. The next 30+ (hard!) applications to dead stops were totally silent, and the brake progressed from the 3-finger unit it was before to the one-finger brake it is now.  It seems identical to the one on my YZ, which was more than I'd hoped for.  Time to start standing this thing up! (not).

Hopefully this behavior will continue, so far so good.

Ray

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Nissin TT2508HH pads are also on the 2013 and 2014 DS model. I'll order the Honda brakes in the hopes of awesome silent braking. Thanks!

[rayivers]

Brian,

My front brake is still a work in progress.  The Honda pads mentioned in this thread continued to have good stopping power, but the noise gradually returned, albeit at a much lower level than before.  The Yamaha 5XC-W0045-00-00 pads (Nissin TT2952HH) I'm using now have less stopping power, but the noise is even lower than the Honda pads.  I also tried LocTite Disc Brake Quiet with little success, but I should've removed the front wheel to use it as the caliper scrapes off the DBQ as the pads are slid in.

At this point I really think it's a design thing, and not the pads alone.  I may try floating the front brake rotor, but I've got to get my forks squared away first.

Ray

[kphonik]

Gotta say Im happy Im not the only one dealing with this same issue. Im on my third set of front pads at 600 miles on my 15 FX and it goes to the dealer next week so they can start looking at the rotor next.

Seems like an odd problem to deal with on a new ride when you consider how common disc brakes are compared to the rest of the bike :-)

Im just happy I can keep riding while we figure this out!

[kphonik]

It occurred to me this morning that I live in Nascar country and the guys at the race shops have probably seen just about everything. Call up these guys (http://prosystembrakes.com/) and after a few minutes on the phone the tech felt that the issue is with the rotor.

I've free spun the wheel a good bit to see if I could hear a warped noise but the guy at Pro System made the point that it can be warped so very slightly that it's NOT visually detectable and would not be apparent when free spinning because the deviation is so small that the pads are only affected when they're fully applied.

These guys have brake dynos that are capable of diagnosing this on larger discs but nothing for a relatively tiny motorcycle setup. So he suggested I pull the rotor and have it looked at by a brake shop with the right tool.

So I may try to do that today. Anything I need to know about the FX before I drop the front wheel off? I've never pulled a wheel from a bike with ABS and I'd really like to avoid damaging it :-)

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I'll clarify that my front brake pads lasted 14,000 miles until they were worn enough to have to replace, because I've set regen pretty high in Eco mode (80%). They've always had a tendency to squeal a bit, but usually they just need a quick wipe clean.

[Manzanita]

So I changed front brake pads (and master cylinder) trying to address the lack of brake modulation on my 2014 Zero S. My thought was I wanted the most basic organic brake pad material, and so I chose to try out these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B0X504M and they work great (or terrible, depending on what you want). The modulation is much improved, I can go into turns feathering the brakes on and off without feeling like my fingers are hovering over an on-off switch. The amount of lever effort to fully stop the bike has definitely increased; it may improve as I bed these in more, but previous single finger stopping is now slow. Two fingers is nice, but practicing emergency stops it seemed like using my full hand was easier than two fingers.

I went to the trouble of changing my master cylinder also after I had a scare on my morning commute: I went into a turn too fast and admittedly grabbed the brakes too hard and got the bike to shudder just as I was leaning the bike in. Nothing bad happened, I held my line, but it was a wake-up call for me. Without engine braking, the bike depends on good brake modulation. I'm sure other 'low end' organic brake pads will modulate better than the HH (semi-metallic) pads that came OEM on my bike. Worst case this is a $6.99 experiment that doesn't work for you, but for me they improved the bike feel immensely... but bordering on not strong enough. They may bed in more and improve.

ps. I'd do the pads first, but this is the master cylinder I installed: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121433864168. The key is that it has a 10mm piston instead of 13mm, so they will improve brake feel (it reduces brake pad travel per unit brake lever travel). Needed these adapters for a mirror mount http://www.ebay.com/itm/221797471482. I also added a mirror extender as the mirror mount is now on the inside of the bar. The weaker pads may in fact work better with the OEM master cylinder, but this would be a 'stage 2' mod. The difference was subtle but noticeable.