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[NEW2elec]

Ashnazg way to go man!  Nice job and thanks for sharing to help others with the install.

MVetter so with the bike off and unpluged of course is there any dangers to safety for a novice digging around in there (following instructions of course)?
Also is there an option to still use the 110 side plug if someone just wants to replace their onboard charger with a 3.3 unit?

[MVetter]

The area you must be most careful is attaching the ring lugs to the controller. Please make sure the bike has been turned off for at least 20 minutes to minimize the chance of there still being zappy juice in there. Between Brandon, Terry, me, and others in our immediate circle I remain the only one who has not shocked himself working on these bikes so far but I'm sure it's coming eventually. I suggest a socket wrench so you minimize chance of shorting any terminals against each other.

The other thing is I am informed the controller has soft metal inside, so only tighten things down to about 8-10 ft lbs of torque. Snug, but don't treat it like a tire lug nut or anything.

We strongly urge people to remove that inlet. It's dangerous. We've had 2 create arc flashes and one literally ejected itself at high speeds into the shop wall. If you need to plug into walls we have adapters for everything.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

FYI https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Install_Charging_Circuit_At_Controller

[ashnazg]

We strongly urge people to remove that inlet. It's dangerous. We've had 2 create arc flashes and one literally ejected itself at high speeds into the shop wall. If you need to plug into walls we have adapters for everything.

Which inlet do you mean?  The leftover brown one that the stock charger was connected to?

[NEW2elec]

Nah the 110 stock 3 prong inlet on the side on the bike.  I saw Newzeroland remove it but I was kind of hoping that part could stay and work with the 3.3 unit.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Nah the 110 stock 3 prong inlet on the side on the bike.  I saw Newzeroland remove it but I was kind of hoping that part could stay and work with the 3.3 unit.

The onboard C14 inlet not really properly rated for the weather conditions, only barely rated for the current draw of the onboard charger, and absolutely not rated for the 3.3 unit.

[NEW2elec]

Yeah it couldn't pull 3.3kw but the V2.5 can adjust to the 1.3 wall supply right? 
I get that the C14 isn't the best way to connect but I was thinking ahead for, if or when, my onboard dies.  I was looking at or hoping to replace the onboard with the 3.3 since it would be a better move than another Greenwatt.  After looking at the V2.5 I see it couldn't just be placed under the current pan any way so the whole belly pan setup would be needed.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Yeah it couldn't pull 3.3kw but the V2.5 can adjust to the 1.3 wall supply right? 
I get that the C14 isn't the best way to connect but I was thinking ahead for, if or when, my onboard dies.  I was looking at or hoping to replace the onboard with the 3.3 since it would be a better move than another Greenwatt.  After looking at the V2.5 I see it couldn't just be placed under the current pan any way so the whole belly pan setup would be needed.

That C14 inlet is just going to give you trouble. It's not constructed well (having had a few people with professional electrical assess mine and others') and will produce the same overheating and contribute to arcing problems that plague the OEM charger.

Keep it and whatever plugs into it clean, and ensure the prongs stay straight, and use an overrated (15A) hospital grade cord to supply power. But I did all that and my onboard charger still failed.

I wish I had a better answer, but the frame opening is specific to that kind of inlet so can't accommodate a C19, say.