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[nzap1]

Hi All,

I am in the process of rebuilding my 2010 Zero DS battery using Nissan Leaf modules and would appreciate some help diagnosing BMS beep code 53. There doesn't seem to be a BMS code database for the early S/DS's, so I'm looking for any thoughts on what the code might mean.

I purchased the bike with the controller, battery, and harness in a big box and managed to get it going with the help of the wiring diagrams on this forum. Initially I used some FX cells and had to bypass the BMS so that I could test drive the bike without the BMS shutting it down.

Originally I wasn't to worried because I thought the code was related to a cell imbalance in my old cells, but my leaf modules are within .01v of each other and are at 4.08v and the BMS just keeps beeping. I have checked the BMS harness and replaced a resistor to no avail, so I decided it was time to determine what the code actually means.

I could bypass the BMS and install an aftermarket one with Bluetooth, so I can monitor cell balance, but ultimately I would prefer to keep the original one going if I can.

Thanks in advance!

[Two2010Ss]

I'm not able to offer much help, but if you get an error code, does that mean your BMS has the CAN cables connected to the MBB? My 2010 S is disconnected and looks like: https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1600/1*EDrd8dzInPGWAMgAGxlu7A.jpeg . Wonder if Zero made changes to the boards as the year went on... I don't think I've ever seen a BMS error code print out/displayed anywhere

You might be able to putty into the BMS for more information? I was able to here: https://medium.com/@ryan.mcneely_93025/hacking-a-2010-zero-s-electric-motorcycle-part-2-bms-initial-results-7f399977270

[Two2010Ss]

If the BMS leads are the same colors, you could compare against https://medium.com/@ryan.mcneely_93025/restoring-a-second-2010-zero-s-5b93c4f07b2c

[nzap1]

Thanks for the reply and the links! It looks like you are working through many of the same issues on your two 2010 S's that I am having with my DS (including the motor temp sensor).

I am by no means an electrical expert, but I will try to explain things as I understand them.   

As far as I have been able to determine, the BMS units used in the 48 volt Zeros simply close a circuit within the MBB when things are as they should be (no error codes). In the event that the BMS senses an issue, the circiut remains open (similar to when the kickstand is down), the MBB displays a generic BMS code, and the MBB will not trigger the contactor. I suspect there is no CAN communication between the MBB and the BMS. This lack of CAN communication may be the reason why the BMS uses its own beep trouble codes.

My 2009 X used the same BMS, as the DS does, and in that case the BMS strictly acted to complete the contactor circuit. Only it didn't do this successfully because it was so very fried and crispy.

To bypass the BMS, on the DS, I simply ran a jumper wire between the brown and black wires on the six pin BMS connector (I by no means endorse this) and the MBB was happy enough for me to go for a test ride.

Thanks for suggesting putty, I will look into trying it. If I remember right the saying goes perturb and observe.

[Two2010Ss]

Ah, so by 53, you're talking ". . . . . _ _ _" pattern of beeps. I've used this diagram twice now with no issues: https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/800/1*ZKUDpK8SH4R6IcbreiqoLA.png . You're using 7 Leaf batteries? The voltage should be closer to 56V

[craigster]

Did you figure anything out? I took apart my battery and after a couple months am putting it all back together. when connecting the BMS I get the 5-3 Beep code too not sure what it is...

[nzap1]

Hey Craigster,

I never did have any luck getting the Zero BMS to stop beeping. The 2010 DS owners manual (Copies are available if you need one) gives a few common beep codes and states

"If the BMS in your power pack produces an error beep
which is not described in the Beep Patterns
Table, then the power pack has encountered a
serious internal hardware problem and must be
repaired or replaced by a CSC."

My local CSC is great, but I think they would charge more than I paid for the bike to make a diagnosis.

After spending a few hours messing with the BMS and not getting anywhere I decided to bypass the factory unit and go for an aftermarket one with Bluetooth connectivity. I had never been comfortable relying on the "fuel" gauge, so I saw this as an opportunity to upgrade (Nissan leaf cells behave somewhat different than the original Molicels).

The BMS unit I purchased allows me to monitor pack temperature, as well as cell balance and voltage. The main downside of bypassing the factory BMS is the elimination of the low voltage cutoff function, so I don't necessarily recommend it.

If anyone finds a better aftermarket BMS solution (one that works with the Zero MBB), I would appreciate hearing about it. 
 
Hope this helps!

[craigster]

Thanks for getting back to me, after hours of screwing around I found that one of the pins going into the BMS wasn't making a good connection. Only found this out when just about giving up and just started wiggling wires. Thanks for the reply though and glad to hear your new BMS worked well!