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[Le Z Turbo]

I think I found our rear shock model here:
http://www.fastace.com/product_detail.php?cid=2&sid=6&pid=107&hc1=1

and the fork shares similarity with this one: http://www.fastace.com/product_detail.php?cid=2&sid=6&pid=96&hc1=1

As Fastace is mainly doing mini-bike suspensions I was able to found some "how to" but not very documented and always insisting on the poor quality of this brand of rear shocks !!!

We'll see on the Zero !!!

[Richard230]

Last year I posted a link on the 2012 forum to a detailed set of instructions describing how to change the oil in the Fast Ace front suspension.  It sure sounded a lot more complicated and difficult than anything that I have done servicing damper-rod design motorcycle forks.   

My Fast Ace forks still seem to be working fine, so I am leaving them alone for now.  I have learned over the years that, if things are working well, it is best not to mess with them.   

[Le Z Turbo]

Oh that's interesting, do you still have the link on the fork servicing ?
Have a good week end
Laurent

[Richard230]

Well, as it turns out I forethought to copy the instructions and filed them in my computer.  Here it is:

How to service: Fast Ace Inverted Forks

Tools you will need:

6mm Allen wrench
5mm Allen wrench
(2) 17mm open end wrenches
15/16 low socket
Plastic bucket
Metric measuring container
Fork siphon or syringe

Name-brand 20wt synthetic fork oil, or 80wt gear oil with anti-shear additives (which has the same consistency as 20wt fork oil)

A battery-powered impact gun might be helpful.

Here we Go:

(1) Start off by removing only one of your fork legs at a time. This because some may get confused regarding which is the left and right fork and it will help when setting the proper fork height alignment when reinstalling.

(2) With the fork leg removed and in a vertical position:

(3) Remove the top cap with a 15/16 standard short socket carefully, while it is still vertical. With this done and the top cap off, slowly pull the cap up until about 6 inches of the spring is visible and let gravity drain the oil into a plastic bucket. You can pour a flushing compound, like kerosene, into the fork and flush them out a couple of times to get all the contaminants out that might cling inside. Then let the fork tube hang for a while to be sure that no residual oil is left inside.

(4) After a few minutes, take a clean rag and wipe off the two nuts below the cap and draw a mark on both nuts across from each other. This is done to ensure that you get the correct height adjustment of the metering rod (dampening rod) back to the original position.

(5) Now take the two 17mm wrenches and unscrew the top cap from the spring assembly (counting the number of turns you made past the marks on the nuts) and slowly separate the assembly (making sure not to bend or damage the dampening rod):

(6) Completely remove the rod and set it aside (again do not drop or bend the rod) and let the rest of the fork assembly gravity drain into the plastic bucket for 5 minutes or so. Now take the fork leg while over the bucket and slowly pump the fork tube in and out and you will notice (where the dampening rod goes in) that the oil will drain out of both it and also the lower fork tube. Do this many many times until no more oil comes out. ( Don’t worry about the spring assembly falling out as its attached to the lower leg with an Allen bolt.)

The next step is to pour (between 75cc and 100cc of 20wt fork oil – for riders weighing between 150 and 200 pounds) the fork oil into the measuring cup, suck it out of the cup with the syringe and slowly squirt the  oil into the fork as detailed below.
 
(7) Now with 99.9% of the used fork oil drained and the fork tube in the collapsed position and standing vertical: Fill the fork (siphon/syringe) and start adding fork oil to dampening rod tube. Continue this till all 75cc----150cc of fork oil is used. This might take 3 or 4 times squirting with the syringe (DO THIS VERY SLOWLY AS NOT TO GET IT ALL OVER THE PLACE OR IN YOUR EYES):

( Now with the fork tube assembly still vertical, let the oil settle for a few minutes and it will partially bleed itself of air bubbles ( not completely). Now carefully wipe down the dampening rod and cap assembly and insert it slowly down the dampening tube. Then thread it back together counting the number of turns from dis-assembly and tighten the cap back to the marks you made on the two nuts until they are opposite from each other. Finally, carefully use the 15/16 shallow socket to screw the top cap back into the fork tube so it looks like it did before you started. Taking photos before you start and during the dis-assembly process will help with re-assembly.

Team Mini Me/Moto Nutrition #38
Factory Support From:
Pitster Pro
SGR Racing
Factory Connection Suspension
Fly Gear
Spy Optics
TORCO Oil

2006 TWMX Masters of Mini Stock Class Champion

[craigq]

There are videos on YouTube also

Part I


Part II

[nicktulloh]

OMG, don't anyone tell Lola that Zero is using the same suspension as that used in some mini-bikes! He'll be complaining that they're not Ohlins right away, even if they work fine.   

[upgarage]

They're not Ohlins and they leave alot to be desired.

I WILL be figuring out how to get some Swedish magic into my dampers, one way or another.

Cane Creek offers an Ohlins damper for my older MX. It is downhill stuff and works great but won't handle the weight of anything new. It should go the other way, newer should be lighter and faster, not just faster.

It would be sweet if there was a performance damper option for our bikes. Maybe there is and I don't know about it?

[Richard230]

Thanks for the videos Craigq.  They are very informative. But couldn't Fast Ace make the oil change process a little more complicated. That is just too easy.     

I much prefer the damper-rod forks that have an oil drain plug in the bottom of the fork.  You drain the oil out and pour new oil into the top of the forks after removing the fork tube cap.  My daughter's 1981 R65LS has forks like this (as did my 1994 CB750) and it only takes me about 20 minutes to replace the oil in both forks, start to finish.

After seeing these videos, I have decided to just buy a new motorcycle when my Fast Ace forks need their oil changed.   

BTW, is there a part 3 that shows how the fork is reassembled after pouring oil down the tube?  Also, that girl handling the camera could use a little instruction on how to keep the camera still and focus on the subject at hand.  Finally, what was that green conveyor belt running along in front of the workman?  Is that where loose parts get to roll on to and are sent to some other location of the Fast Ace factory.   

[NoiseBoy]

Bit of an overreaction Richard.  Sounds about right for a modern fork to me.   Maybe all engines should be pushrod because they are easier than timing a chain.

[Richard230]

Bit of an overreaction Richard.  Sounds about right for a modern fork to me.   Maybe all engines should be pushrod because they are easier than timing a chain.

Well, I have only owned two IC engines with pushrods.  One was a 1969 Garelli 125 and the other was a 1971 Triumph Bonneville.  Both engines were not very good.  But I have no real issue with damper-rod forks.  They work OK for my type of riding and are sure a lot easier to service and maintain than cartridge male-slider type forks.

[craigq]

Bit of an overreaction Richard.  Sounds about right for a modern fork to me.   Maybe all engines should be pushrod because they are easier than timing a chain.

Hmmm... pushrod engines still have a timing chain, the timing still has to be set up to get the engine running properly, I don't get it ...