I agree; fall, winter, maybe early spring is the time to be there. Beautiful and peaceful.
One thing I noticed with the bike being so quiet is that I could hear all the, ahem, revelry going on around me
And the place was CRAWLING with cops, with more state troopers than the usual county sheriffs even. Once I got past 3rd crossing, though, there were fewer campgrounds (and they seemed to be farther away from the road), and it was quite pleasant. My g/f wanted to go, too, but I don't have the passenger peg option; at $350 and on backorder I think I'm going to have to make myself some. She's undeservedly missed a couple of nice rides, though now that we got her ICE bike running here in the last few days, I'll probably just trailer them both up there next time.
As for the seal leaks, you'd notice them I think. I had an oil spot on my rim after it was parked one day, and the lower fork/axle clamp was covered in it.