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[DonTom]

Since after a home charge yesterday, I've been getting a "B1000" fault. The screen sometimes says "headlight position error" and sometimes "front beam fault".


All lights are working fine. I see no problems other than this error message.


I already tried a VCM reboot, but I  still have the same error message,


What could be causing this error?


2020 Esse Esse 9-, FW version: EN.A.002616.042


-Don-  Auburn, CA

[chisquare]

Never had that issue but found an earlier thread that is quite informative: https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=12732.0

[DonTom]

Never had that issue but found an earlier thread that is quite informative: https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=12732.0

Thanks for that info.


Look like I just have to live with it.  And it wasn't long after the FW update that it started to happen.  Once in a while, the alarm goes away for a few seconds or so.  Some value the FW is looking for must be right at the edge.


This is the first bug I have noticed on my SS9-. I have not ridden it much after the FW update until lately.


-Don-  Auburn, CA

[joesedroid]

Hello, Yes, this was me for about 6-8 months. I replaced the License plate bulb about 3 times but didnt fix it. I had it shipped to Energica/California for about 5 different items and they found a loose wire. Not seen the issue in 3000 miles.
So, must have been it.
"Lighting faults - It appears the bike was correctly throwing faults as the current draw of the brake light being measured was below the allowable range. It appears the brake / running light connector was not fully seated causing these inconsistent current draw readings. After identifying and correcting that I have been unable to recreate the faults."
Joe

[SBK74]

My first thought was as well a not properly seated connector. It could also be a semi broken common wire under movenemt of handlebar. Or something in the high beam switch, where also the headlight wiring is.

[DonTom]

Hello, Yes, this was me for about 6-8 months. I replaced the License plate bulb about 3 times but didnt fix it. I had it shipped to Energica/California for about 5 different items and they found a loose wire. Not seen the issue in 3000 miles.
So, must have been it.
"Lighting faults - It appears the bike was correctly throwing faults as the current draw of the brake light being measured was below the allowable range. It appears the brake / running light connector was not fully seated causing these inconsistent current draw readings. After identifying and correcting that I have been unable to recreate the faults."
Joe

Do you know which loose wire that was--where it is located? 



On my SS9, the error message will go out once in a while, with bike not being moved at all, bike on side stand, but for perhaps a second or  two in every 30 seconds or so. Kinda random when the bike is not being moved.  When I wiggle wires and move the handlebars, nothing changes. Equally as random.


-Don-  Auburn, CA

[DonTom]

Problem found!  :


I noticed the lic plate light was not as bright as it should be and was flickering and occasionally going to full brightness and then the indicator went out for a few seconds as it did.


Then,  I used my own 12-volt battery (BTW, the brown wire is positive and the blue wire is negative) and it did the same thing; the current was mostly around one-third of one ma and was jumpy.


So I got a 1K-ohm resistor and put it on the lic plate wire connector on the bike to fool it.  That draws around 12.5 ma @12.5 volts. The alarm is totally gone with the resistor as a load.




So all I need is a new lic plate light.




So it was no false alarm. I only need a new lic. plate light!  The LED inside must be flakey.  I cannot see any reasonable way to get inside the lic plate light unit itself, without breaking it apart.


-Don-  Auburn, CA

[DonTom]

Here is an update in case somebody else needs a quick-fix for this issue.


The connector on the bike side is white for positive and black for negative. Lamp side changes to brown for positive and blue for negative.


The perfect value to get rid of the alarm is 1.1K-ohm which will draw 11.6 ma.  I used two 2.2K ohm resistors in parallel. This is without the lic plate lamp connected. Just a little higher than this value will leave the alarm on.


I discovered we can get into the lamp assembly. It can be pushed out of the case. It's rather complicated for a simple LED light. Has an IC in there and other small parts.


Anyway, wiggling things inside made no difference to my problem. It's not a loose external connection or solder joint issue or anything that can be easily repaired. So I will be ordering a new lic plate light and just leave the resistors in there for now.




-Don-  Auburn, CA

[DonTom]

I have the lic plate light assembly back on the bike with no alarm. The light still flickers but works somewhat.


Photo of my final fix before soldering &  putting it back on the bike (two 2.2K-ohm resistors in parallel).


I just need to order a new lic plate light assembly.


-Don-  Auburn, CA

[jotjotde]

Congratulations for finding the bug and thanks for letting us know. Good work!

[chisquare]

An excellent find indeed! Many thanks on behalf of all future B1000-error troubleshooters.

[Specter]

If loose wiring is not the issue try to see that something is not rubbed raw and touching the case somewhere, causing a current drain to ground / chassis.  I was having similar issues on my Ribelle with the lights,  turns out the one that I replaced, I didn't route the wire right, and it eventually rubbed and would occasionally touch the handlebar metal and throw that fault.  Another issue I found was after 'fixing' a dropped bike / light damage, the board in back of it, the connector was damaged and I didn't see it,and that caused the problems until I just replaced the whole light assembly and that fixed it.

Aaron

[DonTom]

I received my lic plate light a few days ago from AF1 Racing. Didn't take long after ordering.  I just installed it and it is much brighter than the old one and no flickering. And no errors, with no resistors.


I will keep my old lic plate light assembly just in case the new one craps out someday (unlikely, IMO) as it already has the resistors to clear the error and only takes a minute to change.


-Don-  Auburn, CA