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[MyFirstElectric]

Using waterproof connectors is wise, not because you intend to take your bike in the ocean, clear.
I got myself a box of them also.
But: I just realized, not mine and none I find on amazon, are rated for >25A MAXXX (and only if you squeeze silicone wiring into the connectors like I do, which can sustain 200C).

Well, Fardriver controllers (and others too) will push through some connections 370A or more (mine is limited to 370A).

How do you solve this conundrum for your chosen connectors? Or don't you pay attention to Amps?
If you do, have you got links to higher rated waterproof connectors?

[TheRan]

Well the connections from the controller to the motor are bolted, and the controller is presumably waterproof (or resistant at least) and the terminals are far enough apart and the controller shouldn't be out in the open so some light rain shouldn't be an issue. Still you could slap some dielectric grease on them if you wanted.

[MyFirstElectric]

I would even use waterproof connectors if you live in California. It's always wise. Over time, splash water wrecks havoc on electrics.
Thankfully no connections are bolted, what do you mean?
I can only swap a controller if I take out the prior, insufficient one.
If your existing wiring does not use quick connectors, you may have to cut the wires, then replace new wiring with quick connectors (waterproof) and interchange which side you put female and which side you put male, so that in future you cannot possibly connect wrong wires.   

In any case, the question is about AMPS, which connectors do you all use that can bear enough amps?

Key wire: the 3 phase current wires between (Fardriver) CONTROLLER and MOTOR: 370A max
Key wire: the wires between battery and controller: 100A (in my case).

If all of you ride Zero here (?), then I don't know what Amps it can push through? But I know what mine can push through (and someone called it sth like "underpowered", lol).

Once we have some sun / dryness, I plan to make new connections (I can only work this outside).

Did anyone here yet explain how comes that even QS motor wires (top brand again) only are like 2.5mm2(?) / 13AWG?
I don't understand how the controller can push 370A max through such small phase wiring?
What I am missing here?
But again, not to digress, the question of this thread is about MAX AMPS waterproof connectors you found and use?

[TheRan]

The Fardriver 72360 that you have, and any other motor controller over a few thousand watts, uses bolted connections for the battery and motor connections. Those metal posts on the top of it with the coloured rings around them are threaded, you place a ring terminal over them that will be crimped to your wires and then bolt it down. It's the easiest way to provide a connection that will handle high current. The Sevcon controllers used in Zeros are exactly the same.

[Specter]

If you really want it secure, solder it down, then pot it with sealant of choice.

aaron

[ESokoloff]

A screwed clamp connection is what I would recommend for high amps. 
Crimped is fine for lower amps (less then 7.5a)

[MyFirstElectric]

I have now received this box of waterproof connectors (at least sold as such),
but as it's raining all the time, I haven't installed the Fardriver connector yet
(which is what I got them for, to redo all the wiring, you know):

(hmmm, I can't remember how I added images earlier, now the upload only attaches them... let's see)

[TheRan]

Those certainly aren't going to take 370A, so don't use them on the wires going to the motor. For that just use the included wires straight from the motor to the controller. If for some reason you need to extend them then use the same gauge wire with ring terminals on the end and bolt the connection together, or solder it if possible.

[MyFirstElectric]

Those certainly aren't going to take 370A, so don't use them on the wires going to the motor. For that just use the included wires straight from the motor to the controller. If for some reason you need to extend them then use the same gauge wire with ring terminals on the end and bolt the connection together, or solder it if possible.

Oh, okay, thanks for the tips! I had indeed planned to use quick connectors everywhere. But I get your point that some wires should better be left as wires-only.

How many amps can the above connectors safely handle?
I won't be maxing out the Fardriver's 370A under any circumstances: My current motor (stock in the Citicoco) can handle only 4000W peak. I was thinking to replace it with a different QS motor (again), that can handle 8000W, but I have to take small steps updating my bike, as I am new to everything. I only learned of Fardriver and QS motors end of 2023, and only now beginning of 2024 that actually there are better controllers out there than Fardriver.... (though Fardriver is pretty good, I am not to complain - yet).

I THINK I will use the Android Fardriver app (unstable, the Chinese vendor said, but I have no iphone) and limit battery current to 100A (has 100A Ant BMS) and phase current to sth that doesn't heat up the motor windings... (whatever that Amps are). I will try to find out by adding a temperature sensor from the outside (my stock QS unfortunately has no temp sensor, the Chinese vendor saved on the extra cost).

I learned on the Ukrainian RideBikeShop pages that whatever the rim temperature (if alu), the motor temperature will be ~50C higher. I will go with that figure. 

[MVetter]

Just use Andersons or knockoff Andersons.

[MyFirstElectric]

Yes, I have ordered 2 175A Andersons (or at least the Chinese sell them as such). 

I figured that most high amp draws will be short-lived: going up a hill.
With my new power display I will be able to see how many amps each riding condition takes (once the rain stops, and once I magnify the stupid tiny display to be able to read it at all!!).

I aim to optimize my riding style, to use least power when going on the long road trips in the summer.

Hey listen, learning lesson: I learned already that, before, I was using 35W/km. Now I am down to UNDER 25W/km. Riding style is everything! Amazing. I ASSUME, the Fardriver controller will make it more efficient, still.

(I don't even know if the current stock controller has recuperation)

[Specter]

Check with a fork lift shop, they have connectors up to like 300 to 500 amps for disconnecting and charging those huge batteries.

Aaron