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[Valen]

@Valen: I have a complete set of nice indicators here waiting to be installed as well. So I promise, I will die trying 

Just as @Demoni suggested I looked at the fuse box yesterday and attached some pics. The fuse box is underneath the right top fairing which is helt by 5 screws only.

There are 7 fuses, according to my manual (RIbelle RS '22) they are for the following functions.
1. Vehicle control unit 30 A
2. Power train controller 10 A
3. ABS valves 15 A
4. ABS pump 25 A
5. Charge manager, connectivity hub, OBD 10 A
6. USB and heated grips 10 A
7. E-Keyless 10 A

The No.7 totally surprised me, because I do not have a keyless system! Does anyone know why? Is this circuit active even without keyless?

My plan is to tap into the No.6 circuit just at the fuse box with this wire tap    https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html.
Does that sound right? I am open for other suggestions!

Cost cutting they just don t bother developping another fuse box 

[jotjotde]

@Valen: You are probably right. I will have to see if the wires of fuse #7 are live.

@All: I remembered Don and others already discussed about 12 V supply. As an info for anyone looking for a suitable 12V supply point, refer to this post. Some reading to do, but I think it's awesome info.

https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?PHPSESSID=619261556c253cd529f873807bbcf6b0&topic=8846.30

[Demoni]

The No.7 totally surprised me, because I do not have a keyless system! Does anyone know why? Is this circuit active even without keyless?

Fuse #7 on the EVA provides power to key and keyless ignition units.

My plan is to tap into the No.6 circuit just at the fuse box (red cable) with this wire tap    https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html.
Does that sound right? I am open for other suggestions!

Fuse #6 is my go to suggestion for providing power to external 12V devices. You can tap the wire exiting the fuse box just make sure you tap the side that is protected by the fuse. Alternatively creating a Y splitter that pugs into the 2 pin connector at the USB port will also work.


The Experia wiring is different and has accommodations for external 12V built in. Page 102 of the owners manual covers this information. Fuses 7,8 & 9 provide power to the 2x amp seal connectors located just below the fuse box. In addition there is a JST JWPF connector located behind the dash surround intended for providing power to a GPS unit.

[chisquare]

@Demoni Excellent detail information. Much appreciated!

[jotjotde]

SUCCESS! (at least partial)

With the Kellermann iSED I managed to get the motogadget mo.blaze ice indicators running. They have approx. 3 W each, compared to 1,9 W of the original ones.
https://motogadget.com/products/mo-blaze-ice
The Kellermann thingies only needed to be installed at the rear.
https://www.kellermann-online.com/en/detail/e281c9762fb441c4a2c23b94fbe56f28
Beware, they make a clicking noise when they work.

These indicators have the big advantage of being visible from the side (other than the original ones). So I regard this as a safety upgrade besides being more stylish.


As a side note for anyone who is interested, I have to report that I could not get running the more powerful indicators I have. I am not an electrician and how these Kellermanns operate is totally beyond me. But when I attached the high wattage indicators with the Kellermanns, they blinked frantically and the error code was visible. I regard this as a sign that the bike's system detected a current being too low and thus assumed one faulty device. I tried to mitigate this with a 25 W resistor, but then only one indicator (the one without the resistor) was flashing.
So maybe a 10 W resistor might be working...

[jotjotde]

Short video

[Valen]

You are my hero 

You plugged the thingie on the USB/heatgrip?

You don't have any error code of the dash when the indicators are flashing?

[jotjotde]

Thx for the praise 

Yes, plugged into the fuse box at fuse #6 (USB+heatgrips) as suggested by Demoni.
Used something like this -  don't know how this is called in English: https://www.altecautomotive.co.uk/add-a-circuit-standard-fuse-blade-size-add-a-circuit-fuse-holders--altfh450-1-01-4728-p.asp
Note: You need the 'mini' version.

No error messages so far.

[Specter]

just be careful when using fuse splitters like that, that you do not overall overload the circuit.  If the original fuse was rated at 30 Amp, Id not run more than say 35 amp MAX on the entire thing really.  Just because you put a new fuse in there does not mean the wiring going TO the thing can handle a lot of extra load you added with the additional circuit.  Even running the original AT the rated power of the fuse, for hours at a time, in the long run, will still burn it up over time.

Aaron

[Demoni]

As a side note for anyone who is interested, I have to report that I could not get running the more powerful indicators I have. I am not an electrician and how these Kellermanns operate is totally beyond me. But when I attached the high wattage indicators with the Kellermanns, they blinked frantically and the error code was visible. I regard this as a sign that the bike's system detected a current being too low and thus assumed one faulty device. I tried to mitigate this with a 25 W resistor, but then only one indicator (the one without the resistor) was flashing.
So maybe a 10 W resistor might be working...

Glad to hear the Kellermanns allowed you to install the moto gadget signals. They use the voltage signal that would normally power the bikes turn signals to activate a relay (mechanical or digital) to provide the new turn signals with power from a external source (heated grip circuit). This takes the load off the turn signal circuit preventing the bike from turning the circuit off due to it drawing too much current.

As the turn signal circuit is no longer powering the OEM signals the bike is measuring a current draw on that circuit that is too low. This causes a open circuit fault to be displayed on the dash and also results in the turn signals flashing at a higher rate. To solve this you need to match the load using resistors of the bikes turn signal circuit to that drawn by the OEM turn signals. The 25W resistor you installed is creating a over current situation for the turn signal circuit, you need to replace that with a correctly matched resistor. Ideally you would also compensate for the current draw of the Kellermanns, but I suspect this number is so small it will not make a difference.

If each OEM turn signal draws 1.9W then each side of the bike draws 3.8W. If you have one of the 3W turn signals being powered by the circuit you will need to use a resistor to dissipate the other .8W. You would need to use a 180 Ohm resistor to match the load*.

*That number is based on the information you shared. Make sure you verify the current draw of the OEM and aftermarket signals (@ 12V).

[jotjotde]

@Aaron:
Thx! Now I know it's called a fuse splitter 
The split adds its own fuse, so the old and the new circuit should be safe.

@Demoni
Thx for the prime info (as always) about the resistors.
Before I try and error and end up with a bunch of different resistors, I thought I will get me a potentiometer in the right Ohm range and try to find out what's really needed.
A project for the dark winter afternoons 
I promise I will report the results.

At the time being I am happy with the Motogadgets. Bright and visible from all around.

[Specter]

jojotide -  Yes it adds a new fuse, but the POWER to that fuse comes off the same ONE ONLY plug that the original one plugged into.
So basically it's like one of those extension cords that instead of having one female end, has 2 ends so you can plug 2 items in, but they STILL come off the ONE same male plug.

Given this, the wire that brings the power to that ONE ORIGINAL plug that everything, the old and your new addition is being powered with, was designed with the rating of that ORIGINAL fuse in mind.

So lets say the original fuse was 30 amps, it's probably 10 Ga, maybe 12 Ga wire to it.  Just because you split it and have 2 fuses that total 45 amps does not mean it's safe because there are 2 fuses in there now.  The WIRE can handle the 30 amps of the original setup, NOT necessarily 45 amps, the new setup.  You'll burn it up.

Let me try to reword this.
Whatever fuse you add to the second circuit you put in there.  Honestly, Id not go above 15 to 20 percent of the rating of the original fuse.  So if your original fuse was 30 amps, Id not go above 5 or 6 amps with the new fuse. 

Whatever you end up doing, watch for heat CAREFULLY, especially on hotter days when you don't have a crisp wind to help dissipate it.  Wiring harness don't like a lot of heat and when you burn one of them up,you are not just replacing one bad socket, you'll be replacing the entire harness / box.  Got a few grand laying around?

Aaron

[jotjotde]

@Aaron I hear you. Thx for your concern.

After finishing the cablework I switched emergency flashing on and let it run for some time to check if that triggers error codes.
Checked the temperature of the added relays and cables and could no find anything that felt warm. OK, that's not an all-confirming test.
In the end, the new indicators add about 4 Watt per side. In my understanding the circuit is good for 120 Watt (12 Volt 10 Ampere), so I don't think it's a high risk.

But I agree, if I am trying to add more powerful stuff, I will have to take more care not to overload the circuits.