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[joesedroid]

So the last few rides Ive taken my GPS dies saying no power. I tried plugging other items into it with no power either. It still shows blue around the usb ports but is slowly flashes bright blue to dim blue Could it still be a fuse?
Thanks all
Joe

[DonTom]

So the last few rides Ive taken my GPS dies saying no power. I tried plugging other items into it with no power either. It still shows blue around the usb ports but is slowly flashes bright blue to dim blue Could it still be a fuse?
Thanks all
Joe

Possible, but unlikely. I have seen temperature sensitive hairline cracks in fuses, but it is very rare. More likely to be a poor connection. Could even be a fuse holder of a blade fuse, which is a rather common problem. If a blade fuse doesn't feel tight in the socket, bend in the thingies so it does.

The USB input is 12V, only 5V on the USB output. So it will be on a 12V fuse.

BTW, I do not use my stock USB. I think it is very stupid to have a USB port that limits what you can use it for. Makes the current very low, no access to the higher current capacity 12V. If it came with a stock 12 volt outlet, you can then buy a 12V to USB converter for a $1.25 at a dollar store and then have your choice of 12V or 5 VDC USB.

BTW, you can still do what I did. Wire in your own 12V plus USB with one of these thingies.

The tie wrap is just holding on to my garage door opener remote.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[joesedroid]

Thank you for that info. I did send a video to Energica and they are sending me a new USB. Not sure what all is involved in that, if its just the actual USB part or all the wiring but ill know soon.
Joe

[DonTom]

Thank you for that info. I did send a video to Energica and they are sending me a new USB. Not sure what all is involved in that, if its just the actual USB part or all the wiring but ill know soon.
Joe

IIRC, it goes to an inline socket that you plug into. I am not sure if you can get to it by just pulling the old one out from the top or if it's hassle to get to. It's been a while since I worked in that area of my Energicas.


-Don-  Auburn, CA

[Demoni]

Not sure what all is involved in that, if its just the actual USB part or all the wiring but ill know soon.
Joe

You will receive the complete USB unit as a replacement. It's a common form factor that looks like the one in the below link.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SKXX1J9/

The unit has threads on the outside and is secured to the dashboard support of the EsseEsse9 using a plastic nut. Removal of the headlight will provide you the best access to this nut and the wiring. First turn the bike off. Make a witness mark between the headlight and the headlight mounting bracket to ensure you can reattach it in the original orientation. Unbolt the 2 M8 (6mm allen) bolts securing the headlight, there are 2 puck shaped spacers between the headlight and the bracket. Gently unplug the connector from the back of the headlight. You should now have easy access to the USB port. Slide down the rubber boot to expose the 12V + & - spade connectors, unplug them. The plastic nut securing the USB port has tabs on the outside, you may be able to unscrew it by hand or use a flat bladed screwdriver or punch to gently tap to loosen. Install the new USB port and tighten the nut till secure. Reconnect the spade connectors paying attention to polarity, the USB port has marking on the underside indicating + & -. Ensure they are tight if loose you can pinch them gently with pliers. Slide the rubber boot back into place, reconnect the headlight and reinstall it (torque the bolts to 20Nm). Once everything is reconnected power up the bike and confirm the USB port lights up. It is possible the fuse protecting the circuit has been tripped. The fuse holder is located under the right side tank fairing. To remove unscrew the 5x bolts using a 3mm allen. The USB port is powered through fuse #6.

[joesedroid]

Awesome info. I dont think its the fuse the way it still turns blue when powered on and when I plug something into it the blue pulsates. Once every 20ish mins or so my GPS seems to think it got power and lights up 100% for a minute.
I did look at it and what you are describing is pretty much the exact way id attack it.
Thanks again!
Joe

[DonTom]

Awesome info. I dont think its the fuse the way it still turns blue when powered on and when I plug something into it the blue pulsates. Once every 20ish mins or so my GPS seems to think it got power and lights up 100% for a minute.
I did look at it and what you are describing is pretty much the exact way id attack it.
Thanks again!
Joe

Sounds like you could be exceeding the current capacity of the USB port. What model GPS is it? 


-Don-  Auburn, CA

[joesedroid]

Its the Garmin z?mo 396 LMT-S. I hope thats not the case. Ive had it on the bike since December. But that does seem like the symptoms.

[Specter]

This sounds stupid but...consider the source...

The USB port if it has 2 actual ports you can plug devices into.

some of them one is the high power ie it can do a full 2A the other a lower power, maybe only 1 or 1.5 amp.

If you got the dual port,try plugging it into the other one in case you happened to have picked the low power port.

Aaron

[joesedroid]

I was thinking that too, one may have more power or gone bad. But neither worked. I did remove it today to see if there were any complications to overcome but it came out very easy without taking off the headlight.. yet. It will be here tomorrow and should be plug and play.
Thanks!
Joe

[Demoni]

Its the Garmin zumo 396 LMT-S. I hope thats not the case. Ive had it on the bike since December. But that does seem like the symptoms.

The USB port on the bike is rated for 2A @ 5V. Looks like your GPS draws 2A.
It is possible that running the USB port at 100% of it's output caused a premature failure.

You might need to switch the USB port out for one that can supply more power.

[DonTom]

Its the Garmin zumo 396 LMT-S. I hope thats not the case. Ive had it on the bike since December. But that does seem like the symptoms.

The USB port on the bike is rated for 2A @ 5V. Looks like your GPS draws 2A.
It is possible that running the USB port at 100% of it's output caused a premature failure.

You might need to switch the USB port out for one that can supply more power.

Or better yet, replace it with a 12-volt receptacle (as Energica should have done to begin with, IMAO). Then you can plug in a higher current USB or use the 12V directly. And not all the power loss.


BTW, I run my Garmin 395 from the 12V plug on my SS9. but I modified the Garmin GPS cable to run from 5V on my Experia and it works well from the Experia stock USB port.


Even the 12V Garmin GPS cable converts to 5VDC. But I have the GPS power going into the cradle input (as they were designed for), not the USB input. I can very easily remove all my GPS units.


-Don-  Auburn, CA

[joesedroid]

Well, got the new one installed. Very easy didnt even pull the head light. Hardest part was the rubber cover that goes over the threads and electrical when all done.
So, as careful as I am.. and I never really ride in the rain. When washing I pull the GPS out and cover it but it still got wet.
Kinda concerned it would do it again.

[Specter]

Well DonDon, considering it runs off 12 volts, It seems it'd be very easy for one to throw an old cigarette lighter port in the same hole and then  plug in the USB charger of their own desires.

2A typically is at the higher end of what they typically offer unless you pay premium prices for one that is more powerful.  They tend to balk on that because they use terribly thin cable like 24 ga etc to bring the power down from the port TO your device and at 3A of DC, especially only 5 volts, the voltage drop tends to be HORRIBLE.

I suppose if one was handy with a soldering iron they could make one out of some 14 or 12 ga wire but still.
Better yet just get the 30 dollar 10kmA mini brick USB augmentator / portable charger, velcro it to your bike and run your GPS off that and just charge it every trip or leave it on your 12 Volt bus to keep it charged.

Aaron

[DonTom]

Well DonDon, considering it runs off 12 volts, It seems it'd be very easy for one to throw an old cigarette lighter port in the same hole and then  plug in the USB charger of their own desires.

2A typically is at the higher end of what they typically offer unless you pay premium prices for one that is more powerful.  They tend to balk on that because they use terribly thin cable like 24 ga etc to bring the power down from the port TO your device and at 3A of DC, especially only 5 volts, the voltage drop tends to be HORRIBLE.

I suppose if one was handy with a soldering iron they could make one out of some 14 or 12 ga wire but still.
Better yet just get the 30 dollar 10kmA mini brick USB augmentator / portable charger, velcro it to your bike and run your GPS off that and just charge it every trip or leave it on your 12 Volt bus to keep it charged.

Aaron

I have changed many of them from USB to 12V. Around ten of them in my RV. All of them were on their own ten-amp lines, that is around 130 watts each line, where a 3-amp USB can only handle 15 watts. A big waste of power availability by having USB as a power outlet to begin with. Now I can run all the 12 or 5v stuff I want and then some.


But on motorcycles, I usually tap into the 12V USB line input and add one of these thingies:




-Don-  Auburn, CA