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[ESokoloff]

I sure did…..

I fixed it. (Let that be a lesson not to post when you feel like crud).

[Bodo]

My experience as well as Shadows & the OP differ from yours. 
Never said I didn’t like crimp/stakeon terminals but rather don’t trust them above a certain amperage. 
I changed the stock socket 30k miles/2.5 yrs ago to a screw clamp arrangement and now [No] more heat issues. 

My Zero DSR charges about 3 hrs twice daily on 120v with an average amperage of 12a.
I’m curious as to your experiences.
I see you have a 2022 FX. Is this your first/only Zero?
What is the charger amperage average?

An IEC 60320 C13 socket has a maximum rating of 10A, you'll be fine up to that current with blade connectors and open barrel crimps done to the manufacturer's specifications.

If you use the socket you've mentioned here with an average of 12A, you exceed the maximum current specified by the seller, the IEC and the marking on the socket of 10A. I also see that the plug does not have UL certification, and certainly no automotive qualification for the plug or its harness screw connection. You are using a domestic low-current consumer component in an automotive application with regular higher currents, vibrations, outdoor ambient conditions than the component is qualified for. I strongly advise against that!

[ESokoloff]

“ I strongly advise against that!”

2.5 yrs & 30k miles tells me I’ll be just fine.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320

[TheRan]

I don't know if anyone's done it but you could swap it out for a C20 socket. There may not be enough clearance with the hole in the frame for the plug to fit but you could have socket just dangling, you were talking about having a hard wired cable anyway. The screw holes are only 2mm further apart so that will probably be fine but the clearance needs to be 32.6 x 24.5 mm versus 27.3 x 19.5 mm for the C14 socket.

[ESokoloff]

“There may not be enough clearance with the hole in the frame for the plug to fit”

There isn’t and besides the one you’ve shown still has the 1/4” stake on connectors that in my opinion are the cause for the failure's

[TheRan]

Well that was just to show the dimensions, I wasn't linking to a specific product. The current rating comes from the socket and the C20 is rated for what the OBC needs on 110v. Also from what I've heard the people that have heat issues are complaining about the cord and socket.

[Starpower]

Another for replacing it with a socket that can safely handle the current. Both my OEM cord end and socket got stupid hot. I replaced with a  125V 20A male cord cap (520 PV) and put the female on my charge cord.
It tucks behind the frame when not in use. Does not even get slightly warm.  As others have pointed out this bike end is not live unless YOU have applied power to it externally.

[gyrocyclist]

After consideration, I'm going with Starpower's suggestion. My local HomeDepot had both male and female fittings in stock. Will send photo when finished. In the meantime I've attached a photo of the dismantled C13 from my SR. FWIW, bike has 25K miles, and I've tried to plug into the bike before plugging cord into power -- but have not always done so. As the kids say, "my bad."

[DonTom]

After consideration, I'm going with Starpower's suggestion. My local HomeDepot had both male and female fittings in stock. Will send photo when finished. In the meantime I've attached a photo of the dismantled C13 from my SR. FWIW, bike has 25K miles, and I've tried to plug into the bike before plugging cord into power -- but have not always done so. As the kids say, "my bad."

The big load starts after the contactor closes, so I wonder if it makes any difference. But I would plug in the bike first aways anyway and make sure it's well plugged in before letting any juice into the AC cord. A poor connection at the bike is a guarantee for problems no matter which end is plugged in first.


Why is your red wire insulation melted?


-Don-  Reno, NV

[gyrocyclist]

Why is your red wire insulation melted?

-Don-  Reno, NV

No idea; I merely posted what I observed. It's a bit unsettling. Ideas, anyone?

[DonTom]

No idea; I merely posted what I observed. It's a bit unsettling. Ideas, anyone?

Do you know where that wire went to? Looks like something is drawing excessive current.


Can you take a better photo so I can see every inch of each wire?  I cannot tell what is what with the wire that is under to connector.  Are there more than three wires involved?


-Don-  Reno, NV

[gyrocyclist]

See photo. I tested connections with an ohm meter. There are two grn/yellow wires. One is in the cable (three wires) connection to the charger. The 2nd I assume is a direct connection to the bike's chassis. (You said red; I said brown-ish)

[DonTom]

See photo. I tested connections with an ohm meter. There are two grn/yellow wires. One is in the cable (three wires) connection to the charger. The 2nd I assume is a direct connection to the bike's chassis. (You said red; I said brown-ish)

On the bike side, the green/yellow will go to the bike frame as ground.  The black is hot and the brown is the neutral for 120 VAC.


Both black and brown will be hot if 240 VAC is used. Frame will be neutral and ground for both sides of the 120 VAC when 240 VAC is used. Yeah, 240 VAC uses two 120 VAC lines, but opposite phase.


Neutral is grounded outside your home but ran as separate wires inside the home.


But all that doesn't really matter here.


What I would like to know is if your blue wire insulation also looks melted. It looks to me like a possible OBC problem of it drawing excusive current. Does the bike charge normally? Any strange smells or anything from the bottom of the bike while it was charging?  You could have a bigger issue than just the connector.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[ESokoloff]

Don’t worry about plugging in the bikes plug 1st as the contractor pull-in is delayed but don’t unplug it first (unless charge is complete).

I’m guessing the heat damaged wire was a result of the 1/4” stakeon connections & after eliminating them you’ll be good to go.
Make sure you cut out the heat damaged wires &/or dress up the individual strands with Scotchbrite before making your splices.  I recommend utilizing plenty of heat shrink to insure a good waterproof repair.

[gyrocyclist]

Don’t worry about plugging in the bikes plug 1st as the contractor pull-in is delayed but don’t unplug it first (unless charge is complete).

I’m guessing the heat damaged wire was a result of the 1/4” stakeon connections & after eliminating them you’ll be good to go.
Make sure you cut out the heat damaged wires &/or dress up the individual strands with Scotchbrite before making your splices.  I recommend utilizing plenty of heat shrink to insure a good waterproof repair.

Finally got around to finishing this (photo should be attached). Plug is rated at 20A 125V. During charging, all connections and cords are far cooler than with the stock C13 socket. Plus, installation required no soldering or heat shrink (I've never mastered either).