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[jotjotde]

Hi folks,

having attempted my first chain tensioning after 7000 km, I stumbled upon a crass difference between how it's done according the the owner's manual and how it's shown on Energica's YouTube channel.

Energica on YouTube: https://www.google.de/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjTrIuI98j6AhWsSvEDHR_fBQMQtwJ6BAgGEAI&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DujoYSEDoHmU&usg=AOvVaw04Jil9aVjHwF0vf_m8n6T1

Manual says to remove the chain cover, measure at the end of the upper guard pad. Measure is taken between chain pressed down and chain pressed upwards and should be 30 mm. According to my understanding this is the classical way to do it with motorbike chains.

Now in the video, the guy does not remove the cover, measures just the upward way (at 2:10) and sets the ruler to 30 mm seemingly including the chain height.

What's your opinion of this? I'm confused! 

[MVetter]

I would absolutely be fine trusting the video. Gianluca knows what he's doing.

[HoodRichOG]

I think the way the manual shows it results in a tighter chain than in the video.

The way it's done in the video prob means that the slack is closer to 40mm.

Swingarm says 30mm so I followed the manual. At the end of the day, an extra 10mm of chain slack probably doesn't have any meaningful impact.

[smithy]

I think the way the manual shows it results in a tighter chain than in the video.

The way it's done in the video prob means that the slack is closer to 40mm.

Swingarm says 30mm so I followed the manual. At the end of the day, an extra 10mm of chain slack probably doesn't have any meaningful impact.

Agree totally. Some bike manufacturers have a "tollerance" of 10mm between upper and lower measurements anyway...I suspect as you do, a 10mm difference will make little to no difference.

Smithy.

[jotjotde]

Thanks for your insights!

I tested this yesterday: After re-tightening my chain according to the manual I measured the play like the guy in the video in front of the chain guard.
But contrary to what HoodRichOG and smithy assumed, I ended up with significantly more play than 30 mm there, i.e. using the video-method would cause an over-tightened chain.

Surely the video-method is easier, but from what I know about chain drives I would rather err on the side of slack. Erring on the tighter side could lead to higher wear of the gearbox bearings which would be a major issue if it has to be changed.


BTW: Another mess-up in the video: Torque for the axle nut is said to be 80 Nm.
Manual of my '22 Ribelle says 70 Nm with a tolerance of 5%.


I am aware that chain tightening is not an exact science    But from a premium manufacturer I expect that they are sticking to their own rules or give at least an explanation when deviating from it.

[PWM]

BTW: Another mess-up in the video: Torque for the axle nut is said to be 80 Nm.
Manual of my '22 Ribelle says 70 Nm with a tolerance of 5%.

80 NM is correct as communicated by Energica USA on a service call.

[HoodRichOG]

Interesting... Seems weird and wrong to have it tighter than 30mm.

So the manual is wrong on the 70nm? That's what I tightened mine to and I haven't died yet.

[DonTom]

Interesting... Seems weird and wrong to have it tighter than 30mm.

So the manual is wrong on the 70nm? That's what I tightened mine to and I haven't died yet.

I generally don't look at specs for such stuff. I simply adjust belts and chains so they feel like they are correct.


I wouldn't be a bit surprised if the engineers who decide this stuff use my method.  It's usually fairly obvious when our belts are too loose or two tight.


And the brand-new Zeros I saw at Eurocycles in Reno way obviously way too tight. I would be afraid to ride them a block as I would expect them to break. No freeplay at all.


-Don-  Auburn, CA

[coolhand]

I checked with the local dealer: Follow the video or the manual. The local dealer told me the manual is correct, the video allows for too much free play.

So, I follow the manual.