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[2022ZeroFX]

I'm an idiot. Instead of using my torque wrench on the rear axle nut, I was just going to tighten the nut back up until the factory markings matched up. Of course I went way too tight crushing the black polyurethane/rubber thing on the hub of the rear wheel (belt side), and who knows what else. So, now the wheel is grinding metal on metal with the swing arm . How much damage did I do, and how do I even start fixing it?

[Kappi]

1. Release torque on axle nut
2. Remove wheel an related components
3. Check swing arm, bearings and other components for damage / warping
4. Check if swing arm is still straight and true
5. Source replacement for damaged components
6. Replace damaged components
7. Reassemble and torque to specifications
8. After reassembly, check rear wheel for smooth and straight rotation
9. Celebrate achievement with drink / food of choice

[Kappi]

If steps 1-8 are out of personal skillset:
I. Transport bike to dealer / shop
II. Have bike checked and repaired
III. Fork over cash and pick up bike
IV. See step 9 of previous post

[2022ZeroFX]

Thanks for the reply! I ordered a blind bearing puller set, so hopefully I can see what's going on in there... My dealer is a four hour drive (round trip) away from me, and I'm sure I'd have to make that trip more than once. I'm not sure if this is something a regular motorcycle shop could handle? My Suzuki was easy to work on. I could look at an exploded diagram online, and order the exact part(s) I needed, then consult the service manual for installation. I'm not sure where to source Zero parts. I'll call the dealership on Monday. ugh I only have 300 miles on this bike, and was planning on riding this weekend with the new knobbies.

[Kappi]

Af1 racing has a parts catalogue online, at least the used to.
Technically, any decent bike shop can do a bearing check / repair, however I don't know if and how that might affect your bike's warranty.

[Fran K]

page 24, 30, 40    https://www.af1racing.com/store/ProdImages/st3/20fx.pdf

get it so the rear wheel is off and the rest stable.  If you don't like the feel of a bearing, as seen in the picture there is a tube between the bearings to compress when axle nut is tight.  Just force a square edned punch through the axle hole, force that tube to the side a bit and drive on the bearing back and forth side to side.  With a heat gun will be easier.

[2022ZeroFX]

That was exactly what I was looking for! After looking at the diagram, and before pictures, I realized that there was a spacer missing! I found it and put everything back together. I did some damage over tightening and riding without the spacer, but hopefully not too much. Short test ride seemed okay. I noticed the belt now rides to the right side of the front sprocket and the left side of the back sprocket, so I might have tweaked the swing arm a little. Woo hoo this weekend is back on! Thanks for your help!

[Fred]

A missing spacer makes sense. I would be amazed if you could do that much damage overtightening it. Bending the swingarm?? Not likely. The worst you could do is if you missed the spacer between the bearings inside the wheel. That would definitely add a large lateral load and crush the wheel bearings.

[2022ZeroFX]

I wonder if the swing arm would flex or bend? Hopefully you are right. I don't know I'm pretty strong and was using a massive wrench lol. The spacer covered in dirt was the one that got left out. It did sound like a bearing was going out, but that was when I was riding without the spacer. Time will tell I guess. Thank you everyone for your help you guys rock!

<a href="https://ibb.co/68qZr4V"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/vhMBVJg/IMG-20220707-154406906.jpg" alt="IMG-20220707-154406906" border="0"></a>

<a href="https://ibb.co/B6GMQTv"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/xgYTBzw/IMG-20220711-104753323.jpg" alt="IMG-20220711-104753323" border="0"></a>

[ESokoloff]

………..
I noticed the belt now rides to the right side of the front sprocket and the left side of the back sprocket, so I might have tweaked the swing arm a little.
………

Hopefully the belt just needs adjustment.

Here are my notes for my 2016 DSR with the thin belt so modify for the thicker belt.

 2016 DSR (thin belt) 20/30kg tension  (using Krikit belt tension gauge).

Jacking left screw(bolt) out (adding tension) moves the belt to the right on the rear sheave/sprocket.
Jacking right screw(bolt) out moves the belt to the left. 

NOTE: Position belt with a right side bias as it will shift to the left when the axle bolt is tightened.
This movement to the left is approx 1/16”-1/8” on my bike (yours might vary).

After making an adjustment to a jack screw, must pry right side of wheel forward (or smack it to the right from the back side) to “set” the adjustment as the belt tension on the sheave will pivot the axle ClockWise...........
(In my opinion, the right jack screw SHOULD be located 180° &  push the axle CCW thus countering the Left jack screw CW effect on the Sheave/Belt/Axle. )



NOTE: 1/6 turn of Left jack screw causes a 10KG difference to belt tension.

Best to get the belt/sheave alignment sorted first, then go for proper tension.
I shoot for the greatest tension (30kg).

If you don’t have the correct Metric socket (like me), use a 1-1/16” to tension the axle nut to 102NM (75#’).
Recommend first removing the jack bolts & grinding or filing off the markings so it’s smooth & will not gouge the soft aluminum swing arm.
Put a dab of Anti-seize or heavy grease on the jack bolt threads while your at it.

A few other thoughts.....

Excessive belt tension is not good on bearings & the thicker belt has a higher tension spec then the thin one.
I’m not sure where the best tension point would be on the thick belt, but I would stay towards the lower end yielding about the same as the max thin belt (30kg) unless the bearings were upgraded & can withstand greater belt tension. 

I use a mechanical tension checking device (Gates 91107 Belt Tension Tester) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MUTAGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_23M6C0PXQW8W3RV5GE9W and check several locations of the rear sheave/sprocket in case it’s slightly out of round (different run outs will yield different belt tension readings).

A hexagon fastener has 6 sides so one flat (1/6 full turn) of the LEFT bolt will yield a 10kg change in belt tension.

Must make sure there is a gap (credit card or greater) between the belt & the left hand lip on the sheave/sprocket).

[DerKrawallkeks]

I also overtightened the rear axle nut at one point (even though I was using a torque wrench).
The axle did not want to come out after that, and I had to use a massive M12 threaded rod I think to pull it out. After sanding the axle and putting some grease, it went in fine.