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[colillon]

Hello everyone, I am an electronic engineer and I live in the Canary Islands, where I live there is no official Zero service or anything similar . A costumer brought to my workshop a 2013 zero ds with an electrical problem (the lighting did not turn off) after a diagnosis he discovered that the dc-dc was defective but they had already tried to solve it by placing a relay to cut the 12v power supply (the motorcycle was bought second-hand a year before)
We discovered that the relay was broken and we proceeded to change it .... it worked perfectly once it was changed but only for 10 minutes.
After this the motorcycle turned off and was dead .... we discovered that the 3.15A fuse had blown and we proceeded to change it, but it melted as soon as we put it on. With the dc-dc disconnected and the relay removed (to avoid problems) we proceeded to reset the bms through the buttons and it worked, the battery responded and passed the test perfectly so the battery and bms seem to be perfectly.
In one of the tests by mistake we put a 4amp fuse instead of the corresponding 3.15amp fuse and it did not blow but instead smoke began to come out of the 34-pin connector of the mbb ... we disconnected very quickly
Now I suppose that the mbb will be short-circuited, but I have two main problems, now with the original 3.15amp fuse, when connecting the mbb (34 pin connector) the fuse does not break ... but smoke continues to come out of the mbb connector .
In my work I usually repair ecu of cars and also boats (epoxy covers) .... but with the mbb of this motorcycle I have no idea how to disassemble it, any idea to dissolve the epoxy that covers it? Any idea why the 3.15amp fuse does not continue to blow when connecting?
I have made many measurements, and the voltage seems to arrive perfectly at the mbb, 110v arrives between pin 7 (b-) and pin 18 of the 34-pin connector of the mbb
Any more tests I can do I appreciate any ideas
An important detail, the costumer demands me, I assume the cost of the repair, since the mbb died while in my workshop 

[NEW2elec]

https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Common_Problems#Power_Cutout_Failure


Likely a bad MBB or key switch to start with.

[Auriga]

I would check the ignition circuit on the BMS and make sure it is still generating the 12V as expected. The BMS generates its own 12V via its own regulator. I've seen the DCDC damage that circuit on the BMS, despite the BMS checking out on serial and via testing. Sometimes that kills the MBB as well.

Unfortunately I think the MBB and BMS will be difficult for you to repair if they are defective. They are both potted in a resin to prevent water ingress, and I know of no good way to access the components. Schematics are also not available, and neither are the bootloaders for the chips.

Odds are it would be cheaper and less time consuming to get new parts. Perhaps Zero US could help, but I'm not sure there's much they'd be willing to do.

[colillon]

https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Common_Problems#Power_Cutout_Failure


Likely a bad MBB or key switch to start with.

Thanks for your answer NEW2elec, but the diagnostic and test process I have already done, for that reason I can share the test results and the voltages that I obtain, right now I have the defective mbb, of that I have no doubt, what I am looking for is to make sure that the bmc is perfect and some solution to repair the mbb

[colillon]

I would check the ignition circuit on the BMS and make sure it is still generating the 12V as expected. The BMS generates its own 12V via its own regulator. I've seen the DCDC damage that circuit on the BMS, despite the BMS checking out on serial and via testing. Sometimes that kills the MBB as well.

Unfortunately I think the MBB and BMS will be difficult for you to repair if they are defective. They are both potted in a resin to prevent water ingress, and I know of no good way to access the components. Schematics are also not available, and neither are the bootloaders for the chips.

Odds are it would be cheaper and less time consuming to get new parts. Perhaps Zero US could help, but I'm not sure there's much they'd be willing to do.

Thank you very much Auriga for your answer, are you sure that in this specific model the bms also generates 12v voltage? I suppose that 12v voltage will go to feed some part of the mbb, since the dcdc does not feed the mbb, would you know what pins the 12v carry in the 12-pin connector that comes out of the bms To be able to test whether or not I have those 12v and the bms is fine at all, it would also help me to know the pins where they would have to connect those 12v that you mention in the mbb (34-pin or 40-pin connector) in the diagrams that I have found they do not appear tensions and the verification becomes quite difficult ..... I have already tried to speak with zero official in the usa, but they ignore me

[colillon]

Something that I had forgotten to comment on is that the short circuit that generated the problem was between the enable signal coming from the mbb to pin 1 of the dcdc and the signal b-