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[DonTom]

How do you access the battery terminals on the controller? I haven't disassembled the bike yet so I'm blind to all this.

Look up behind the rear fender. You will see fins. That is the bottom of the motor controller.


You get to the battery terminals from the top, under the rear of the seat. Under a cheap paper-like cover. Then you will see five bolts on the motor controller.  Three go to the motor.


The other two are the neg and pos of the battery voltage.


Some say the torque of these bolts are very important. Lots of current on them, especially while riding. It's probably a good idea to look up the torque spec., however, I didn't bother and went by what would feel reasonable to me. And that was a couple of years ago and all has been fine.


Keep the key out and not near the bike if you work around that area. And not charging. You want the contactor to be open when you work on that otherwise very dangerous area of the bike.


Regardless if you use the connector for the DeltaQ or the controller with the Elcons, to charge, the OBC will also have to be used. But you can still charge without the OBC if you keep the key in, bike on, or else do this.




-Don-  Reno, NV

[victor6.7y]

Might be good to read the following: https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Install_Charging_Circuit_At_Controller

Also wise to add a Fuse, 3300W x 3 = 9900W -> 9900W / 96v = 103.125A -> lets say a fuse of about 120A (And generally a voltage of around 100V)

And please Tripple check if you connected the B+ to the Charger+ and B- to the Charger- especially if you do not have a fuse in between.

[Kill3rT0fu]

How do you access the battery terminals on the controller? I haven't disassembled the bike yet so I'm blind to all this.

Look up behind the rear fender. You will see fins. That is the bottom of the motor controller.


You get to the battery terminals from the top, under the rear of the seat. Under a cheap paper-like cover. Then you will see five bolts on the motor controller.  Three go to the motor.


The other two are the neg and pos of the battery voltage.


Some say the torque of these bolts are very important. Lots of current on them, especially while riding. It's probably a good idea to look up the torque spec., however, I didn't bother and went by what would feel reasonable to me. And that was a couple of years ago and all has been fine.


Keep the key out and not near the bike if you work around that area. And not charging. You want the contactor to be open when you work on that otherwise very dangerous area of the bike.


Regardless if you use the connector for the DeltaQ or the controller with the Elcons, to charge, the OBC will also have to be used. But you can still charge without the OBC if you keep the key in, bike on, or else do this.




-Don-  Reno, NV

From the looks of that, it looks like I just need a switch jumping pins 5 and 11? Is that correct? I was trying to find some details beyond that picture, but I didn't see anything that specifies which pins to jump. I could have overlooked it.

[DonTom]

From the looks of that, it looks like I just need a switch jumping pins 5 and 11? Is that correct? I was trying to find some details beyond that picture, but I didn't see anything that specifies which pins to jump. I could have overlooked it.

There is no need for the pin numbers. Go by the colors of the wires and notice where I said "BTW, the gray wire in the photo is really gray-red. It can look like another red wire depending on the angle. The red stripe is quite thick and can look like a red wire."


-Don- Reno, NV

[Kill3rT0fu]

From the looks of that, it looks like I just need a switch jumping pins 5 and 11? Is that correct? I was trying to find some details beyond that picture, but I didn't see anything that specifies which pins to jump. I could have overlooked it.

There is no need for the pin numbers. Go by the colors of the wires and notice where I said "BTW, the gray wire in the photo is really gray-red. It can look like another red wire depending on the angle. The red stripe is quite thick and can look like a red wire."


-Don- Reno, NV

Ok. I'm slightly colorblind so I try go by colors strictly. But it's just the two pins and that's it? A simple on/off switch?

Also, since the chargers get wired directly to the battery, is it necessary to buy new, longer, bolts?

[DonTom]

Ok. I'm slightly colorblind so I try go by colors strictly. But it's just the two pins and that's it? A simple on/off switch?

Also, since the chargers get wired directly to the battery, is it necessary to buy new, longer, bolts?

Just ask a buddy to tell you the colors (solid red is one wire, the other is gray with a red stripe--stipe not shown in photo) and make sure it looks the same position as the photo. I never looked at the pin numbers, so I don't know what they are.


Yes, just a simply switch. In that thread, I mentioned how it is to be used. Switch on, key on and then remove the key. Bike will then stay in charging mode. Switch not needed if OBC is used and you do not exceed the power of the charge station. The only purpose of the switch is so the OBC does NOT have to be used to remove the key.



Do NOT change the bolts on the controller. They are designed for ridiculously high currents (when riding a lot more than when charging) and replacing those with any others not designed for that controller is asking for problems.  Perhaps can cause a fire while riding. The stock bolts were long enough for what I did to my Zeros, which was to add TWO ring terminals to each bolt (four total).


Bike will not run if switch is activated, unless already running, as I explained later in that thread.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[Kill3rT0fu]

Ok. I'm slightly colorblind so I try go by colors strictly. But it's just the two pins and that's it? A simple on/off switch?

Also, since the chargers get wired directly to the battery, is it necessary to buy new, longer, bolts?

Just ask a buddy to tell you the colors (solid red is one wire, the other is gray with a red stripe--stipe not shown in photo) and make sure it looks the same position as the photo. I never looked at the pin numbers, so I don't know what they are.


Yes, just a simply switch. In that thread, I mentioned how it is to be used. Switch on, key on and then remove the key. Bike will then stay in charging mode. Switch not needed if OBC is used and you do not exceed the power of the charge station. The only purpose of the switch is so the OBC does NOT have to be used to remove the key.



Do NOT change the bolts on the controller. They are designed for ridiculously high currents (when riding a lot more than when charging) and replacing those with any others not designed for that controller is asking for problems.  Perhaps can cause a fire while riding. The stock bolts were long enough for what I did to my Zeros, which was to add TWO ring terminals to each bolt (four total).


Bike will not run if switch is activated, unless already running, as I explained later in that thread.


-Don-  Reno, NV

Do you have any wiring diagrams or pictures of how a dual or triple charger setup would be installed? From what I gather, if it's a 2 charger setup the two anderson connectors just go into a Y splitter, and then the other end of the Y splitter connect to the battery terminals. If it's a 3 charger setup, it needs the Y splitter, and then the additional cabled from the third charger go to the battery. Is this correct?

[DonTom]

Do you have any wiring diagrams or pictures of how a dual or triple charger setup would be installed?

No, I did mine on my own, not even knowing it was covered in the unofficial manual.


I ran separate cables and connectors for each Elcon charger to 50 amp Andersons near the left passenger footpeg on each bike. You want the connectors close to the OBC so the J-adapter can easily connect to all three.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[Kill3rT0fu]

Do you have any wiring diagrams or pictures of how a dual or triple charger setup would be installed?

No, I did mine on my own, not even knowing it was covered in the unofficial manual.


I ran separate cables and connectors for each Elcon charger to 50 amp Andersons near the left passenger footpeg on each bike. You want the connectors close to the OBC so the J-adapter can easily connect to all three.


-Don-  Reno, NV

I found this in another thread, but is this the proper way to wire 3+ chargers? + from charger "one" to - on charger "two", then + on charger "two" to - on charger "three". Then route the - from "one" and + from charger "three" directly to the battery?

I'm just trying to wrap my head around this because that's a lot of electricity going to a very expensive battery pack, and it's been about 10-ish years since I've worked with electrical parts like this.

[DonTom]

I will say no. That shows the DC outputs in series, not what you want to do with the Elcons I use.


But that doesn't mean it won't work as shown  if you really have those exact type of chargers.



Those chargers shown are half the voltage of the Elcons and shows a 650W OBC. What bike is that for, a FX?


-Don-

[Kill3rT0fu]

Another random question. Probably the wrong forum. To thin the chargers to get a belly pan to fit, would it be feasible to shave off the heat sink fins, and remove the fan, since they will be mounted to a big metal pan anyway the pan itself should act as a heatsink. If there's enough room, I'd like to keep the fan and add some vents to the pan. Would this whole idea be a no no?

[Shadow]

Another random question. Probably the wrong forum. To thin the chargers to get a belly pan to fit, would it be feasible to shave off the heat sink fins, and remove the fan, since they will be mounted to a big metal pan anyway the pan itself should act as a heatsink. If there's enough room, I'd like to keep the fan and add some vents to the pan. Would this whole idea be a no no?

It is a logically sound idea and there are fellow forum members what designed and implemented such a mounting system. Dumping heat unevenly into the monolith battery is not ideal, however. You'll find that uneven battery heating and under/over temperature rise does limit charging rate more substantially than the rider's willingness to strap charging electronics to their ride 

[Crissa]

Vents in the pan means openings rocks and water can get in.

A pan with heatsinks on the outside, tho...

-Crissa

[Kill3rT0fu]

Vents in the pan means openings rocks and water can get in.

A pan with heatsinks on the outside, tho...

-Crissa

Aren't the TC chargers water resistant though? Something like up to 3 to 6 meters? Should be able to take a splash. Also, making the same assumption that cables and connectors are routed out of water harms way. Or at least waterproof the connections with a conductive grease and shrink tubing.

[Crissa]

Yeah, but cooling starts breaking down as they get coated in crud.

-Crissa