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[TheRan]

So I had an attempted theft of my bikes early hours of this morning, they too the cover off the KTM and busted the disc lock but my DS only had the rear half of the cover off. I'm not sure if the tail light was lit at the time as my security flood light was on and the cover was still on the front half covering the headlight. Anyway I've now taken the cover all the way off to discover the front and rear lights are stuck on. Cycling the key doesn't fix it and I don't think they did anything to the ignition as the cover was still over that and it was still in the locked position, and also the dash isn't always on just the lights. I don't see anything else obvious that they may have fiddled with nor think of what they could have done that gets just the lights on without closing the contactor and getting the bike to start, nor do I think they'd have the intelligence to do so.

What do I go about checking here? From what I understand there's a permanent 12v supply from the DC-DC but I have no idea what controls what is still powered when the bike is keyed off. It's not a big concern in terms of power drain but it's going to attract attention when the bike is parked and I have a roadworthy test coming up on Thursday and I feel like it could result in it failing that.

EDIT: Also with the bike keyed off I can still put the high beam on, turn signals flash with both the turn and hazard switches, and the brake light comes on with the brake lever pressed. I will also check later if the USB is always powered but I'm not completely sure if I wired that to a switched output or not.

[princec]

I'd disconnect the DC-DC 12V - it sounds like there's a firmware glitch and it just needs to be reset.

Cas

[TheRan]

So I pulled a couple fuses and got the headlight and running lights to go off so that'll do for leaving it overnight for now. I did pull all the fuses earlier, not sure if that would disconnect the DC-DC completely or if something else would need to be unplugged, but the behaviour was the same once I put them back in. Additionally the USB is powered when it's keyed off, as are the heated grips and I know those are wired to a switched circuit as I often don't turn them off once I'm parked. The backlight on the dash also stays on. It's not a fault with the chargers either as I unplugged the CAN connectors on those and the lights stayed on.

My pop's suggestion is that it could be a faulty ignition switch, I find it unlikely as being mechanically I would imagine that with the key in the off position it's physically impossible for the switch to close but I've not had one apart to see. Tomorrow I'll pull the headlight off and see if I can disconnect the switch completely.

[ESokoloff]

Is this a DS(R) or a DSR/X?

[TheRan]

It's a gen 2 DS, so no auxiliary 12v battery. I removed the headlight yesterday to discover that the cable for the key switch runs further into the bike under the tank compartment, looking at the unofficial manual it connects straight to the MBB. Didn't have the time to pull the tank off to check it out but might be able to do it today.

[TheRan]

Been fiddling around with things some more. Disconnected the key switch and that stops the bike from keying on, however the lights still remain on so I'm pretty sure it's not that sending a constant on signal to the DC-DC. I managed to unplug the DC-DC, boy was it a pain in the arse to get to that connector, and doing so shut the lights off. When I plugged it back in the first time I had one of the MBB plugs also disconnected and with the both hooked back up the lights remained off, I keyed the bike on and then off and the lights stayed on. I then disconnected the DC-DC on its own (not as easy with the MBB plug in the way) and plugging it back in the lights came on straight away. From this behaviour I'm not sure which component is at fault, is the DC-DC stuck on or is there some sort of failure mode with the MBB that can cause it to send a constant on signal to the DC-DC.

[Curt]

If it's like the FX, the DC/DC has 5 pins and pin 1 is the enable, orange/red wire going to MBB 1 pin 20.

[TheRan]

Hard to get to that and test if there's any signal coming from that pin. I've bought a new DC-DC convertor anyway as there was one fairly cheap on Ebay so I'll be tearing everything apart to fit that, I'll try and test if there's a signal coming from the MBB before tidying everything away.

[Richard230]

Hard to get to that and test if there's any signal coming from that pin. I've bought a new DC-DC convertor anyway as there was one fairly cheap on Ebay so I'll be tearing everything apart to fit that, I'll try and test if there's a signal coming from the MBB before tidying everything away.

Good luck! That DC-DC converter is a beast to get to. I bet when you reinstall it, it will not be as compacted as it came from the factory. 

[TheRan]

Well, it looks like this is another fault that's worked itself out. Preparing to leave for work so I pull the seat off, pop the fuses in, and the lights don't come on. Key the bike on and it's all working normally, key it off and the lights go off. Same on the way home. I'm guessing it must have just been water infiltration but I would have thought it would have dried out after a couple days. I now have a BMS isolation fault instead, it's been chucking it down today so I'm hoping that's just from water too and it'll dry out.

The new DC-DC turned up today as well. At least I've got a spare for the future.

[Curt]

Yeah, I paid $400 on eBay for a used Green Watt charger. It arrived in the mail around the same time I figured out it was that fuse. Parts cannon!

Maybe the DC-DC enable is a low impedance input vulnerable to moisture leakage currents.