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[DonTom]

I was considering buying the new SR/F just for the better charging, which I decided is kinda silly since I ride like a little old lady and 99% of my e-bike riding is in the eco mode on both of my Zeros. I have no need for a more powerful bike.

What I would really like is an EXTERNAL high power 240 VAC quick charger that I can throw in my saddle bag or travel trunk as needed, for my 2017 SR with power tank to work from a J-1772.

What I have been doing for longer trips is carrying two Zero Quick Chargers (one in each saddlebag) with all the cables to use on a J-plug. There has to be a better idea out there, somewhere.

Any ideas?

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[ashnazg]

I used to carry a 2500W Elcon in my top box on my '15 SR... until I got bellypan DigiNows...

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

The units that DigiNow sells have the best power to weight ratio of products that are programmed to work with the Zero.

About 3.3kW for every 7lbs (8-9 with cabling and inlet), much better than the QuiQ's 1kW for 11lbs.

https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Chargers#Charger_Comparison

If you don't carry the chargers with you, you don't have to worry about vibration and ingress damage over time, and can set up Elket flatpacks or whatever computer power supplies can dial in the Zero's battery voltage range and operate in CC-CV mode.

[DonTom]

I used to carry a 2500W Elcon in my top box on my '15 SR... until I got bellypan DigiNows...

Do the bellypan DigiNows take the place of the stock charger or how do they work? How many watts are they?

And can you tell me more about that 2500W Elcon?

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[ashnazg]

Yes, the bellypan DigiNows replace the stock charger (and the stock bellypan).  I have three chargers in the pan, where two Y-together into the Anderson AUX port beside the motor, and the third wires directly into the controller under the seat.  This split arrangement is apparently necessary due to the fuse size near the AUX, being just a bit too small to handle all three going into the AUX.

I don't yet have "permanent" wiring locations on my bike, so for now, I have pieces of bubble wrap protecting the connector ends of the wires coming out of the bellypan chargers, and then the wires with the charger ports stay in my top box until I need them.  If I want to use double J plugs for max charging, I pull both Jport connectors from my box, attach to the two wires from the pan, and use two J stations.  If I want just one J for charging, I can use either the one 6.6kW wire or the one 3.3kW wire... just depends on my timing needs.  Lastly, I separately got a 110v plug connector wire from them, so that I can use the 3.3kW wire to a 110 outlet, but of course it's not pulling that full 3.3 that way.  Each of the "two" chargers (one single DigiNow for 3.3, then a pair wired together for 6.6) are programmed to initialize charging at a lower rate, and slowly ramp up to what they perceive as their maximums available from the current sources.

Here's my thread on installing the DigiNows -- https://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=8769.0

Back to my Elcon, I got it from Hollywood Electrics back in '15 for my then FX.  It just plugs into the Anderson AUX on one end, and a J station on the other.  I got a separate 14-50 connector for it, but have never had a chance to use it.  The Elcon runs at 2.5kW, so it's slower than a single DigiNow, about twice as large, and perhaps more than twice as heavy (technically, I've never held a single DigiNow by itself in hand).  I would carry the Elcon in my top box, along with lots of towels as wrap filler to keep it from sliding around while riding.

[DonTom]

Yes, the bellypan DigiNows replace the stock charger (and the stock bellypan).

Onboard, I can consider. I would like around 6KW charging, for my Zero SR with PowerTank, if possible. I only need 240 VAC, I have no use for 120 VAC as I have Tesla Wall stations with Tesla-Taps at each of my houses.

But is it possible to set these up externally and leave the bike as stock? Will 6KW worth somehow fit in a couple of saddebags? And still be able to use the onboard charger with them for a little extra charging power?

Where do I find more info on those bellypan chargers?  Prices and such also.  Thanks.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[ashnazg]

https://diginow.it ... note there is probably more frequent updates on the IndieGogo project page.

[talon]

I was working on plates for my diginows to sit in my happy trails rack but the rack opening is too small by a couple mm's. I could pop them on and off whenever I needed to do a longer trip and leave my bike stock (and lighter!!!) with backup system of onboard charger. Easily removable 6.6kW on the sides and an extra 3.3 wherever I want it. I still might shave the rack down a bit with an angle grinder, or suck it up and get the belly pan. I just REALLY hate being stranded and if the control board fails with diginows you are stuck. In this regard I have made custom kickstand sensor bypass cables and other stuff for a rainy day, have a micro air pump and plug kit, and compact versions of every tool to disassemble the bike carried with me daily.

[DonTom]

I am now charging my 2017 SR with Power Tank at above 6KW, just like the 2020 SR/F Premium.

What I did was to send  Elcon (in Sacramento, CA) an email several  days ago.  They told me that they still have the PFC2500 charger and the software for it that they used to sell to Hollywood Electric. They cost $700.00 each, but they have the wrong connectors on both ends for  the Zeros. Same otherwise. These use a small Anderson connector, but they give you a plug with it, but a hydraulic  crimp tool is required.

The AC side is just a regular 120 VAC plug. Changing either of these plugs will void the charge warranty, so I had to make my own adapters. I rarely  use 120 VAC to charge my bikes from anywhere. So I made my own adapters so I can put 240 VAC on these 120 VAC plugs from a J-1772.

It took them a couple of days to get the chargers programmed and ready. I picked them up today. I went to their place in Sacramento, since it's not far from here.

I wired in my two connectors (yeah, separate for each charger) to the battery connects on the motor controller, each with a 25 amp fuse. This way, I can use smaller wires and a smaller fuse, than if I charged on only one lead. I really didn't like the idea of a 50 amp fuse. I am more concerned about the bike than the chargers, the fuses are very close to the contacts on the controller.

Each charger fits in the Zero Saddlebag perfectly, but is a few lbs over the weight limit. I doubt if that's a problem where and the way I ride. They will be evenly balanced with one charger in each saddle bag. Led light up, fan facing away from the bike and then they fit and the saddlebag can be locked an all.

I can now charge at just over 6KW on the road, 8 KW at home, by also using my Zero DeltaQ chargers, which will be too much to carry. Besides, some charge stations can only do around 7 KW.

Charging this way is less convenient than on a SR/F. but the SR is a lot more comfortable than the SR/F and this way was around 20 K$ cheaper. And better range. And equal charging to the SR/F Premium.

I just charged my SR (with Pwr Tank) from 75% to 100% in 30 minutes at 6 KW, using my TeslaTap.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[gt13013]

Hello Don,
Was it impossible to get the same system, but using the 3.3 kW chargers? They seem in every point better than the PFC2500: lighter, more compact, shock proof, water proof)
https://www.elconchargers.com/catalog/item/9034090/10295140.htm
Gerard

[DonTom]

Hello Don,
Was it impossible to get the same system, but using the 3.3 kW chargers? They seem in every point better than the PFC2500: lighter, more compact, shock proof, water proof)

Send them an e-mail and see what they say.

The only reason I went with the PFC2500 is because they knew for sure how to program it for a Zero. And it's known to be very dependable. No canbus connection required, quite simple. We did discuss a little about other options via  email and that's why I decided on what for certain will work well with my bike--and does. At least if both chargers are started at the same time, which I was warned about. If started at different times, one will stop because each charger will be on a different profile.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[gt13013]

OK Don.
I emailed them last year when I was building my solution, but my problem was slightly different. Finally I went with only one 3.3kW charger (sufficient for my 6.5 kWh battery, using the stock charger in parallel). I think that it should also work with two 3.3 kW chargers, in the same way as the Zero Quick Charger solution, but with 3.3kW units instead of 1kW units. Just have to make the convenient Y cable...
Gerard

[DonTom]

OK Don.
I emailed them last year when I was building my solution, but my problem was slightly different. Finally I went with only one 3.3kW charger (sufficient for my 6.5 kWh battery, using the stock charger in parallel). I think that it should also work with two 3.3 kW chargers, in the same way as the Zero Quick Charger solution, but with 3.3kW units instead of 1kW units. Just have to make the convenient Y cable...
Gerard

BTW, aren't those the same chargers that Diginow uses in the bellypan setup?

Why  bother with a Y cable?  Consider doing  what I did and wire two separate 25 amp fused cables direct to the motor controller battery terminals.


-Don- Auburn, CA

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

OK Don.
I emailed them last year when I was building my solution, but my problem was slightly different. Finally I went with only one 3.3kW charger (sufficient for my 6.5 kWh battery, using the stock charger in parallel). I think that it should also work with two 3.3 kW chargers, in the same way as the Zero Quick Charger solution, but with 3.3kW units instead of 1kW units. Just have to make the convenient Y cable...
Gerard

BTW, aren't those the same chargers that Diginow uses in the bellypan setup?

Why  bother with a Y cable?  Consider doing  what I did and wire two separate 25 amp fused cables direct to the motor controller battery terminals.


-Don- Auburn, CA

I think it’s less risky to have one higher rated set of lugs on the motor controller battery terminal stack than two lower rated lugs.

Any excess resistance in that stack increases the heat produced and possibly eddy currents. This could lead to a fire on the controller.

Those terminals should be modified as conservatively as possible.