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[togo]

Thanks so much for the revision.  Now...  Can you find a way to break it into 2 pieces that would fix on a "mini" printer with 120mm bed?  Note that's about 110 useable when you print with a raft.

I'm thinking break in the middle with a 'key' type connection.  If I had the source in a format I could put into OnShape, I would try this myself.

Another reason to split it into two pieces might be for people who actually want to extend it backwards either for compliance purposes (california regulation above) or to relocate turn signals so they clear the cargo area better (I think my bags block my turn signals a bit).  In two pieces, one could add extension blocks.  Also, might make for more convenient printing (assuming a flat cut point, with holes for bolts to align).

[togo]

> ... I sprayed some clearcoat on the resulting piece to keep upsplash from soaking into it.  ...

Let us know how that lasts.

I'm thinking to dip mine in some UV-blocking two-part epoxy to strengthen the carbon-PLA I intend to use and prevent it from photodegrading.

[RFlashman]

Ok, turns out I had some spare time tonight and was able to knock this out sooner than I anticipated! Sync's photo showed a roughly 25 degree difference between his plate and his print, so I worked that into the model and uploaded it to the original Thingiverse link as v2.

I printed v2 ($90 delivered from Print A Thing) and tried it out on my 2017 DS. It looks amazing and fits perfectly, but on extreme shock usage it does hit the tire. Just by a tiny little bit. I'm thinking there may be sweet placement between the original and the 25-degree version. I've bent my plate a little to give it a better gap (not looking to spend another $90 on this at this time).

[alko]

Very nice. I also would like to 3d print accessories for the zero, but I made my fender eliminator the old fashioned way. With a saw. Cut off all the excess, and used abs glue to reattach the licence plate bracket. And attached the licence plate light to the Zero rear rack.