Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[TheGap]

Hi,

This morning I wanted to leave for work and my display showed nothing but a blinking armed indicator.
0.6s very fast blinking, 3s off
Ignition key off or on made no difference.

Conditions:
I left the bike plugged in overnight
The bike was outside, not covered but it didn't rain (Bike was completely dry this morning)
Temperature outside this morning was around 7°C (44.6F)


I didn't find anything relevant in the troubleshooting chapter of the manual.
Anyone any idea what's going on?



Needed to get my car keys for the first time in several weeks 

[Skidz]

Hi TheGap,

Had the same experience during my commute home three weeks back, turned out the charger was broken. The reason it won't arm, is that the BMS or MBB detected an error that might result in a malfunction that is fatal to the bike and/or it's driver and it's refusing to arm the controller untill the error is resolved. In my case, the BMS reported a low isolation fault that could result in a broken battery and thus the controller didn't arm.

Good luck getting it repaired!

[TheGap]

Hi TheGap,

Had the same experience during my commute home three weeks back, turned out the charger was broken. The reason it won't arm, is that the BMS or MBB detected an error that might result in a malfunction that is fatal to the bike and/or it's driver and it's refusing to arm the controller untill the error is resolved. In my case, the BMS reported a low isolation fault that could result in a broken battery and thus the controller didn't arm.

Good luck getting it repaired!

... Oh goodie

[Skidz]

In my case, the replacement was very fast (Took 'em 6 days to order, recieve and build in the part) so that was pretty fast, considering I'm a bit east of California (In Europe to be precise).

[TheGap]

Oh cool, the site is back up … couldn’t access it for a few days.

In my case, the replacement was very fast (Took 'em 6 days to order, recieve and build in the part) so that was pretty fast, considering I'm a bit east of California (In Europe to be precise).

I also live "a bit east of California"

Anyway, I have my bike back since last Thursday … and most importantly: in working order.
As usual I received a perfect service from my dealer, but unfortunately they and a Zero technician could not find anything wrong in the logs.

A little background info on what happened (at least according to what I found) and how the dealer fixed it:

(Background info)
- On 230V my bike pulls roughly about 5A.
- Inside my house I have an electric socket that is protected by a 20A fuse.
- Outside my house I mounted (several months ago) an IP55 electric socket.
- I connected both with a computer cable. The cable is 0.75mm² (18 AWG) which is rated for 10A … double what my bike normally draws from the mains.
- I cut off the C13 connector to attach it to the IP55 socket. Then from the IP55 socket, the cable goes through the wall.
- The other end of the computer cable still has the CEE7/7 electric plug which I put in the indoor electric socket.


(what happened according to me)
The way I found the inside of the IP55 electric plug I believe my bike started to draw way too much current. But not enough to blow the fuse.
The weaker of the two connections got too hot, causing it to get even weaker and finally burned through.
See also the attached image. It's the most dramatic view but not all details are visible.
The moment the cable burned through, it created a lot of sparks which probably caused most of the burn marks.

(what the dealer found and how they fixed it)
The electronics of my bike obviously didn’t like the effects of a sparking 230V mains.
The electronics (controller, MBS, MBB) went into -what they called- a deep hibernation mode.
Removing the fuse plug on the low power module as shown in the second attached picture (note: fuse wasn’t blown) and placing it back effectively reset the electronics and the bike was back in working order.

Before the reset, even the CAN bus didn’t function. And, as stated at the beginning, after the reset no anomalies were found in the log.




Conclusion: After replacing the IP55 socket, I attached a 1.5mm² cable and added a separate 10A fuse in line.