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[cart_man]

Hi Everyone

I have a relatively new mx bike that has a seized motor and I have always wanted to do an Electronic conversion.
So I have set out on doing research. I have found that allot of people use the Golden motor 10KW with their controller.

However I feel like 10KW might not be sufficient for the bike since taking the frame weight with batteries and cooling system into consideration it gets heavy relatively quickly.
Also I want to have it do 100Km at least before needing a recharge and also at least 140Km.h since riding on the highway with anything less is very stressful.

However I do not know where I can get a reliable battery pack. I thought of buying Tesla motor battery packs or even ZERO battery packs but I dont know if they sell to the public.

The other question I have is HOW can I get my hands on a ZERO Motor and ZERO Battery packs? Who can I buy them from?

Thanks
Cart

[NEW2elec]

They sell them to the public.  You can email Zero or find your closest dealer and tell them what you want.

I would caution you though unless you have done this kind of thing before this is a major project.
I've seen guys make "electric conversion bikes" but they are weak and jerky toys (most of them).
A used Zero FX would most likely make you happier in the end.
Good luck.

[cart_man]

No for sure you see bad projects with weak motors but that is why I am trying to figure out if a 10KW motor would be sufficient for the project.

Ive seen some nice relatively fast bikes with the 10KW but they have very limited range and also no liquid cooling so they weigh very little.
Which is why I am opting for at least a 15KW motor to counter the weight of the extra batteries and liquid cooling.

Do you think their controller wont be good in a motorbike scenario (Talking about GoldenMotors Controller)?

Thanks

[NEW2elec]

I'm not an EE so the best advise I can give you is to really research the Zero FX FXS and Alta SM and EX specs since you want a commuter.  Look at their battery size controller size gearing, top speed and range.  Then figure you can't do it that well (sorry).  I mean there is a lot of engineering that these guys do.
My hats off to you for wanting to make an electric bike from a broken gas bike but you would really need major help working out what your frame could even handle.  If your suspension could take the weight of the batteries needed to give you the power and range you want for your commute.
I think in 3 or 4 years companies like Bosch and others are making more "plug and play" EV components.  But a new Zero motor will be over $3000, batteries could come from a salvaged Leaf or Tesla but you need a BMS and a controller that handles enough amps for what you want.  A DC-DC converter for the lights and turn signals for the road. 
I love the idea myself but I know it's way more than I could handle.  I know just enough to be really dangerous.
You know what you can do so if your heart is set on doing it and money and time is no issue than I wish you luck but just a friendly hint most of the big EEs on here are helpful with bike issues but stay away from the ground up projects.
On a side note in the "for sale" section on the forum there is a guy selling his R6 converted bike which I think has a 2014 Zero SR motor and other parts you  may want.  He was asking $4500 but wants it gone and may part it out.
Good luck.

[Frank]

MX bike is street legal? 

[NEW2elec]

From the OP it says he wants an E Commuter so unless there is just a field between him and work it would have to be street legal.  Lights, turn signals, plate holder, road legal tires on top of the e conversion.

I did mean to tell him about "endless sphere" forum as they are more project minded.

[Frank]

That was my point... endless sphere is a good suggestion for him.  For commuting there's now several good e- bicycle choices too. 

[cart_man]

Hi Frank

The bicycles are cool although there is a stretch of highway between me and my place of work.
Riding in a field in my country will most likely get you killed or robbed.
Especially if you do it every day on a schedule.

Lights are luckily not too much of a problem as I have added indicators and lights before with relative ease and it was cheap. A Plate holder might be a but different for sure.
Road tires can be sorted quite easy.

My biggest foreseeable problem in my very limited EV Experience is battery mountings.
But because I dont need a fuel tank or radiators I could try and mount up a couple of extra packs with the big battery bank in the middle above the motor.
I spoke to a guy who has been paid to do a couple of conversions and he said a 15KW motor would already be a bit of an overkill but if I want to reach 140km.h then its probably the way to go.

Another concern is what happens to the power generated by the motor when I coast down a long road?

Thanks

[Frank]

Some systems can regenerate, that is, recharge the battery when coasting.  I think 15 kW is marginal to reach 140 know/hr

[cart_man]

Well I can get the 20KW motor but it seems to only be capable of 5k RPM where the 15KW can go up to 6K RPM.
Also you can spike the 15KW motor up to about 39KW or soo if I am not mistaken. For a little while of course.

The reason I mention the RPM is because if I want my top speed to be more then surely I want more RPM right?

Its just that the 20KW motor will be much more expensive and will weigh more of course.
Here are the stats.

20KW - Motor
Voltage 72 - 120 VDC
Rated Power : 20-25KW
Peak power: 50KW
Speed : 3200-5000RPM
Rated Torque : 80Nm
Peak Torque : 160Nm
Efficiency: >90%
Dimensions: 30x30x25cm   <-   HUGE
Weight: 39kgs
Liquid cooling.


10KW motor

Voltage:48V/72V/96V/120V
Rated Power:8KW-20KW
Efficeincy: 91%
Phase Resistance (Milliohm): 3.1/48V; 6.0/72V; 18.0/120V
Phase Induction(100KHZ): 34uH/48V; 77uH/72V; 252uH/120v
Speed: 2000-6000rpm (customizable)
Weight:17Kg(air),17.7kg(water); Casing: Aluminium
Length (height): 170mm Diameter: 206mm
Keyway size: 6.4mm(W) x 45mm(L) x 21.7mm(D:25.4mm)

so the 20 KW seems to be roughly x2 that of every property of the 10KW soo if you times the 10KW with 1.5 you would probably get that in the ball park ... hopefully.

On second thought ... how hard is it to build your own 3Phase brushless DC Motor? A 20KW one.
Should maybe just build it into a rim?
That would actually be very unbalanced though!

[Frank]

Well I can get the 20KW motor but it seems to only be capable of 5k RPM where the 15KW can go up to 6K RPM.
Also you can spike the 15KW motor up to about 39KW or soo if I am not mistaken. For a little while of course.

The reason I mention the RPM is because if I want my top speed to be more then surely I want more RPM right?

Its just that the 20KW motor will be much more expensive and will weigh more of course.
Here are the stats.

20KW - Motor
Voltage 72 - 120 VDC
Rated Power : 20-25KW
Peak power: 50KW
Speed : 3200-5000RPM
Rated Torque : 80Nm
Peak Torque : 160Nm
Efficiency: >90%
Dimensions: 30x30x25cm   <-   HUGE
Weight: 39kgs
Liquid cooling.


10KW motor

Voltage:48V/72V/96V/120V
Rated Power:8KW-20KW
Efficeincy: 91%
Phase Resistance (Milliohm): 3.1/48V; 6.0/72V; 18.0/120V
Phase Induction(100KHZ): 34uH/48V; 77uH/72V; 252uH/120v
Speed: 2000-6000rpm (customizable)
Weight:17Kg(air),17.7kg(water); Casing: Aluminium
Length (height): 170mm Diameter: 206mm
Keyway size: 6.4mm(W) x 45mm(L) x 21.7mm(D:25.4mm)

so the 20 KW seems to be roughly x2 that of every property of the 10KW soo if you times the 10KW with 1.5 you would probably get that in the ball park ... hopefully.

On second thought ... how hard is it to build your own 3Phase brushless DC Motor? A 20KW one.
Should maybe just build it into a rim?
That would actually be very unbalanced though!

Peak power is often a function of cooling.  Even though it's not stated for the smaller motor, maybe it will do the job.

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