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[ZeroMark]

Hey, I've played a little with the Zero motorcycle app and my 2014 DS 11.4 bike, but honestly, I've never really managed to set anything that really "felt" any different.  If Eco is setup for economy and Sport is for quick and sporty, can "custom" settings go "below" what Eco does in terms of maximum range, minimum power and torgue and greatest ride-distance.  Can the custom settings exceed the Sport settings?  If so, then what items can i set to feel these differences?

What I would like to hear from someone would be 2 sets of custom settings that exploit the 2 "ends" of the spectrum-> one set of settings that are purely for max distance and minimal consumption.  The other settings would be max power/and/or/speed to get from here to there and consumption of power the least of my worries.

In other words, I want to "feel" the two extremes....

Can someone give me some numbers to plug into my phone app so I can feel the difference?

-MARK

[Falco]

First off, making changes via the app is not going to change the effeciency of the bike. The eco and sport modes are set for this difference you are wanting to expirence. You can reduce the torque in the custom mode to 0% but that is of the range you can adjust and not actually 0% as the motor will still apply torque in accellerating. In the custom mode I have set them all to max. This gives the most regen and most accelleration at the expense of heating the motor up quicker. If I was to reduce my power consumption then I have 2 options.
1. Lower my cruise speed and/or
2. Dont accellerate as hard.
When the bike is at speed it is only consuming as much power as required to maintain its speed regardless of the app settings
The custom mode is good for setting a top speed and using it as cruise control to prevent you 'hunting for a speed' which will consume more power. So if you need to travel at 75 then make that the top speed in the app and ride at full throttle to enjoy effortless stable speed.
The harder you accellerate the more heat you produce. This is wasted energy as it can no longer be used. The aim is to keep the motor cool as a cooler motor will have a slightly lower resistance in the wiring which will increase the efficency of they whole system.

If you want max range then go 0% motor torque. Top speed set to the top speed you will go. Regen to 100%. Then increase motor torque till you have enough torque to not be a hazard on the road. The eco and sport modes set by zero are pretty good though.
Custom mode does not exceed sport mode in accelleration.
Is this the info you were after?

[trekguy]

Great question and great answer.  Thanks 
I will try and set my parameters today.
6 weeks old and comming up on 2500 miles my SR.  I was detailing it yesterday, and the "R" from ZERO was ready to fall off, so I had to reglue it back on. I also noticed the "E" getting loose as well.
Check your letters, gentlemen.

[Richard230]

What I did was to set my throttle regen at 0% and my braking regen at 100%.  I set my top speed at 94 mph, which will give me the same power as in "sport".  I just control my torque and power by using my throttle.  I figure I can do that better than the controller.  With these settings you can definitely feel the difference between the sport , eco, and your custom modes when riding, with regard to regen drag.

[trikester]

The most efficient mode is as Richard230 has done. Free coasting when you roll off the throttle, and don't need to brake, will get you the most distance. Then when you do need to brake, have it set to 100% regen when the brake light goes on. Free coasting is always more efficient than regen when you don't need additional deceleration beyond what the free coasting provides.

People have said on this forum that they want some "engine braking" when they roll off the throttle so they don't set the no brake regen to 0. That is only because of what they are accustom to. Get over it and learn a new riding technique. It won't take long. They didn't have "engine braking" when they rode a bicycle and stopped pedaling. When I'm riding in traffic and I roll off the throttle it feels perfectly natural to have the bike coast freely and if I need "engine braking" I put on the brake light or if I need more deceleration I use the brakes. It's all a matter of training, if a rider wants maximum range. If that isn't your goal then by all means stick with what you are used to.

Trikester

[joystix2]

So I take it the only performance parameters you can make changes to is in the Custom mode? Not the Eco or Sport mode?

Ric

[Patrick Truchon]

One way to think of it is that every time you generate heat, you waste energy.  This happen two (or three) ways you can control:

• Friction between the brake pads and the rotor
• Using regen braking, which heats the motor (to a much less extent than using the brakes though)
• Air drag (which using a Vetter fairing helps with)

So like Richard said, the best way is to let air drag slow you down by having 0% throttle regen and planing your stops way ahead.  And if you have to brake, by using regen braking as much as possible.

But really, all of this is pretty negligible compared to air drag, which is very significant at high speeds, so it's a game we like to play more than real savings in energy I think...

[Justin Andrews]

0% regen while coasting is honestly the way forwards.

I find I get irritated by the engine braking when I'm on my ICE bike these days. 

[DynoMutt]

I like saving the brake pads in normal operation and using them for full stops and emergencies only.

top speed 67 MPH, 30% torque, 100% regen on 0 throttle position.

[steven_first]

using the app you can change the regen to 0 and brake regen to 100.  That way when you let of the throttle you coast but if you just pull in on the brake leaver you will get full regen.  My experience with my FX thus far has been that regen gets me about 5%-10% more range.

[m0t0-ryder]

Great question and great answer.  Thanks 
I will try and set my parameters today.
6 weeks old and comming up on 2500 miles my SR.  I was detailing it yesterday, and the "R" from ZERO was ready to fall off, so I had to reglue it back on. I also noticed the "E" getting loose as well.
Check your letters, gentlemen.

Known issue on some tank decals.
Contact Zero (or your dealer) and ask for a replacement set of decals.
Be sure to specify silver or black chrome for decal color.
Also clean the decal area with isopropyl alcohol before installing new decals.

[trikester]

I have stated elsewhere in this forum that I have regen set for 0 on throttle and 100% on brake light in ECO mode and I had Harlan set it for 0 on throttle and 60% on brake light in SPORT mode. Then I added a momentary switch on the left handler bar so that I can initiate regen by activating the brake light. This is very handy in dirt riding where I need slowing frequently without using the mechanical brakes.

Normally I use the 100% in ECO mode dirt riding unless I'm concerned about the rear wheel traction. In those riding conditions I'll ride in SPORT to get less regen braking.

trikester

[DynoMutt]

I like that idea for my commuter needs.

I think I now have an excuse for getting the CAN bus harness together.

[joystix2]

Trikester,
How do you change settings in ECO mode? I thought on the app you only can change settings in CUSTOM mode only???

Ric

[trikester]

Mine is a 2013 FX. It doesn't have a custom mode so the only changes I can make, using the app, are to the ECO mode. As mentioned, I went to Harlan for the SPORT mode changes.

I also had him lower the speed at which the regen starts to diminish. The factory setting is 15 mph starting reduction & trailing off to 0 at about 5 mph. Both modes on mine are now set to start reducing regen about 5 mph and reach 0 at about 1 1/2 mph. This is very useful in technical or difficult dirt riding where I want regen braking at low speeds. On pavement it also allows me to get more out of the regen as I approach stops.

trikester