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[DesignerDan]

Does anyone know the proper way of changing the front sprocket?

I tried taking the left swing arm bolt out but I couldn't get a 24 mm wrench on that inside nut. Even if I got a wrench in there, there still isn't enough clearance for the old sprocket to slide off of the shaft. I ended up taking off the four motor bolts on the right side of the bike (the ones with the nuts that jam the motor into place) then reinstalling the bolts and loosening the left motor bolts so the whole motor would slide as far right as possible. I was able to get the left swing arm bolt off with the motor slid over.

Before I proceed I was just wondering if this is the correct method for doing this? I searched the forum and found that with the 2012 bikes it was necessary to take the whole motor out. The 2013 motor is much bigger and it won't just drop out of the bottom unless bottom of the bike is taken off. (the black charger guard for lack of a better word) But then I would have no way of jacking up the bike. (I'm using a center jack)

[BSDThw]

I did it with my 2012 I had to remove the wheel, the shock, the small fender, motor and sensor cables.
You have to lift the swing arm as high as possible and than you can fiddle out the motor.

I mentioned it in an other thread I did it twice because my sprocket got loos when I test rode the bike.

The second time I was looking for the tightest position of the splinter between the shaft and the sprocket pressed it in as close-fitting as possible and used a screw locking varnish (one that allows you to reopen it again ) there is also a small screw at the inside pressing the splinter down (it was loos on my bike) I now use it to fix the splinter too.
 
I think it will be not much easier at a 2013! My experience is if you don't have the motor removed you will likely suck to get the sprocket fixed.

BTW I was holding the sprocket with a strap wrenches!   

[DesignerDan]

Well I gave up lol

I ended up taking the motor out but the stock sprocket and shaft must have been forged as one unit in the fires of Mordor. I couldn't even get the 6mm bolt out. I had over a foot of leverage and it just would not budge.

I'm sure there's a way to get it off without damaging anything but it has become more trouble than it's worth. I hope Zero will make a larger rear sprocket. Now THAT would be easy to swap.

[BSDThw]

I hope Zero will make a larger rear sprocket. Now THAT would be easy to swap.

Than you need a larger belt => you have to remove the swing arm too

Maybe they used the real strong Loctite ? because of the clicking problem

Maybe to heat up the parts could help, but I am not sure if I had the balls to use so much force, I rode a 2013 S and the acceleration was real good.
 
I would like to have  a running bike - maybe a winter project to change or get changed by a dealer (don't know were you life but winter time is mod time for me!)

[Richard230]

Loctite is typically used on the bolt at the bottom of the motorcycle forks that holds the damper rod in place on damper-rod type forks.  Most of the time you need to heat up that bolt in order to be able to loosen it, even with an impact gun.  So it is quite possible the heating the sprocket bolt with a torch would help loosen it, along with using an impact gun to break it loose.

[JohnSki]

Degigner Dan, I work with a lot of sprockets on large motors.  Typically the bolts you pull off to unlock the sprocket get put back into the other holes that look like spare holes. By tightening the bolts in the other holes the sprocket normally pops right off.  If this is not the case a gear puller may be better that trying to pry it off. I would not put heat on it if there are any bearings or seals that the heat could conduct to.  Liquidwench penetrating oil is always worth a try.

[Christian Frankl]

I just replaced the front sprocket of my FX 2013. The best way is to remove the swingarm.
For that, remove the rear wheel, the lower screw of the suspension and the screws, which holds the brake-line.
remove both Screws at the swingarm-axle.

Then you have access to the sprocket.

Best regards,

Christian

[firepower]

Another good reason for a repair manual. shame on ZERO for not having one available.
Maybe asking Clymer or Haynes to make one.

[rayivers]

I found these online - they seem quite good to me:

http://freepdfhosting.com/bb590a712d.pdf
http://freepdfhosting.com/3455cf1dcd.pdf

I sent a '14 FX service manual request to Clymer on Friday - maybe if a bunch of us did it for various years/models they might consider it.  Anything they came up with - no matter how basic - would be so much better than nothing.

Ray

[DesignerDan]

Thanks, this was helpful.