So, I decided to change the pulley sprocket because I want more zip off the line and because I very rarely need to exceed 130kmh. Combined with only have one point left on my lisence, this seemed like a good experiment and gave me a chance to really get in a dig around for the first time in thirty thousand kilometers. I also live not far from the coast so corrosion and sand are a constant threat.
Motor Removal
I had been warned it would be a bitch job so enlisted a mate and worked steadily. This is the rough order that seems to work well. - Remove the seat, sidecovers and controller cover to start making access easier. I also removed the tank. Cut as many zip ties on the cable loom as you can easily get to under the seat to allow you to heave the loom around. Remove the brake pedal, axle, rear wheel and bottom shock mount. Remove the rubber bungs and the swingarm bolts, allowing the swingarm to be removed. All pretty easy stuff.
Now you have easy access to the motor.
At this stage, we isolated the battery by removing the main leads, a delicate job without much room. Very easy to short the terminals, so go slow and insulate them with tape or rubber hose and ideally use an insulated spanner. We then also unplugged the motor to controller multi plug (tricky bugger with a plastic locking clip) and the three main leads that go to the controller.
We then tried to undo the 3mm grub screw on the pulley and only manage to break bits and twist allen keys. Gave it a little heat but didnt want to risk seal damage, couldnt move it. Decided to remove the whole motor and take it to a specialist. Removing teh top shock bolts is a very fiddly job with odd 15mm spanners required. Very tight space and can barely get a socket in place; lots of cursing to do that.
Removing the motor requires some long allen keys to reach through the frame and the removal of the kickstand assembly. Pretty straight forward to remove the bolts, then the adjustable space nuts. I used a car jack with a plate bolted to it to take the weight and then gently lower.
Service checks
Since I will have a week or so delay while the motor is worked on I cleaned and checked everything. As a rule, I replace the zinc coated bolts and allen screws with stainless to assist next time.
Noticed several interesting things!
My swingarm bearings are very notchy, particularly the belt side bearing. They look pretty easy to swap and standard sizes so Ill do them. 30k is pretty poor for such under stressed bearings. I also checked my rear wheel bearings and they are horrendous; lumpy, tight and a pretty fuckin far from ok. Along with the seals, I'll replace them too and I'm assuming the fronts are possibly similar. On the rear I noticed the internal tube spacer is very tight on the inner ace, I'll measure them properly to make sure its all good but think i read somewhere else that someone discovered this could be an issue.
I've already replaced the steering head bearings (under warranty) so that makes a full swap of all 8 sets of bearings. The irony and disappointment is that compared to my ICE bike, i have a bout ten times less bearings so i kind of expected less maintenance and bearing wear. Maybe bad luck, maybe shit bearings, maybe poor assembly, certainly some environmental factors but really, I expected more.
Other than this, everything else looks pretty good. No electrical corrosion or chafing of cables and the bolt corrosion that is visible is pretty minor for three years and better than many bikes I see. I've replaced the belt once at 20k which was a speed hump related test ride by a mate" victim I think." What I dont like is the amount of water and dirt being thrown up behind the steering head where all the wiring looms connect and the same at the rear around the sock and DC to DC. Everything is holding up but some rubber or plastic shrouds would reduce the potential for future problems markedly. I also note that there is a decent layer of belt dust on almost everything. Mostly rubber I assume, but a bit of carbon too I assume. Much better than any bike Ive ever worked on for cleanliness, but again a shroud would help keep the crud away from electronics.
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Topic: 30,000 service 2014 DS (Read 566 times)