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[trekguy]

And the seat seems to be comming loose. Whenever I hit a big bump, a loud squeak comes from somewhere; I assume its the seat since the fit of it is so poor.  Besides  that, the rough ride and far-from-comfortable seat,  I'm pretty happy with the bike. I'm trying to take the smoothest roads when possible!

Just love the seamless, effortless acceleration.

[KrazyEd]

Take a close look at the rear fender area. I was noticing some squeaking from the rear of my 2012 XU.
Didn't pay much attention, until one day my rear fender had pulled through the bolts holding it in place.
My 2013 FX seems to be sturdier, but, I would still check.

[NoiseBoy]

Its probably the rear fender/number plate holder. Mine is flapping about and making horrible noises but I need to take half the bike apart to fix it. This is a 2012 bike but I bet it mounts to the subframe the same way.

[Doug S]

The seat on my SR was fine, but a few months into my ownership, I developed a rattle near the headlight (after I installed my windshield, but it wasn't the windshield). A little investigating revealed that the two lower headlight bracket bolts were not there, and no marks that would indicate they'd been installed and had worked their way loose. I got two black hex-head screws from the nearby hardware store, installed them and haven't had a problem since.

I keep reminding myself that it is a new product, and quality control isn't fully developed yet. And don't get me wrong, I love my bike. I just wish I could get myself to stop waiting for the other shoe to drop.

[krash7172]

My SR has squeaked over bumps since day 1. I don't know what it is but it's not the seat or fender.

[trekguy]

Thanks for all the suggestions. 
Ill do a look/see/feel myself before taking it to a trusted shop for mending.

[NanoMech]

It probably seems too obvious, but could it be the rear shock that you are hearing as a squeak? Mine has been squeaking from day one, and is most pronounced on rough roads. It is a short persistence squeak, more pronounced on rough roads.

Removal of the seat provides access to the bolts/screws holding on the rear pseudo-fender struts piece that holds the license plate, in addition to the small painted fender piece and brake light assembly that is really difficult to remove.

One benefit to removal of the seat, a 1 minute task if you have the correct metric allen wrench, is that you will discover a great location to store the Zero toolkit, copies of license and registration/insurance, and even a brake lock, in my case. I only need to carry the allen wrench to access all of these items. This is true on my 2014 DS and may differ with other bikes.

[trekguy]

If it were the rear shock, wouldn't I be able to duplicate the squeak by pushing firmly down on the parked bike to replicate the noise?  Like I said, that seat is loose and poorly fitting around the framework, so I will try both parts to see what I can find.

While I have the seat off, maybe I can add a thick layer of memory foam for more cushioning.

[NanoMech]

If it were the rear shock, wouldn't I be able to duplicate the squeak by pushing firmly down on the parked bike to replicate the noise?  Like I said, that seat is loose and poorly fitting around the framework, so I will try both parts to see what I can find.

While I have the seat off, maybe I can add a thick layer of memory foam for more cushioning.

I'm not sure you can load the rear shock as rapidly as a bump in the road. I can hear mine squeak and swish, as the fluid is dampening the rebound, and shorter length/faster and higher rise-times accentuate the noise level.

I added a layer of memory foam, widened the seat, and built more of a saddle seat. I used Ostrich leather for the top because it matches my painting on the fairing. The seat is much better now, no doubt, and actually comfortable for 2-3 hours of driving through the mountains.