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[biolife]

Ah, very good point. My bad!

I think it would still be stored within the bike. If you're not afraid of potentially losing your data, you can try deleting the app and resyncing with your bike to see what happens. Alternatively, you can try using someone else's device to download the app and sync with your bike to see what shows.

[kensiko]

All right I should be able to find someone and test on his phone.

[kensiko]

I finally did it! The timing was good, the weather was absolutely beautiful and I had someone following me for the first part, it was reassuring. I didn't do the 130 km at once. The longest I did was 100 km when returning home, and I ended with 26% left, the last part (10 km) done at 90 km/h without lowering my head.

I went at the same speed than my first 80 km trip:
- Around 80 km/h and slower when wind comes into play or hills.
- Lowering my head when acceptable. I don't find it acceptable when many cars are around me, I'm not driving a slow 50cc scooter!
- Tires at almost max pressure.
- Eco mode with 3% max torque.
- Outside temperature over 20 deg C.

I know the speed on the bike is around 4-5% higher than real speed, so I probably rode at a maximum speed of about 76 km/h. It's not very fast, I know, but with this speed, I feel more secure because I could possibly do 140 km with the single charge. I try to have 12 km per SoC bar. I had one with 8 km only and the wind caused it.

The other 30 km part was done with a full charge and full speed. Overall I'm really satisfied with the range. I don't think I would try the 130 km at once. I'd rather try to go at a higher speed and charge at the 100 km stop.

[Doctorbass]

I did a 2200km trip during my vacation last week in the north of Quebec. This was with my new added 6kWh to my 2012 ZF9 for a total of ZF15 ( 13.4kWh usable) and I was able to manage 200km per charge on the road at about 90km/h.

At that speed I am at about 70-80Wh per km depending on the wind.

My trick is to maintain the Wh per km stable at the calculated value so in this way I am sure I get the desired range.

(on the 2012 there is no Wh per km indication so I'm using the cycle analyst that I added a year ago)

Ex I know that I have 200Ah total at 66.6V with my two added ZF3 modules. This give me about 13400 Wh energy usable.

If I need to do let say 180km trip to reach the next charge station I calculate 13400wh/180km = 74.4Wh per km witch correspond to the target consumption I have to maintain while I'm riding my Zero. I have a graph where I previously measured the Wh/km at every speed and I know that at 74.4Wh per km this correspond at a speed close to 85km/h.

I don't count the regen in this calculation since it is nearly unexisting on the road.

The ZF11.4 is a 10kWh real usable energy. in that case to do 130km you need to go not faster than a speed corresponding to  10000/130 = 76.9Wh per km wich correspond to about 88km/h speed in my case.

Doc

[kensiko]

200 km at 90 km/h that's a damn good range for an electric bike! And I assume you didn't bother to lower you head?

The 2012 is definitely more efficient.

[Richard230]

200 km at 90 km/h that's a damn good range for an electric bike! And I assume you didn't bother to lower you head?

The 2012 is definitely more efficient.

Not at high speeds, it isn't.  My 2014 S is noticeably more efficient above 50 mph than was my 2012 S, ridden over the same roads at the same speeds.  But I do believe that the 2012 model is more efficient at speeds below 40 mph.

[Doctorbass]

200 km at 90 km/h that's a damn good range for an electric bike! And I assume you didn't bother to lower you head?

The 2012 is definitely more efficient.

Not at high speeds, it isn't.  My 2014 S is noticeably more efficient above 50 mph than was my 2012 S, ridden over the same roads at the same speeds.  But I do believe that the 2012 model is more efficient at speeds below 40 mph.

You are totally right! The lower voltage the 2012 operate at require the controller to go in Field Weakening mode sooner to keep great speed and have the motor spin fast enough. Field weakening pass a certain point is less efficient. Actually on my 2012 S and the 75-7 motor efficiency is pretty "linear" from 0 to 95kmh.. then above that it beging to raise alot!

I might change the 28T for a 30T to give me like 6 or 7 more km/h to get a great 100-105km/h cruise speed instead of 92-97kmh...

Or maybe go with the 98T/28T combo and replace the belt and get higher speed to avoid the need of having the field weakening feature of the controller to enable at cruise speed...

When field weakening activate i think it'S when you can feel more intense vibration from the motor suddenly at a given speed. it'S when you feel it vibrate like a 60Hz AC motor .

Actually mine begin to vibrate more at 95 kmh when battery is full.

Doc