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Author Topic: Vetterizing my Zero  (Read 2013 times)

Burton

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Vetterizing my Zero
« on: May 04, 2014, 05:38:18 AM »

I figured I should start a thread on here so people can ask questions and get updates. For a couple weeks now I have been posting content to my blog, youtube, and flickr accounts documenting the stuff I am doing to the bike. This week was more exciting because I started to make sub frame mock ups for the bike so I figured I would post up a thread.

Blog: www.callmeburton.com
youtube: ( zero specific play list )
Flickr (for those who wish to stalk me): https://www.flickr.com/photos/71805301@N05/

I likely will not simply repeat content here that I have already created elsewhere and will likely answer questions, and post updates to the project. Going to get back to my wire daigram in visio as I am only on line 60 of 160 >_< I hope I can finish it this weekend but I have to create a new bracket for my ninja tomorrow as I broke another upper stay -_- so might not get it done.
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Burton

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Re: Vetterizing my Zero
« Reply #1 on: May 11, 2014, 06:23:28 AM »

Getting a lot closer to getting the new seat pan / rear sub frame mocked up. If I don't have any distractions tomorrow I will likely have something made of wood which is the first step required to confirm I can move on to metal and cut the frame.

But until I can register my bike I cannot cut the frame as I would like to register it and get it inspected before chopping it up and having to figure out where the hell I am going to place the size six controller hanging on the part I am going to cut! lol


Since the 4th I have uploaded the following videos.

Fabricating sub frame pt 2

Trying to figure out a best course of action now since I am using wood / cardboard / screws / tape etc instead of metal so I can transfer the designs later.
Other notes:
The three blinking lights were indicating the battery is balance.
I forgot to mention another option being to extend the tube out and put spacers where the bottom two bolts are to be able to angle it as Vetter suggested.


Measuring where rear will bottom out:

In order to continue mocking up my rear for streamlining I had to secure Turbo and measure where the rear tire will bottom out. With this I will be able to create my wheel well and better figure out my rear sub frame.


Fabricating sub frame mock up pt3:

Couple hours of work put in today, not too much. Slowly getting there.
In this video I explain adjustments I had to make the the template and future changes hopefully to get completed this weekend.


Fabricating sub frame mock up pt4

first cardboard seat pan on the bike and the issues I will have to deal with are a lot more obvious.


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NoiseBoy

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Re: Vetterizing my Zero
« Reply #2 on: May 11, 2014, 05:45:43 PM »

Your documentation of this project is excellent Burton.  Always enjoy watching the videos even though it isn't something i would ever be likely to attempt.  I'm sure the views will pick up once it gets closer to completion and people start seeing you on the street.
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Burton

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Re: Vetterizing my Zero
« Reply #3 on: May 11, 2014, 06:19:05 PM »

I am just winging it :)

It is neat to watch about 6 people watch a video soon after release; it always seems to be about 6 too. If the video views don't pick up it won't bother me. I am not making content to get paid from it so no need to count views.

As I complete parts I will likely make vector drawings of them available for record and for others to reference. New headlights come Wednesday so I will likely switch focus to the front of the bike where I plan to put the U-Bolt bracket so I can get the bike registered.
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Burton

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Re: Vetterizing my Zero
« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2014, 05:51:57 AM »

Got wood mockup on bike and messed it up >_<

Still trying to figure out where I am going to put my controller. The bike has been 2 days without it being on the charger but I made sure it was topped off before removing everything.

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rollandelliott

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Re: Vetterizing my Zero
« Reply #5 on: May 12, 2014, 10:41:38 AM »

why are you doing the back ferring first?
the front is what gives you the most aerodynamic and range improvements.
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Burton

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Re: Vetterizing my Zero
« Reply #6 on: May 12, 2014, 03:28:24 PM »

why are you doing the back ferring first?
the front is what gives you the most aerodynamic and range improvements.

If you go back and watch the older videos in the series first, I know boring right?, you will find out in order to properly place the turret / front cowl you have to know your seating position first. When I first set the bike up with the default seating position I realized something was off after finding the "ideal" location for the turret on my computer.

A quick email exchange with Vetter confirmed this and he said I need to lower my seating position and flatten out the rear. These are both tough challenges on a 2013 frame given the rear is not straight to start with. Terry only had to extend his rear frame out where as I would have to cut part of the frame off and then extend it out.

The mock-up's I have been doing are to try and figure out the best way to build the rear out so it is both stable, strong, and doesn't interfere with the bikes function. The idea being to identify any issues now before committing to cutting the frame. Once I cut off those two supports jetting out at an angle from the bike there is no going back unless I find a very good welder. In fact one of my early ideas was to simply cut these and rotate them then reweld them.

So basically I need to figure out the rear first before going on to the front, but this doesn't mean I need to make the rear first though it would be nice to have seating once I cut the frame ^_^
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rollandelliott

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Re: Vetterizing my Zero
« Reply #7 on: May 12, 2014, 06:04:00 PM »

how much improvement overall do you expect to gain 50%?

I'm surprised no one has made an aerodynamic motor cycle that is STAND UP position that has a windshield which goes over the riders head and forms a roof.

All the designs I have seen have the riders head getting smacked by the wind.

the few that do have complete roofs, are either recumbant or lean forward designs.
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protomech

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Re: Vetterizing my Zero
« Reply #8 on: May 12, 2014, 07:03:01 PM »

There are a handful of cabin-enclosed single track vehicles. Seating position tends to be recumbent, due to a) minimizing the height of the vehicle b) rider comfort.

BMW C1 (ancient)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_C1

Monotracer MTE-150
http://peraves.wordpress.com

Lit Motors C1
http://litmotors.com/c1/
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Burton

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Re: Vetterizing my Zero
« Reply #9 on: May 12, 2014, 07:48:16 PM »

I was told to expect at least 50% increase in range.

As Protomech has pointed out there are some which already exist :)
Also the Elio, from Elio Motors, is considered a motorcycle and gets 83mpg fully enclosed but it is a reversed trike.

Vetter's design is easy on your head while having enough wind for venting and keeping the rain off it.

The problem with putting a roof on a normal bike is how tall you end up making the bike. Not the greatest for wind resistance. Even I am taking measures to reduce my seating height  to reduce my front section, something Terry said he is going to try and do as well. But he will only be able to lower his seat about 4" where as I will be closer to 7-9"
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rollandelliott

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Re: Vetterizing my Zero
« Reply #10 on: May 12, 2014, 09:45:32 PM »

you might want to ask your friend schultz if 50% is really feasible?
he emailed e and told me that i'd only get 20% more by using a aerotech dustbin fairing.
and his own web site data shows dustbin vs recumbant bike has same effciency

so wouldn't one conclude that the rear would then need to gain another 30% to total 50%?
hard to believe when the front fairing only improves it by 20%.
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Burton

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Re: Vetterizing my Zero
« Reply #11 on: May 12, 2014, 09:59:09 PM »

Terry was the one who informed me of the range increase. And it was backed up by Alan's stats on his ninja 250.  But both have tails, and the last vetter fairing up front. Also worth noting both have straight tails which I have been informed will increase drag of said tail at least two times compared to an ideal shapped tail of the same length; not sure how much that would translate into miles/kwh though. And the guys as the ecomodder site believe the big gains are in the tail but without the proper Mair contour transition (smooth transition) before the tail it wouldn't work so well.

Schultz made his recumbent because the dustbin wasn't comfortable to ride on if I recall.

With all that stated I want to set this up as a test bed and do crazy things like run the bike stock on the same day I run it with just the front cowl, on the same day I run it with the straight tail, on the same day I run it with the ideal shaped tail.  =) Thankfully the design lends itself to being removed easily.
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