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Author Topic: Things to do when you first get your Zero  (Read 3279 times)

EastSider

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Re: Things to do when you first get your Zero
« Reply #15 on: April 17, 2013, 03:41:13 AM »

I just looked again at the 2013 Owner's Manual (Draft dated Dec. 21), and there is nothing about a run-in period. Perhaps the newer (2012-2013) batteries and BMS do not require a break-in period?
However, I do hope its true about the capacity increasing with time and usage, as my 11.4 kWh battery indicates it is full at around 10.6 kWh.

EastSider
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trikester

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Re: Things to do when you first get your Zero
« Reply #16 on: April 17, 2013, 09:42:55 AM »


I did notice a definite increase in the range of my 2012 DS after a number of long rides.

Too soon to tell on my 2013 FX but I am expecting an increase with early usage. That seems to be the way of the lithium battery.

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mehve

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Re: Things to do when you first get your Zero
« Reply #17 on: April 17, 2013, 10:13:29 AM »

We're getting different info that's for sure. The two sheets were presented to me at the dealer  and they were saying that the run-in period was also new to them. I'll relay this thread and let them figure it out.  It's pretty important to get consistent info across the board, not just for us here but other owners who aren't on here.

It sure would be nice to get an up-to date manual to go with an expensive piece of gear that we want to make sure lasts a good long while.


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Rides a 2013 Zero S 11.4

protomech

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Re: Things to do when you first get your Zero
« Reply #18 on: April 17, 2013, 11:13:30 AM »

Both maximum and nominal capacity ratings are calculated by multiplying a certain pack voltage times nominal bank capacity.

Maximum capacity selects the charge cut-off voltage 114 V. 114 V x 100 Ah is 11.4 kWh.

Nominal capacity selects an intermediate voltage of 100 V. 100 V x 100 Ah is 10.0 kWh. Note that the pack voltage will vary from 114 V to approximately 86 V as it discharges; so 100 V is a rough approximation of average voltage over the entire range of discharge.

Nominal capacity is a rough approximation of actual energy stored in the pack, but it's much closer than maximum capacity. The ZF11.4 pack can never provide 11.4 kWh under any remotely reasonable circumstances, but probably can provide 10.0 kWh under moderate discharge and temperature conditions.

Another way to think of it is approximating distance traveled in two ways:
1. Total trip duration times highest observed speed (= maximum capacity)
2. Total trip duration times a median observed speed (= nominal capacity)

All this is another way of saying, 10.6 kWh energy used for a "full" charge of the pack is pretty good; Zero probably doesn't permit full discharges to the manufacturer's cutoff voltage (perhaps 90-95% total energy) and charging wall-to-battery is probably around 85% efficient. 10.0 kWh * 0.90 / 0.85 = 10.6 kWh to charge, approximately.
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1999 Honda VFR800i | 2014 Zero SR
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EastSider

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Re: Things to do when you first get your Zero
« Reply #19 on: April 17, 2013, 09:08:23 PM »

Both maximum and nominal capacity ratings are calculated by multiplying a certain pack voltage times nominal bank capacity.

Maximum capacity selects the charge cut-off voltage 114 V. 114 V x 100 Ah is 11.4 kWh.

Nominal capacity selects an intermediate voltage of 100 V. 100 V x 100 Ah is 10.0 kWh. Note that the pack voltage will vary from 114 V to approximately 86 V as it discharges; so 100 V is a rough approximation of average voltage over the entire range of discharge.

Nominal capacity is a rough approximation of actual energy stored in the pack, but it's much closer than maximum capacity. The ZF11.4 pack can never provide 11.4 kWh under any remotely reasonable circumstances, but probably can provide 10.0 kWh under moderate discharge and temperature conditions.

Another way to think of it is approximating distance traveled in two ways:
1. Total trip duration times highest observed speed (= maximum capacity)
2. Total trip duration times a median observed speed (= nominal capacity)

All this is another way of saying, 10.6 kWh energy used for a "full" charge of the pack is pretty good; Zero probably doesn't permit full discharges to the manufacturer's cutoff voltage (perhaps 90-95% total energy) and charging wall-to-battery is probably around 85% efficient. 10.0 kWh * 0.90 / 0.85 = 10.6 kWh to charge, approximately.

That is a great, illuminating explanation, protomech. Thank you!
-EastSider
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