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[SwampNut]

The day I bought my SR/S, I picked up a number of OEM accessories, without shopping or searching out user reviews.  My past experience with OEM parts has been all good, albeit at a premium price.  But I am willing to pay for great fit, great instructions, and good quality.  None of those apply to Zero's accessories except for two.

I'll start with the only good ones.  The upgraded front brake lever is fantastic.  I'm shocked at how much it improved brake power and feel.  From just a lever.  And the comfort is way better than the horribly-shaped stock lever.  Looks great too.  The price is absolutely insane however, but I'd still spend the money again.  The smoked lens LED signals are beautiful also, just stupidly overpriced at $160.  I believe that generic aftermarket ones would fit.  Either way you have to program the bike for them.

Luggage rack:  Insanely overpriced garbage and the Givi adapter won't fit correctly without extra parts.  Idiots.  Then once you do get the right bolts and move it back where it needs to be, the plastic flops around a LOT and the box is always bouncing.  So I had to build a reinforcement from an aluminum sheet.  I should have bought the T-Rex, which also has bungee loops.  I had to buy and add those myself.

Speaking of Givi...the Zero branded option is an absolutely insanely priced low end box, with the only benefit being a brand sticker on it.  Buy something else.  For the same price you can buy from the Givi high end line.  Without the Zero logo.  I hated the look of the other branded box, something from Shad that is horrifyingly ugly.

Swingarm spools.  I'm a moron.  Again, didn't shop, didn't ask prices, the dealer was offering 15% off all parts when you buy a bike.  They are $40 MSRP and worth maybe $5.  You can get better spools from Aliexpress for $10.  I know, I did that for my KTM.  The Zero spools are crappy and tiny.

12v accessory cable/adapter.  I sent this back.  It was offensively overpriced and HUGE.  I have no idea where I'd stuff the stupid thing.  I ended up just cutting off the stupid proprietary connector and put in a standard SAE connector like they have in the back of the back.  $8 from Amazon.

Touring screen.  Not crazy priced at least, but for me, it results in a lot of noise and buffeting on the highway.  Sure, it reduces the total wind, and increases range.  At the cost of pushing my helmet around and making things worse.  Junk.  I'm going to try cutting it and see if I can find a middle ground.  As far as I can find, there are --ahem-- zero options from the aftermarket for this bike.  And yes, I tried a winglet with no improvement.

The wheel chock looks like a direct clone of the Baxley, which is what I bought, but is half the price.  Shocking.  But because the other OEM parts were garbage, I paid extra for the Baxley, maybe without reason, don't know.  I do love it and it works SO well.  Absolutely recommended.  If they did just clone it, then the price is awesome.

I do like the TechSpec tank grips, but those aren't really OEM or branded.  They just happen to be sold at Zero dealers.  At a ludicrous price.  They are excellent though, and very helpful if you like to use a sport/racing body position in turns.

[Specter]

Why would you expect ANYthing sold at a dealer to be reasonably priced and / or of high quality?
That is how they make their money, with 'package deals' paying 10x as much for shit.

Not to mention the 200 dollar oil change for you new car, to keep the warranty valid now !!!!   that you can do yourself for about 40, et and so on type stuff.

That's one good thing about Energica so  far, they don't have a ton of aftermarket shit to gouge you on.

You mentioned your screen and helmet buffeting.  Get on the highway doing about 70 MPH and use your hand and feel around to find where the wind path is.  On my ribelle it's unfortunately hitting me right smack in the face.  get the airflow just above your helmet and you should be good.  I need to find something for the Ribelle to make the window a bit taller as I don't like to do extended runs in track hunch position to keep my helmet from wanting to smash in my face once I go 3 digits.

How does it increase efficiency?  I should know this but something is screaming it's putting a wall up in front of you which should add more resistance, but yah, if you can get it to get the air flowing right over your helmet that should help both a lot.  Maybe a bit of an angle on it too so it's n ot just a flat slam but a taper over the top?

Aaron

[lunarx]

Guess you didn't try the Zero CenterStand?
I found it lacks leverage, to lift the bike.

Anyone tried the T-Rex CenterStand?

I have the Zero [MRA] Touring Screen.
It does require you to tuck, just a bit, to avoid the helmet buffeting.
It’s mostly a highway piece, as you do get extra noise on street (un-tucked).

I installed w/o the Perimeter Molding.
Would that molding improve deflection?
or
Is it just for negative cosmetics?

[Specter]

I would think the perimeter molding would not help much.  The buffeting seems to be from the face shot of the air, you need to get it up and over your helmet.  The perimeter/siding, well would just add a bit of turbulence  Id think.  Are you getting hit on the arms by air deflected around too?  If so then they might help get it past your arms but it will still swirl a bit once it clears the screen.  Aerodynamics unfortunately are not as simple as they look to be.

The only way to know i honestly have to say is to try it, and what may work for you may not for me.

[SwampNut]

I clearly said I expected OEM to be expensive.  I never thought otherwise.  But I *do* expect quality, because that's been the case with all other bikes I've owned.  This is a new shitty experience.  I would not have given a damn if they were good, because I'm willing to pay for good.

The bike is more efficient with a tall screen because it should encourage clean flow, where your body is otherwise creating dirty air.  Aerodynamics is not just about how much air, but how well it flows.  Zero claims a 10% improvement at highway speeds.

I just got the tall seat, which means my head will be in a different position.  So I guess I need to try the screen again.

I have no need for a centerstand, so didn't even look at it.

[Specter]

But I could put up a brick wall too, and the airflow would be forced to go up and around your body too.  How well improved it is remains to be seen.  If you are going for 'up' though Id want to at least get it up over my head so the airflow is not blasting in your face, it will be a smoother ride and well, airflow will be better flowing, especially at higher speeds so the helmet is not smashing against your face, it will be more comfortable.

Aaron

[Richard230]

I have had good luck in the past controlling air flow with a cheap Chinese clip-on "wind deflector", many of which are sold on Amazon.

[SwampNut]

I have had good luck in the past controlling air flow with a cheap Chinese clip-on "wind deflector", many of which are sold on Amazon.

Same here, and I had one, so I tried it.  Never found a position that helped.