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[Edipo76]

Hi everyone, I have a 2015 Zero FX with 12,000 km that I use very little lately. it is equipped with 2 batteries and a few years ago under torrential rain and with a cold battery, it happened that the bike suddenly went to zero soc and stopped, while a few seconds before it was around 30% soc

then I put it on charge and it started to rise to 1%, then 2% and so on and when I was around 20% I stopped charging because it was already enough to get me home, when I turned it back on it showed 70 % SoC, just as if half the battery had been deactivated and then reactivated.

he hasn't played this joke on me for years, but as said I don't use the bike much, then yesterday it happened again. it seems that the problem occurs when it is cold, while when it is hot because it is used or recharged everything works normally.

What could it depend on and how to resolve it? Has this happened to anyone else too?
in terms of autonomy compared to 2015 it seems almost unchanged: yesterday I took a reference that I had taken 8 years ago and in which I arrived with 84% of SoC, and yesterday I also reached 84%. Thank you

[Curt]

Your next step might be to use the app to email the bike's logs to yourself, then upload them here or try to decode them into text yourself. The log parser code is at
https://github.com/zero-motorcycle-community/zero-log-parser
Or search around this forum, as I think there is a web site you can upload the logs to that will decode them into text. Then correctly interpreting the text is another matter.

[Edipo76]

hi, but could it be a bad contact on one of the two batteries? I noticed that when I drill the holes it makes a lot of hair, you can actually hear it slamming into the support. Doesn't maybe moving around a bit lead to having a false contact every now and then? Because the autonomy drops by 50% and then goes back up by 50%, so it is precisely one of the two batteries that comes and goes.
Thank you

[TheRan]

Does the bike actually run if you just disconnect one of the batteries though? I thought the modular ones needed a blanking plug in place of the second battery.

[Edipo76]

I don't know, I've never actually tried it, but I read from the manual that the bike is designed specifically to run on one battery while you charge the other one, and then do the swap (designed for motocross, even if the cycling is not up to par)

[Curt]

Your blanking plug should be strapped under your seat above the batteries.

If you run the bike properly with one battery and the blanking plug, I would assume the range meter scale recalibrates to 0 to 100%. After all, they sell bikes with one battery, and it's not going to read 0 to 50%.

Without the blanking plug, the bike won't run. But who knows what happens if the battery disconnects once it is already running. When your bike is working and powered on, you could try popping out one of the batteries and see what happens to the range meter. I'm unwilling to try such a sketchy thing on my bike.

You could run with only one battery for a while, then run with only the other battery for a while, and if a problem happens with one of the batteries, try the other battery in the same slot to see if it's the slot or the battery.

Getting the logs is still the best first step.