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[trumphair]

Yes good point. I checked the old blackened fuse with my multimeter and it still works (as do the new ones). I also checked all the fuses in the box and they all work.

SO, it's something other than a fuse.

[DonTom]

Went to ride my Eva today and it was a brick. No screen, no blinking lights, nothing. When I plug it in, the light on the charger is indicated but no fan/sound coming from the Ribelle. Any thoughts? It's a 2022 with about 700 miles on it. Charge was 80% when it was unplugged a few days ago.

Does your bike use a key or is it keyless?


-Don-  Reno, NV

[trumphair]

It's keyless.

[DonTom]

It's keyless.

Have you tried to use the fob as passive? Take the battery OUT of the fob, see your owner's manual to see where to put the dead fob at the bike to start it. It should start with a dead fob if you follow the instructions.


I do not own a Ribelle, so I cannot give the instructions for it. But I have used my fob with the fob battery removed on my Experia, just to make sure it works.  And it does.


On some bikes. a weak battery in the fob will even prevent a PIN number from starting the bike. Won't even ask for the PIN. Happens every time on my Harley.  A dead battery is often more reliable than a weak battery in a fob.


A weak battery in a fob does very weird stuff. Your problem could be this simple!


Other things you can try, is a pin number with the fob way out of range of the bike.


Or change the battery in the fob with a new one.


But I think the dead fob (no battery) is the most reliable test, if your bike can start three different ways as my Experia can.


See the thread I started here. Everybody who owns a keyless should know this stuff. Regardless if car or motorcycle. And in at least some vehicles, the half-working fob will cause issues. That is why I say remove the fob battery to make sure it canNOT work as active.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[Specter]

With low ampere fuses / sub amp rated fuses, you really should use the ohm function to read them, and expect they may actually read a few ohms at times, not a dead short.  this is because they are so thin.

using the continuity test / tester to test them, because of the current some of the cheaper meters use, the current the meter sends thru to test the fuse...can blow it.

Aaron

[trumphair]

I was able to contact Energica and they had me test a couple of things including the inline fuse. They had me test the inline fuse circuit and it's reading zero volts (should be 9V) so it appears there is something wrong internally with the battery pack. I'll update when I get more information.

[DonTom]

I was able to contact Energica and they had me test a couple of things including the inline fuse. They had me test the inline fuse circuit and it's reading zero volts (should be 9V) so it appears there is something wrong internally with the battery pack. I'll update when I get more information.

Be sure your ground is a real ground. I cannot remember if the Energicas use the frame for the ground or not for that circuit. If your negative is not on the real ground, you will get no voltage reading.


"Floating grounds" are common in EVs--means the frame is NOT the negative connection.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[DonTom]

I was able to contact Energica and they had me test a couple of things including the inline fuse. They had me test the inline fuse circuit and it's reading zero volts (should be 9V) so it appears there is something wrong internally with the battery pack. I'll update when I get more information.

Did you try playing around with the fob as I mentioned above?  Did you explain to them your bike is the keyless version? Or did Energica rule that out for some reason I didn't hear about?


There really is not much this problem can be caused by, to start the bike when the contactor is not yet closed. It rules out a lot of things. But it does not rule out the fob and that inline fuse circuit.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[trumphair]

They instructed me to ground via the motor or inverter case -- I tried both with the same result.

They are aware it's keyless. I did try the various fob tactics with no success (I was doubtful of the fob being the issue just based on the behavior, or lack of behavior, when plugged into the charger).

The message I got from Energica was that if I'm getting zero volts on the inline fuse circuit, there is an internal fault in the battery and I'll have to bring it in. I don't have a way to transport it the six hours to the nearest service center myself so I'm getting shipping quotes. It's still under warranty mercifully....

[DonTom]

They instructed me to ground via the motor or inverter case -- I tried both with the same result.

They are aware it's keyless. I did try the various fob tactics with no success (I was doubtful of the fob being the issue just based on the behavior, or lack of behavior, when plugged into the charger).

The message I got from Energica was that if I'm getting zero volts on the inline fuse circuit, there is an internal fault in the battery and I'll have to bring it in. I don't have a way to transport it the six hours to the nearest service center myself so I'm getting shipping quotes. It's still under warranty mercifully....

Oh, yeah. I forgot the fob should not affect charging. Anyway, it looks like you and Energica have found the problem.


-Don- (Charging my Experia here.)

[DonTom]

They instructed me to ground via the motor or inverter case -- I tried both with the same result.

They are aware it's keyless. I did try the various fob tactics with no success (I was doubtful of the fob being the issue just based on the behavior, or lack of behavior, when plugged into the charger).

The message I got from Energica was that if I'm getting zero volts on the inline fuse circuit, there is an internal fault in the battery and I'll have to bring it in. I don't have a way to transport it the six hours to the nearest service center myself so I'm getting shipping quotes. It's still under warranty mercifully....

OK, it's the lack of voltage to that inline fuse. But that does not totally prove a battery problem.


Before you ship the bike out, check as much as you can for possible reasons besides the battery. IOW, check the crimps on the fuse socket (I have seen only the insulation crimped on fuse sockets, that worked for a while perhaps because of a single strand of a wire making the connection just for a short while). And also check as far back as you can to the input of that fuse.  Check any connections that you can get to on that line. Sometimes poor crimp connections can be found by hand, as the wire will be looser at the fuse socker or wherever.


And wiggle thigs around a bit and see if it's an intermittent problem.


Or is this the lack of voltage going to that inline fuse a known battery issue @ Energica?  This is the first I heard about it.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[trumphair]

Just an update, Energica had the bike picked up today and they are going to do the troubleshooting/repair and send it back to me (hopefully soon before it snows!). A+ so far on customer service.

[SwampNut]

Just an update, Energica had the bike picked up today and they are going to do the troubleshooting/repair and send it back to me (hopefully soon before it snows!). A+ so far on customer service.

That's excellent customer service.

You may not have anything that can tow it, but everyone should be aware that U-Haul rents a really fantastic motorcycle specific trailer for only $15/day.  That's how I picked up my Zero 300 miles away when I bought it.  Towed it with our Tesla.

[Specter]

I'll have to keep that in mind Swampnut, I was looking for ways to tow my bike to the track until I get my 'Master Lab' set up and all, which will be some months yet, as I will be installing a complete 60+ KW charging system, batteries etc etc in it.  Yes I do have an enclosed trailer but it's kind of a PITA right now getting the bike up/down in/out of it and tied down without any help, so a drive on like that, yes there IS a god

In the meantime a quick and easy on / off for the bike will work wonders.

Aaron