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[marvin28]

Hi there,

Can I ask for advice please...

My Eva Ribelle has been stored in my garage since last ridden 9 months ago. It was plugged in to the charger and (I believe) in LPR mode throughout.

I came to ride it again this week now we have some good weather. It will not turn on. It has keyless start and I've tried with the main key (after replacing the battery) and green key. There is NO red blinking light on dashboard.

I've tested voltage at fuse 7 (keyless ignition) and get 0V. The little glass fuse is intact and I get 0V reading there too.

When I re-plug the charger in, it says it is waiting for the EV. Nothing lights up on the bike,

The bike is within battery warranty. The authorised dealer I purchased from (Not Your Average Bikes) is no longer in business.

What can I try next myself?

Thanks

[DonTom]

Hi there,

Can I ask for advice please...

My Eva Ribelle has been stored in my garage since last ridden 9 months ago. It was plugged in to the charger and (I believe) in LPR mode throughout.

I came to ride it again this week now we have some good weather. It will not turn on. It has keyless start and I've tried with the main key (after replacing the battery) and green key. There is NO red blinking light on dashboard.

I've tested voltage at fuse 7 (keyless ignition) and get 0V. The little glass fuse is intact and I get 0V reading there too.

When I re-plug the charger in, it says it is waiting for the EV. Nothing lights up on the bike,

The bike is within battery warranty. The authorised dealer I purchased from (Not Your Average Bikes) is no longer in business.

What can I try next myself?

Thanks

I wonder if that bike also has the very hidden fuse that is not mentioned anywhere.  See my thread here.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[marvin28]

Thanks for the reply. Yes my Eva does have a 315mA glass fuse. In this case they had taped it into the wiring harness close to the main fuse block. The fuse tests OK with a multimeter. I've tested the voltage between the "engine block" and each side of the fuse holder but get 0V.

I've had a feel of the other taped-up wiring around where you pictured and can't find another fuse holder in there.

Thanks for replying, though, as I'd already seen another "won't turn on" thread where that fuse was to blame.

I'm at a loss for what to try now.

[DonTom]

Thanks for the reply. Yes my Eva does have a 315mA glass fuse. In this case they had taped it into the wiring harness close to the main fuse block. The fuse tests OK with a multimeter. I've tested the voltage between the "engine block" and each side of the fuse holder but get 0V.

I've had a feel of the other taped-up wiring around where you pictured and can't find another fuse holder in there.

Thanks for replying, though, as I'd already seen another "won't turn on" thread where that fuse was to blame.

I'm at a loss for what to try now.

There must be voltage at that fuse on one side, even with bike off and not charging. So you're close to finding the problem--maybe. I cannot remember if that circuit uses the frame for the ground. I do not remember; it could be a floating ground.  But IIRC, the voltage at that fuse is what gives the power to turn the bike on when the switch is off. Won't charge, bike won't do anything without the voltage from that fuse.


Check the wires on the fuse holder itself. I have seen such where it is really only crimped on the insulation.   


I expect you're very close to finding the problem.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[DonTom]

One more thing. When I get to where my Esse Esse 9 is located at my other home, I will check to see if the frame can be used as ground to measure the voltage on that fuse. And I will post here what that voltage should be.


That will be in two to three days from now.



On my SS9, I now have that fuse where it is very easy for me to check without taking the bike apart.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[Demoni]

If there is no voltage at the glass fuse there are a few other causes for the bike not turning on. The issue may be: the wiring between the fuse holder and the battery, the PSU inside the battery or your battery voltage.

Just for reference when you are measuring voltage at the fuse holder, where are you connecting the other probe? You needs a ground reference, I normally use the inverter case.
To confirm the wire supplying power is not damaged unplug the 16 pin Molex connector from the battery, it's located under the left side tank cover. There is a white locking tab you need to lift up before you can depress the latch.
You will need to use a thin probe or a jumper (paperclip) to access the pins of the connector. Use the below diagram to locate pin #8, it should have continuity with the fuse holder (probe both sides).
If you have continuity you can also measure for voltage at pin #8 of the battery connector. The circuit normally puts our 9V.
https://tools.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/334721606_sd.pdf

The next step will be to get in contact with your dealer. Checking the PSU and the pack voltage when the bike will not power up requires access to diagnostic software.

[Specter]

Also be careful when testing to see if the fuse is good.  I have seen some of the cheaper continuity testers, put enough current thru the fuse when testing very low amperage fuses, to actually blow them with the testing voltage /current.   180 mA fuses,  250 mA fuses.  315 is close enough it might be at risk too.

Always check both sides of the fuse, not just voltage across it, and being such a small value, it's not always going to read zero Ohms either, Ive seen some fuses read 4 or 5 ohms and they were good, the high reading was because they were for such small current.

Aaron