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[DonTom]

I have never seen this 2K thing happen on my 2020 SR/S. I plugged into a 6.6 Charge Point Charger at Chiriaco Summit just today at 91% SOC and it went right up to 5.8K like it always does but not for very long as it starts to cutback the amps around 95%. Don, weren't you just here at the Salton Sea in your RV or am I thinking of someone else? If it was you, where do you stay?

I try to not call those chargers, as they are only an AC supply as is an AC outlet inside you house. It feeds the charger in your bike. That's to avoid confusion with the real Chargepoint chargers (DC-CCS) that bypasses the charger in your bike. IOW, chargers can only put out DC, but usually take in AC.  J-1772 and Tesla Destination stations are AC to feed your charger inside your bike so it can put the DC on your battery.


But that is not why I am writing this 2nd reply to you.


Plugshare shows nothing at all near Chiriaco Summit. If there really is a charge station there, please add it to Plugshare.


Whops, disregard it was just very slow to show up on my computer. I now see two locations there. Are you "Garry" who checked in on Feb 21 here?


-Don-  Reno, NV

[electrictwowheeler]

Yes, That is me. Of course they are not really chargers but they are charge stations I suppose or charge points because you do charge there. I have given up on correcting people and just use the incorrect term. Lazy maybe. Like the charge cord you use on 120v. It's not really a charger at all but people call it that because you use it to charge the car or whatever you have. EVSE is such a meaningless term too. I trailered the bike down from Portland OR for a few months of avoiding the rain and cold. I suppose we are a bit off topic, ha ha

[2020_SRS_Commuter]

Looking today the chargers have 5 wires going in, in total. 3 big ones, maybe 8 gauge or something like that. Those are for power in no doubt.
There are also two small wires, a blue and a white, that I assume are for data. Enable the charger, tell how much current to draw, stop if battery overheats, etc.  I experimented by disconnecting those two and charging at home on 240v.

With both connected I got the usual level of charging for home, but with one connected I got a new level I hadn't seen before, 2.9KW. I didnt try it with 120v. I verified the disconnected chargers fans didn't do the usual spin up when they first plug in. A banner appeared, Error: Charger Not Connected, then disappeared.

So.... even if my work does not fix the chargers, I think I can work around it. I'm going to install in the under tank storage bin two dual contact switches. They will be in series with these blue/white wires to the chargers. I can then enable/disable either charger. That way it draws a low enough current that this problem doesn't occur at work, whatever it is. I'll alternate chargers each week to even the wear on them.

The connectors for the wires that bring this data to the chargers are Deutsch DTM04-2P , the female, and DTM06-2S, the male.  learned these are quite common and there are knockoffs on Amazon that are super cheap.

Using the switches, connectors, and some wire I can make something that plugs directly into the harness without otherwise modifying the bike.

Im assuming it does not damage the chargers to have voltage present on the input side if they are not turned on. Hope Im not wrong about that.

[2020_SRS_Commuter]

Heres the extra cable in there for the "Charge Tank" option, showing those wires and connectors.

A label on it says

56-08122 REV02 ACCESSORY CAN HARNESS

[2020_SRS_Commuter]

Hey just to finish up, my "solution" worked. I doubt anyone else will ever want or need to do this, but you can indeed disable one charger to limit your charging session to 3KW draw. As long as I do this at work, there is no problem. Charges just fine at the 3KW rate.

[2020_SRS_Commuter]

Here are the switches. I used the same 20ga wire, same colors, and cheap imitation Deutsch connectors.
The reason the storage is so shallow is because I put a false bottom in. Underneath it are tools for patching tires, a pump, and a spare belt.

[DonTom]

I will resize those for this forum:

[DonTom]

Hey just to finish up, my "solution" worked. I doubt anyone else will ever want or need to do this, but you can indeed disable one charger to limit your charging session to 3KW draw. As long as I do this at work, there is no problem. Charges just fine at the 3KW rate.

Doesn't the control pilot work for that?


My external chargers ignore the pilot signal so I do this here.


-Don-  Auburn, CA

[2020_SRS_Commuter]

Thanks, the pics do something weird here when I try to resize them to fit. IDK why.
I don't know what a control pilot is.
 

[DonTom]

Thanks, the pics do something weird here when I try to resize them to fit. IDK why.
I don't know what a control pilot is.

Set your camera to the lowest possible resolution. But these days, some will not even go that low. Then you can resize them in Windows 10 by using "edit" & then "resize" IIRC. I use Windows 11, which is a little different. I use a free windows 11 program to do it. Most photo programs can resize.


To be non-technical, the pilot signal originates in a J-1772 station and sends a signal to your car's charger to prevent it from asking for more power than the J-1772 station can handle.


If there were no pilot signal, you would overload the J-1772 station if you have a 12 KW charger in your EV but connect to a seven KW J1772. That will blow a fuse or CB in the J-1772 station.


The pilot signal tells the EV to reduce its charger power to whatever the J1772 station can handle. IOW, it tells your 12 KW chargers in the EV to reduce their power to 7 KW or just below 7KW to be safe. Your 12 KW EV charger then becomes a 7KW charger or slightly less.


But for those who want the tech stuff, see here.   Read about connector pin 5, "CP" about a third down the long page where it says "properties" and then "connector".


-Don-  Auburn, CA