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[BenderEmf]

I have a 2017 SR with a charge tank.

The other day when I went to plug it in to a 120v outlet, the plug sparked brightly and I could smell that something in the bike had burned. The bike was keyed off and now it no longer "wakes up" upon plugging in to charge.

Luckily, if I key the bike on while it's plugged in, it does charge, so the charger itself has not died.

Today, I plugged in a J1772 plug into the charge tank, hoping that I'd get the 3.6kW of charge, but I only got 2.2kW. I'm guessing that means that the charge tank engaged but the belly pan charger did not.

I assume the two issues are related. I'm assuming there's some communication module between the belly pan charger and the rest of the bike that has burned out, but I don't know for sure.

Given the symptoms, is it possible to identify the failed part with confidence? I'd be happy to replace the part myself, but I'm not familiar enough with the bike's internals to diagnose the issue.

Thanks for the insight and advice!

[Richard230]

It sure sounds to me like what happened when my 120V/240V on-board belly charger burned up.  Photo attached.

[Kill3rT0fu]

This seems like such a common problem. Almost seems like it happens to all S models at some point.

[DonTom]

I have a 2017 SR with a charge tank.

The other day when I went to plug it in to a 120v outlet, the plug sparked brightly and I could smell that something in the bike had burned. The bike was keyed off and now it no longer "wakes up" upon plugging in to charge.

Luckily, if I key the bike on while it's plugged in, it does charge, so the charger itself has not died.

Today, I plugged in a J1772 plug into the charge tank, hoping that I'd get the 3.6kW of charge, but I only got 2.2kW. I'm guessing that means that the charge tank engaged but the belly pan charger did not.

I assume the two issues are related. I'm assuming there's some communication module between the belly pan charger and the rest of the bike that has burned out, but I don't know for sure.

Given the symptoms, is it possible to identify the failed part with confidence? I'd be happy to replace the part myself, but I'm not familiar enough with the bike's internals to diagnose the issue.

Thanks for the insight and advice!

Yep. The belly pan charger provides the signal for the contactor closing for when the key is out. If it craps out totally, you will have to keep the key on to use your charge tank. Also, the belly charger is around 1.4KW, so that is why you were 1.4 KW low with the J-1772.


No, do not waste your time trying to repair the OBC. Almost always when one part shorts out (very common) it takes about fifty other parts with it and burns the board up and everything. And that is why the big spark at the outlet. A short in the OBC is causing excessive AC current to be drawn along with no DC charging output.  It's a switching power supply and that is just the way they are. You will have to replace the OBC.


It is best to never use 120 VAC on the OBC. Use 240 VAC if possible. The OBC is more efficient when using 240 VAC which means less heat in the charger.


I almost never use 120 VAC with either of my Zeros--no charger issues yet. It can still happen, but a little less likely.




-Don-   Auburn, CA

[CagivaRider]

"It is best to never use 120 VAC on the OBC. Use 240 VAC if possible. The OBC is more efficient when using 240 VAC which means less heat in the charger.
I almost never use 120 VAC with either of my Zeros--no charger issues yet. It can still happen, but a little less likely."

Does this mean you use a level 2 charger with the dongle between the charger and the 110 port on the Zero?

[DonTom]

"It is best to never use 120 VAC on the OBC. Use 240 VAC if possible. The OBC is more efficient when using 240 VAC which means less heat in the charger.
I almost never use 120 VAC with either of my Zeros--no charger issues yet. It can still happen, but a little less likely."

Does this mean you use a level 2 charger with the dongle between the charger and the 110 port on the Zero?

The "110 port" on your Zero will accept 240 VAC. You will still be charging at the same low rate of ~1.3KW, so no difference in charge speed. But the OBC is more efficient with 240 VAC, so less current and less heat inside the OBC as you charge.


The way I home charge my 2017 Zero SR  is normally my Tesla Wall Connector to a Tesla-Tap to as many chargers as I want up to a total of 10KW. I have both Elcons and DeltaQ's that I can use at the same time. I use the OBC as one of the chargers.


When on the road, I bring the two 3.3 KW Elcons and charge at close to 8 KW by adding in the OBC. I leave the DeltaQ's at home as they are too large to bring for such little added power.


-Don-  Auburn, CA

[CagivaRider]

Thanks for the information.

[BenderEmf]

So the consensus is that the entire charger will likely need to be replaced?

Is it this bad boy? https://www.af1racing.com/CALEX-CHARGER-ASSEMBLY-1300W-REG-105-EMC-COMPLIANT-ZM45-08123

That's an $800 part. I could understand if I got into an accident and caused $800 of damage, but for this part to go bad randomly under normal use... oof. I was hoping this was just a stuck $30 relay or something.

Regardless, I appreciate the insight and advice, thank you to everyone who has weighed in.