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[Alan. Yes THAT Alan]

I recall Stanelie saying that he removed the front wheel, then tilted the battery's shelf forward to slide the battery off.

  I got my front wheel off, plus everything that's under the battery. But it looks like if I loosen the two front bolts of the shelf, the back of the battery will tilt upwards and jam against the bottom of the frame.
 Do I need to take the motor off, too?

[Alan. Yes THAT Alan]

Ah. I think I found out the trick. Turn the motorcycle upside down, wrap a strap around the battery, and just lift it up.

[Alan. Yes THAT Alan]

I'm stuck. It looks like some of the wires inside my Zero battery are just strapped on the outside of the cells, and not connecting to either pole of the cells. Does anybody know what these wires do and how I re-attach them to the Nissan Leaf cells?

  Also, before I go start tearing this apart any further, I'd like a second opinion:
  I have not had this battery on a charger in about 2 months. Yet you can see that, after all that time, the batteries are still holding 56.2 volts. All of the posts I've found are from people whose batteries were obviously bad: either they wouldn't charge or they wouldn't hold more than 5 volts.
 I'm not 100% convinced my Zero batteries are bad.

[stanelie]

Each cardboard tube contains two cells (3.7 volts each) in series. The connector you circled is the connection between these two cells, for the BMS to interact with (to balance the cells individually).

56 volts is the nominal voltage of a fully charged system of 14S. If the cells are healthy, this is a fully charged battery pack. If the cells are damaged/old, the voltage will sag as soon as you draw some power from the pack. It's hard to tell from just a static voltage reading like this.