Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Regen]

2016 Zero SR Lighting Issue:

Whenever I turn on the ignition, the headlight briefly flashes and then shuts off. No lights on the bike work, but the bike continues to ride normally. Anyone had this issue or know what it could be?

[ESokoloff]

2016 DSR plenty of times but the condition doesn’t last long enough to trace out what’s wrong. 

I have a 2003 BMW R1150RT that had an intermittent total loss of power that I ultimately traced to the main feed wire to the ignition switch to occasionally have an open.
It was caused by insufficient wire play (room to move full turn lock to lock as well as full suspension travel).

[Regen]

I've heard of the entire 12v system failing on zero bikes. But I just hope the specifics of this scenario can narrow down the issue. That specific being the headlight briefly flashes then shuts off.

[Crissa]

Well, aside from basic wiring harness issues - in which usually only part of the 12v accessories malfunction - the 12v comes from the DC-DC board. If it malfunctions, the 12v accessories fail to work properly.

So you probably just need to check the output of that board.

https://zeromanual.com/wiki/DC-DC_12V_Converter

-Crissa

[Regen]

So I just tested all the 12v fuse connections and my multimeter is fluctuating from 0 to 1 volts while the ignition is on. Doesn't look good. Could be a faulty DC-DC board?

[Crissa]

That would be indicated by that lack of voltage, yes.

-Crissa

[staples]

How did you test the fuse connections? I'd expect 0V of potential difference between the two sides of the same fuse. What 12V ground were you using to test against?

[Auriga]

I'd use resistance or continuity to check a fuse. Also worth noting is that non FST bikes do not use the frame as a ground, so you have to measure voltage against whatever ground is included in the harness.

[Regen]

Silly me, I was using the frame of the bike as ground! I will check the continuity of the fuses and check back here.

[Regen]

So I pulled and tested each 12v fuse one by one and they were all fine. I then proceeded to see if I got any voltage between the fuses and a proper grounding point (I tried using the OBDII port's grounding pins as they were convenient). When I tested Chassis ground, I got 0 volts. When I tested signal ground, I got that same fluctuating 0-1 volts.

Diagram I used for those pins: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics#OBD-II_diagnostic_connector

Also, I tested all the 12v fuses IN the fuse box and the ABS fuse. I'm not sure if there are any more I need to test.

[Auriga]

It sounds like your DCDC converter has failed. No lights, dash backlight, or turn signals would support that conclusion. Your bike should run without it, except the ABS system would be out. Replacing it is a pain on those bikes, it's practically in the middle of the bike.

[Regen]

It sounds like your DCDC converter has failed. No lights, dash backlight, or turn signals would support that conclusion. Your bike should run without it, except the ABS system would be out. Replacing it is a pain on those bikes, it's practically in the middle of the bike.

That's what I suspected. And you're right about it being a pain to replace. I can barely even see it after pushing tons of cables out of the way. I'm trying to find a shop that will switch it out for a reasonable price other than the dealer that's nearby that charges very high labor rates. I live in southeastern Michigan if anybody knows of a good place within ~150 or so miles.

[ESokoloff]

I believe that there is a fuse on the inlet of the dc/dc converter that you should check.
Also what enables the dc/dc converter?
Need to make sure that the converter is getting an activation signal. 

[Auriga]

I believe that there is a fuse on the inlet of the dc/dc converter that you should check.
Also what enables the dc/dc converter?
Need to make sure that the converter is getting an activation signal. 

That's a good point, there is a high voltage dcdc fuse(location can be found in your owner's manual) that's worth checking. Input comes direct from your battery, and enable from your MBB. There's a tiny chance it's the MBB, but I've only ever seen it once. So if that fuse it's good, its probably the DCDC

[UlsterZero]

The DC/DC Converter does have it's own short circuit protection, so it is possible that it's tripping out before a fuse can blow.  The fact that the headlight comes on briefly would seem to indicate an internal or external short causing it to trip.  It likely means that the fuse supplying the converter is ok, and the MBB signal is also fine, as the headlight wouldn't come on at all if either of these were faulty.

I would remove all the 12V fuses, except the one for the side lights, for example, and see if they will stay on.  This will check to see if there is maybe an external short.

If the side light stays on, replace the 12V fuses one by one to see which causes the DC converter to trip out.  If the side light doesn't stay on, it looks like the converter is faulty, or has suffered water ingress.  The converter on my 2017 SR did a similar thing after it got wet, however, when it dried it out fully (took a while), it started working properly again.

That converter is still in the bike, going strong almost 2 years later... 

Ulster Zero