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[DonTom]

I did some more testing today and I have an idea what happened the other day when it worked okay with the OBC.

Today, I put some miles on the bike so I went to the Nugget Casino since I had less than 50% SOC. The Nugget is  normally too close to use for testing when I start from here with a full charge as I usually do. I need to be down to around 50% SOC or below to have enough charging time for my testing.

The Nugget also has 16 KW TDSs.

First, I ran only one 2.5 KW Elcon. OBC not being used.  The TDS shut off within a few seconds of four minutes (I timed it with my watch  this time). TDS went red, needed to be reset.

So then, I disconnected the Elcon, waited a few minutes and ran only the OBC.  The TDS still shut off in four minutes in the exact same way!

Then I tried only the OBC again. It did NOT time out at all. It charged for an hour as I walked around the casino.

When I got back, I added an Elcon to it while the OBC was still being used.  The TDS shut off in five SECONDS and went red. Seconds, not minutes. That was one Elcon added while  the OBC was being used. IOW, an instant jump from a load of around 1.3KW to a load of around 3.8 KW.

So then I ran only the OBC again. For at least ten minutes. Did NOT shut down.

So my conclusion is that the OBC alone may or may not work for more than four minutes. It worked okay at USA Parkway where I only tried the OBC alone one time, which made me think I had an issue with my Elcons.

So it does seem to be related to the load and perhaps the 1.3KW OBC is right at that edge where it may or may not work with the 16KW TDS in the J-1772 mode.


But if I really need to use the 16KW TDS I can still do it, but at around 4 to five minutes at a time at 6KW.

But the Energica is fine with it at 3KW, so I still think it has something to do with the pilot not being used when it shuts off.

So far, I have only seen this problem on the old 16KW TDSes.  The lower capacity TDses I have used have all worked without any issues with the same setup.

From here, I think I will just forget about it. I doubt if there is any easy fix for the 16 KW stations.  If I must use them, I will just have to return every five minutes or so as I charge at 6KW. No difference between using 2.5 and 6KW in the time it takes to shut off. But the OBC alone may or may not work, and may shut off in four minutes or may work for hours.

-Don-  Reno, NV

[Crissa]

Who said anything about any standard?

I did.

-Crissa

[Demoni]

Don another light bulb just lit up, your J1772 socket does not have a locking device. It's possible that there is some fault that trips with the TDC at higher current loads when it does not sense a latched connection.

The Energica will charge via AC with a defective lock, however it will fail to initialize a DC charge if the lock is not responding.
You could test this theory by unplugging the 4 pin connector of your Energica's charge port and see if it times out after the 4 minutes.

[DonTom]

Don another light bulb just lit up, your J1772 socket does not have a locking device. It's possible that there is some fault that trips with the TDC at higher current loads when it does not sense a latched connection.

The Energica will charge via AC with a defective lock, however it will fail to initialize a DC charge if the lock is not responding.
You could test this theory by unplugging the 4 pin connector of your Energica's charge port and see if it times out after the 4 minutes.

Thanks for that info. That is something I never would have thought about.

I do have my Energica here. It's usually with me in Auburn, CA as well as it is the main vehicle I use to make that trip, with a FREE CCS charge at the summit rest area in either direction, which is very close to the half way point and a great spot to take a short break.

If that lock circuit is the issue, I wonder if there will be a way for me to duplicate it to keep the 16KW stations happy. Perhaps not, because in my Tesla to 14-50R box, I know some of the wiring and components are inside the Tesla receptacle itself, where there is no practical way to get inside. I proved that by using an ohmmeter on the Tesla plug to wires that went inside and IIRC, I am seeing evidence of a diode inside the plug plastic as well as other things that didn't add up on the several wires going to the  inside of the Tesla receptacle.

I think the 16 KW TDSes are 2nd gen. I hear the first gen has no slot for the plug. I have never seen any of those. The 3rd gen is what I use at my houses and they have no issue with my external chargers.

I do not know if I have used other 2nd gen stations, but so far, I have only had this issue with the 16 KW TDSes.

However, I had no issue here with neither my Energica  nor Zero SR with my the same Elcons. And that is also a 16 KW TDS. Later version maybe?

I have had the issue at three places, Nugget, USA Parkway and I first noticed it here in Miden, NV. August 12, 2020 check-in with my Zero SR. All of these places have several 16 KW TDSes and I have tried many of them and they all have the same issue.

-Don-  Reno, NV

[DonTom]

The Energica will charge via AC with a defective lock, however it will fail to initialize a DC charge if the lock is not responding.
You could test this theory by unplugging the 4 pin connector of your Energica's charge port and see if it times out after the 4 minutes.

If you mean the four pin connector on orange cables  that is held down by a tie-wrap near the thick DC pins of the J receptacle, it works a bit different on my 2020 Energica Esse Esse 9-. I disconnected the cable and tried to charge here at home. It does NOT lock like you say, at least not at first, but the charger starts a DC (yeah, DC when on AC) charge initiation for a few seconds and puts an error on the screen and stops the AC charge.


But in the process, my Tesla-Tap mini came apart and I will see if I can modify it so it will tell the TDS that the lock is being used when it is not.


It eventually did lock and then there was no way to unlock it, because the bike didn't know it was being charged, so I could not get the prompt when I turned the key on. I finally turned off my Wall Connector and that was when the mini came apart. I think it was still locked in. Does the voltage to keep it locked come from the bike?


-Don-  Reno, NV