Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[pyromancy5]

Since I rebuilt a 2014 SR, the original tank was the zipper pouch and the new tank is keyed to a different code than the ignition.

Does any one know of a retailer where I could order the Zadi lock barrel to the code to match the original?

Edit: I changed the title of this thread from "Zadi Lock Source?"  because it turned into a DIY project swapping over the pins.  Write up below:

[KrazyEd]

I Know that early on, the Zeros had a code that came with the keys when you got the bike.
I believe that is long gone. I Believe if you remove the lock and take it to a real locksmith,
they should be able to adjust to match your original key. Haven't done it in years, but,
I have disassembled locks and rearranged the pins to fit other keys. Not sure how
much of a chore this would be on the Zero.

[pyromancy5]

Well the good news is that the Zadi keys for new stuff still comes with the code.  I just don't know how to get the right lock cylinder ordered.  I was able to pull the cylinders from the lock housing.  That was easy, there is a small spring-loaded tab to push in, then the whole thing pops out.  While their the same size and length, the new one has a screw on the bottom end for the tab to lock the lid down, and the older one for the helmet lock has a cam to push the lock pin back and forth.

Since they're the same size, same diameter, and same key blank, I think it may be possible to use the internals to make the swap.

I think this weekend I'll take the old one apart and see if I can get it back together in working order. It should come apart if I bend the crimps off the cap. If it's successful, I will attempt to swap the guts between them.  If it's not successful, I may just have to deal with 2 keys.

[KrazyEd]

I put a 2017 "tank" on my 2016 so that I would have the locking top.
Local Locksmith said that he could make work with one key but never
got around to it. I keep the key in while riding. I have a small ring on
the "tank" key and a smaller ring on the ignition key so that they don't
get mixed up. The rings are small enough that nothing hits anything
else so no scratching or scuffing of surrounding parts.

[pyromancy5]

You got yourself a lazy locksmith 

I spend about 40 minutes swapping the pins over this evening with good results.  I've never attempted lock work before, but I like to tinker. 

Here's a description:


From the back side, with the lock open, depress the spring loaded tab with a small, thing screwdriver and push the cylinder out of the front side of the housing.  On the tank compartment, it helps to have the lock off the lid, and the rubber cap and cosmetic plastic ring off first.  The plastic ring will prevent the lock from coming out of the housing.

Remove the key, and then pry up/ out the 2 crimps on either side of the face of the lock.  Be careful not to mar the edges of the face too much, as it fits snugly into the housing collar and needs to both fit back in and rotate in the shoulder of the lock housing.


Use care when removing the face of the lock as there are 2 springs holding the red key-hole cover closed. These are NOT captive springs.


Under that cover is a brass pin that retains all of the pins and their respective springs (also not captive).  Insert the key to retain all pins and springs, then tap the lock face down to free the retaining pin.


Holding cylinder in an orientation with the pins facing up, cover them with your finger and remove the key.  If you don't hold them down, they may spring out.  Keeping the orientation of the pin slots facing up, use tweezers to remove each pin, keeping track of their order.


Reassemble in reverse order, placing new pins in each slot, then  replace the retaining pin, then the key-hole cover.  Use a pin drift or punch and a hammer to crimp the face back on to the housing.  Be sure the slot is oriented precisely.  I hit mine at a 45 degree angle to start the bend, and a second strike straight down to tighten the fit.  It worked very well.  If your face was bent or flared out during removal, re-shape the edge with careful hammer work.


This shows the pins out of the first cylinder, and the difference between the cylinder with the cam for the helmet lock (2014), and the one with the screw mount for locking tab (locking tank).

[Fred]

If you enjoyed tinkering with the lock and are generally up for a challenge, I can recommend getting into lockpicking. The cheap transparent padlock and pick kits you can get on Amazon, Ebay, etc. are great for getting started.

[DanyEarth]

Wow! Super thanks! I was facing the same issue! Extra tip for adventurers! The brass pin that holds the rest can be easily released/reintroduced by just pushing with your finger the locking tab, there is no need to do anything more. It just falls!

[milezerozero]

Great write up, thank you! For anyone attempting this in the future the term "wafer lock" will help tremendously when searching for parts and tips. Those pins are called "wafers", but otherwise this is an outstanding tutorial!

I just wanted to chime in and help the search algorithms, and also point anyone following this guide toward more easily finding parts to help their project. (locksport is another hobby of mine)

Cheers!