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[Hans2183]

So I've read the belt alignment instructions that I could find. They all confirm that the axle should be centered using the marks on the adjustment blocks.

For reference https://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6921 and https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Belt_Adjustment


However on the SRF and SRS these markings aren't available. I can see the spacing of the wheel axle slot. Is it safe to center based on that?

These are pictures of my current setup after equally adjusting both sides for belt tension. I have ridden 12.000 km over a year and a few months. I.ve tightened that belt about 4 times myself just using quarter turns equal on both sides as per zeros instructions.





The bike has been away twice to fix insulation errors for which I'm pretty sure the wheel had to come out. This is the first time adjusting after that. Not sure if the difference on both sides has been that much before or not.

Tension of the belt is fine now and I can adjust if needed. The problem is that the belt isn't centered on the sprocket. It rides against the outer border.

I would think to fix that I need to move the opposite site of the axle more back. See my clumsy picturing with purple arrows and in purple the exaggerated effect on the sprocket.

But then I make the difference in alignment even worse. What should I do?

[Hans2183]

Okay fixed it 

Not sure how I overlooked that on both sides several times, even filming and photographing it... But there are markings. I was even pointing to them... Or almost.



Also my understanding must be totally wrong since centering the wheel by moving the right adjuster opposite to sprocket forward did move the belt towards the center.

[ESokoloff]

I have a 2016 DSR so a bit different then yours but here’s my writeup.....

2016 DSR (thin belt) 20/30kg tension  (using Krikit belt tension gauge).

Jacking left screw(bolt) out (adding tension) moves the belt to the right on the rear sheave/sprocket.

NOTE: Position belt with a right side bias as it will shift to the left when the axle bolt is tightened.
This movement to the left is approx 1/16”-1/8” on my bike (yours might vary).

After making an adjustment to a jack screw, must pry right side of wheel forward (or smack it to the right from the back side) to “set” the adjustment as the belt tension on the sheave will pivot the axle ClockWise...........
(In my opinion, the right jack screw SHOULD be located 180° &  push the axle CCW thus countering the Left jack screw CW effect on the Sheave/Belt/Axle. )



NOTE: 1/6 turn of Left jack screw causes a 10KG difference to belt tension.

Best to get the belt/sheave alignment sorted first, then go for proper tension.
I shoot for the greatest tension (30kg).

If you don’t have the correct Metric socket (like me), use a 1-1/16” to tension the axle nut to 102NM (75#’).
Recommend first removing the jack bolts & grinding or filing off the markings so it’s smooth & will not gouge the soft aluminum swing arm.
Put a dab of Anti-seize or heavy grease on the jack bolt threads while your at it.





I don’t pay attention to the marks on each side of the swing arm.

[TheRan]

The reason the belt seems to move counterintuitively, opposite to the direction the pulley moves, is because the pulley is angled. If the pulley is tilted to the left (relative to the rear most point) then the belt wants to slide to the left and hit the lip of the pulley. Your first thought would then be that the pulley needs to go more to the left, moving the lip away from the belt, but this just tilts it more to the left and the belt continues to slide left. Thus what you're really trying to achieve is having the front and rear pulleys be parallel (no tilt), not so much adjusting their left/right positioning so they're on the same plane (although that would be ideal).

[DonTom]

Also my understanding must be totally wrong since centering the wheel by moving the right adjuster opposite to sprocket forward did move the belt towards the center.

Unless the SR/S and SR/F is different, you do NOT want the belt in the center. It looks about correct  in the photo. A credit card thickness to 1 MM from the left lip is correct, at least on my Zeros.

-Don-  Reno, NV

[Hans2183]

Thank you all for the feedback. On the rear sprocket my belt was initially running against the side. I don't have a picture of that anymore but that was the reason for me to try to center it.

[Shadow]

S/DS you can have the axle nut hand-tight, align the belt to the wheel sprocket edge, and then torque the axle nut - it will change alignment by about that desired credit card gap.

Can you report if there is a similar effect for SRF / SRS ?

[Hans2183]

Just did a ride in the rain... What a difference in sound. Normally the belt makes a lot of noise in the rain. This time barely any noise. Should have done this 12k earlier :s.

And yes it was a wet ride



I'll check that later on Shadow. I did notice the adjuster on the other side of the bolt moving a little when tightening so I think this might also work on the SR.F and SR.S indeed.